Golf V R32 :: MAF Or Battery Related Codes P0068 / P0101?
Sep 10, 2013
Got a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
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Not real familiar with this code, given that my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and they detected some errors and these codes appeared.
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Installed Forge Twintake on my GTI, CBFA engine code. Have had it installed for 2 weeks now, it was running funny ever since, idling was weird and every time I shifted I felt it through the clutch. Throttle response and acceleration was fine though. Yesterday driving to work the CEL came on, I scanned it today and got P0101 MAF VAF and got P150A idle speed control. I was thinking about cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem but it doesn't seem like that would solve the problem of it running weird. Was also considering reinstalling the stock intake and seeing how it ran then and or if the CEL went off.
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I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
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My 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
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So i recently upgraded to a apr k04 from a apr stage2 tune and I'm getting a P0101 CEL. I've triple checked all my piping, and sensors, everything is nice and tight. I did however install the turbo with a GFB DV+ using the spring. Do you guys think the fact that the spring in the DV+ holds an amount air in the intercooler that it's throwing off the readings with the MAP and causing that CEL? I was going to give it a week or so and maybe see if the ECU can adjust itself enough to the DV+ and hopefully solve the problem. If not then i guess ill check for more leaks, but i doubt there is any. Boost holds real good throughout the whole rpm range...
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I started my a while ago and the rpm needle was going up and down non stop and the car was jumping a slight bit, I plug it into my scanner and got code P0101 what does this mean...
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Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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I had noticed a drop in MPG in the last month (more than normal this time of year), so I started searching on PC. That lead me to testing my 12V battery 4 days ago, with the following results:
No load: 11.8V
Load: 11.5V
Charge: 14.2V
Car started and ran fine, but since the battery is the original on my 2006 with just under 130,000 miles on it, I figured I'd get a new 12V the next time there was a good deal at Advance Auto. No other symptoms until today. After driving around 150 miles on Saturday, the car sat for 3-1/2 days in 25-40 degree temperatures. Started and ran fine today. Did a 5 mile trip, followed by a 1/2 mile trip, followed by a 5 mile trip home.
On the way home, the car lit up like a Christmas tree (appropriate for this time of year). Master warning light, brake system light (yellow; not red), check engine light, VSC light, hybrid system light (no ABS light). Turned it off and restarted and the VSC wasn't lit, but everything else still was.
More info... I finally got around to disabling the back-up beep, and the driver side seat belt warning yesterday, which may have run the 12V down even more.
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My 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
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My 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage had a strange little incident the other day. I have posted this on the forum for these cars and as far as the people on that site know, I am the first to experience this exact issue. I also called the Mitsubishi dealer and they said this would be under warranty if it happened again. They said they had never experienced an issue like this in the Mirage either. Whatever this is isn't a common problem which is good and bad.
I was pulling out into traffic and then there was a sudden momentary loss of power and then power returned. The check engine and traction control light were on. I pulled into another parking lot and when I came out, the check engine light was on but the traction light was off. I put the car in reverse to backup and it stalled. There was an Autozone across the street so I took it over there and had the code read. The P0068 appears to be a mismatch in input from the MAF, MAP, or TPS sensors.
I was low on gas but not that low so I went across the street to a gas station. While the car was filling up opened the hood and unplugged/replugged any wiring connectors going to sensors around the intake and manifold, wondering if it was a bad connection. The car took about 7.5 gallon of gas. These hold like 9.2 gallons or something.
I got in and started the car and there was no more check engine light. I hadn't cleared the code so that wasn't why. Anyway, I have been driving the car like normal the past 3 days with no repeats of the behavior.
I figure that a connector might have been loose from the factory or after the repairs from when I hit a deer a few months back. The car sustained front end and side damage so maybe something wasn't plugged in snug enough after the work.
I guess I could have had a bad tank of gas and was starting to suck moisture or something. I would have thought that would have triggered a misfire or something so my guess leans to a loose connection. The CEL went away immediately when I started the car. The new tank of gas would have at least taken several seconds to have any impact.
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I tried to look for earlier posts re a new squeak that my R32 has just developed, now at 16k kms, 10k miles. Noticed it when I was cruising slowly towards the house, a light squeaking as I went on and off the gas; then found that it did it while sitting on the driveway, so I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or exhaust related. Our roads up here in Ontario have been a bit messy, but don't think I have hit anything hard.
