Getting a loud rattling noise from the front of car in Park or Neutral? As soon as I put the car in D/M. I have heard that the transmission is noisy in neutral, but just want to double check.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe and there is a loud grinding sound when the car is in park and neutral. This noise doesn't happen all the time but i would say 50% of the time. When there is the noise it does go away when i put the car into drive or reverse.
View 16 RepliesMy Dad has a 01 f150 xtended cab 5.4 auto. Some of this info is second hand. He had driven it on a trip about 50 miles,when he started it to return he said it did not want to engage, put it in gear and nothing happened. Messed with it a bit and got it to go. was fine for about 30 miles or so. Then it started to make noise. I trailered it home and drove it a couple hundred yards to the shop. It sounds like a very large, very dry bearing, also seemed to catch/lock up then clunk.
With the wheels off the ground you can kick it into neutral and while the wheels are still rolling it quiets down. Also it does it sometimes while in neutral. When it is in park it sounds like stuff is still turning. At fist I thought wheel bearing or rear end until it made noise in neutral and park. The noise in park is not loud, just sounds like things are turning. It is full of fluid. The tranny has always worked flawlessly and still does even with the noise. Where to start looking? Transfer case?
I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.
Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?
My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
View 4 RepliesI have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
Get a rattling sound when in park and when it warms up after a little drive it goes away, When a gear is engaged the noise goes away.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
This just started today while driving home from work, not quite sure how to describe the sound, kinda like a mini jack hammer or rocks in a tumbler (attached video with sound). The weird part is: My car runs well aside from the sound, and the sound goes away when actually driving, only occurs when in park, or stopped. [URL]... (under hood) [URL] ..... (under car)
Opened the hood and jacked up the car to try and find the cause of the noise, sounded like it was coming from the engine, or just underneath (there is a box on the underside, not quite sure what it is, but the sound seems to be louder near there).
On a side note, checked my oil, it's not low. And tried playing around with the pipe leading to the exhaust to see if it was lose - nothing.
Was involved in a hit and run just over 2 weeks ago (front left headlight was smashed, and fender was dented). I'm not sure if that has anything to do with whats happening now.
I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
When i accelerate there is a loud rattling noise from under the car it seems. It sounds like pots and pans banging together. I does not do it at idle only when u accelerate hard.
It does it in all gears even neutral. if you rev the car in park or neutral with your foot on the pedal steady it does not make the noise. only if you push the peddle quick and let go.
What could this be? It started after i brought my car in to DUNN TIRE for a rotation.
I called them and asked for them to check the noise and the guy denied me and said they don't do that kind of work. only tires and brakes!!!!.
i have an 07 jeep compass (only 52k miles). it was making a loud rattling noise (i liken the sound to the noise a penny or pebble makes when its sucked up a vacuum). I pulled off for gas last night and it just wouldn't turn back on. AAA was able to jump the battery and i was able to drive home. Now its dead again. i previously had an issue where the car was stalling when idle (only if it was in drive). I'm thinking the rattling, battery draining and stalling must all be connected.
View 10 RepliesI have an 06 2.0T passat sedan. After a year, I started getting this loud rattling noise from one of the panels in the back everytime I hit a bump in the road. At first, I thought it was the rear tray behind the seats. But after sitting in the back with my son while my wife drove, I realized that it's a panel on the ceiling. It's this long thin panel that runs along the width of the rear ceiling, right along the top of the rear windshield. I'm thinking I could just remove the panel and put some sound proofing material or adhesive foam pads or something.
View 9 RepliesWhen driving there is a loud rattling noise coming from the exterior of the car but when I put on the brakes the noise stops. I'm not sure if its a brake shoe or some other cause...
View 2 RepliesWas driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
View 19 RepliesI got in the car today and started it... I was waiting a few seconds for someone to get in the car (it was in the garage) and as soon as the engine kicked on there was a very very large long rattle noise i immediately turned the car off. Waited again and turned it on same noise.. the only thing I found was a cover under the car towards the front was really loose. ( I haven't hit bottom or anything while driving) but I did have the lighted door sills just installed the other day. But it never made that noise..
btw i have 1100 miles on it..I looked under it and is the black dust protector thing supposed to be loose like if I push on it I can make it rattle..
I hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
View 13 RepliesFiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
So im trying to diagnose my girlfriends issue with her car. When she starts it, the car will make a very loud rattling sound, not really grinding, but like metal on metal contact. Sometimes the sound goes away, but when the car is cold it is a guarantee. The battery light is also on, which was not the case when the rattle first started. I first thought (and hoped) it was perhaps the serpentine belt tensioner as I researched that when it fails it can make a loud rattle sound.
Once replaced, the same issues occurred. So I went ahead and put the old one back on since it was not the issue. Note that the old one and new one both shared the same tension applied to the belt and the pulley was still smooth without issues.
Using a stethoscope to try to determine the location of the rattle a bit more precisely I found the noise to be coming more from the alternator. Weird because I recently replaced it within the last year. I went ahead and removed the tension from the belt and played with the alternator for a bit. The clutch felt good when i used a screw driver to hold the fan and tried to move the pulley. One direction moved with ease while the other direction refused to budge, perfectly normal as I researched. The thing that I noticed that I thought was unusual was the fact that the shaft of the alternator had some play (Video below).
The belt has plenty of tension on it so i do not believe that it is slipping on the alternator. I push the belt with the tensioner engaged and the tensioner does not budge.
I decided to measure the voltage coming off the alternator with the car running and it was at 10.95 which im pretty sure is very low for these cars.