My local VW dealer does not handle Audis and has never seen an R32 except mine when I stopped by to pick up a filter, so I don't want a wasted trip if they do not have the "fix", as they are not that close. After owning it for 7k km I'm getting used to the Haldex and DSG, but wish those paddles did not move with the wheel, probably why VW made it upshift in M?
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I have a pinging (imagine the sound of a trailer's chain hitting the pavement when being towed behind you) sound definitely coming from the front end that is only noticeable when doing 50+. No noise present at any other time....not even a faint noise with the hood up. I was advised to check for play in the tensioner pulley and nothing...feels solid. I did have a Neuspeed power pulley put on about a month ago but did not change out the tensioner. Rotated tires and put in torque arm insert about 2 weeks ago. Just a fyi on what I've done to the car since purchasing in Jan and she has 70k miles. I just noticed this pinging noise 3-4 days ago.
VW guy is going to look her over/drive her on Monday...but I'm concerned about further damage until the problem is diagnosed/resolved.
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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I had the 2010 Camry I-4 in the dealer last week for the 40K service. They told me I needed fuel injector cleaning and a throttle body housing cleaning which I had done. This afternoon the check engine light came on and at the same time the Slip Indicator light came on.
I ran by Auto-Zone to have them pull the code for the check engine light and it was P0101 which AZ says is Mass or Volume Airflow circuit range and listed probable causes as:Open or short circuit condition, MAF/VAF sensor failure, or Faulty ECM. I called the dealer for an appointment Thursday morning and told him the story and asked if the throttle body or injector cleaning could cause the mass air flow problem. He said "probably not". He also told me that when the Check Engine light comes on the Slip indicator light automatically comes on to show that the VSC is not working while the check engine light is on.
My question is, could the cleaning cause the P0101 and if so what info do I need to argue the case with the dealer? Or, are they unrelated systems?
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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P0420 CATALYST EFF BELOW THRESHOLD
P0440 EVAP EMISSION SYSTEM
P0441 EVAP EMM SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW
P0446 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT
P3190
P3191
P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE
P0301 CYL 1 MISFIRE
P0304 CYL 4 MISFIRE
Was driving on highway in mild rain and car started to shudder and stalled. I ran it on the electric motor for a while to get out of traffic so it's fairly drained. Has a year old main battery and a year old 12V Optima battery. Car has 202,000 miles.
The cat code and possibly evap were on all year as check engine light has been on. I get the triangle of death with exclamation point on the right car icon on the screen as well as the check engine light. After resetting the codes the triangle hasn't come back. Haven't rechecked the other codes as it was a borrowed generic scanner.
Just checked the 12V battery at Autozone and they say it's good but discharged. Car won't start and it seems to kill the 12V battery if left to sit. I did the throttle body and MAF clean even though they both looked ok. A little oil in the intake so I mopped it up. Didn't work. I hooked up another 12V battery with jumper cables and it doesn't work. Checked the fuel pump relay and it's ok. I pulled spark plug 1 and it was fine. Check main battery and 12V connections -all fine - tight and no corrosion.
I'll try to check fuel pressure and spark.
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Got these bad codes yesterday on my 2007. Toyota service said the car needs total hybrid replacement for about $3,300. The car has 188K on it. Does this sound right?
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I'm hoping I can get some diagnostic insight into a problem I just started seeing on my 2007 Prius. I have had the Prius for a little over 4 years. Currently around 123K miles.
Starting two days ago I noticed when I started driving that the engine was constantly running and when pulling out from a stop sign just up the road from my house the acceleration was sluggish. I look at the MFD and see the hybrid battery is nearly drained. Unusual because it was blue or green when I parked the night before. Driving for a few minutes, the battery fills back up and driving is normal. The only warning light is for a tire pressure sensor which just started to come on that day. Over the last two days I get the same thing at start up. Hybrid battery is drained. Lights aren't left on over night. Tire sensor light is constantly on but I checked the tires and pressure is good all around. Nothing plugged in anywhere to drain battery. The 12V battery was replaced maybe a year or so ago with an Optima yellow top, so not likely the issue. I checked diagnostic codes in the MFD and came up with a lot of codes:
LAN Monitor EMV:
01-DB 190- 40- 5
01-DE 178- FA-1
01-DB1F1- E5- 4
01-DB 110- 8A- 7
01-DB 178- 46- 3
LAN Monitor NAVI:
01-E3 - 00- F
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