Golf V R32 :: Light Squeaking Related To On / Off Throttle
Dec 22, 2008
I tried to look for earlier posts re a new squeak that my R32 has just developed, now at 16k kms, 10k miles. Noticed it when I was cruising slowly towards the house, a light squeaking as I went on and off the gas; then found that it did it while sitting on the driveway, so I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or exhaust related. Our roads up here in Ontario have been a bit messy, but don't think I have hit anything hard.
My local VW dealer does not handle Audis and has never seen an R32 except mine when I stopped by to pick up a filter, so I don't want a wasted trip if they do not have the "fix", as they are not that close. After owning it for 7k km I'm getting used to the Haldex and DSG, but wish those paddles did not move with the wheel, probably why VW made it upshift in M?
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I hear it while driving. It's intermittent. I notice it regularly when sitting in a parking spot and "rap" the throttle. It does it every time. No codes. What could this be?
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I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
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I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one. I told them to hold off.
Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.
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I have a pinging (imagine the sound of a trailer's chain hitting the pavement when being towed behind you) sound definitely coming from the front end that is only noticeable when doing 50+. No noise present at any other time....not even a faint noise with the hood up. I was advised to check for play in the tensioner pulley and nothing...feels solid. I did have a Neuspeed power pulley put on about a month ago but did not change out the tensioner. Rotated tires and put in torque arm insert about 2 weeks ago. Just a fyi on what I've done to the car since purchasing in Jan and she has 70k miles. I just noticed this pinging noise 3-4 days ago.
VW guy is going to look her over/drive her on Monday...but I'm concerned about further damage until the problem is diagnosed/resolved.
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Got a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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I have a 2011 GTI which has about 46k miles on it. The car is stock other than some VagCom stuff. Over the last few months I have noticed a worsening problem which is getting bad enough to start being annoying. Under very light throttle such as cruising along or rolling off the throttle to shift, the car has a slight miss, almost like it's surging. It happens in any gear, typically around 1500 - 2200 rpm, and I first noticed it actually on the highway using cruise. It seems to happen most before the car gets nice and warm. It has not thrown a CEL, but I have scanned it and found some misfire codes, although I believe those to be from a really rough cold start which sporadically happens maybe once every six months (last time a couple weeks ago).
I have it booked into the dealer but I can't get there for a couple weeks. I don't think it's coil or injector related because it runs fine under high load and high rpm. Fuel filter has maybe 2500 miles on it, always use Shell 91. I really think it's probably carbon buildup but I am hoping the dealer doesn't just give it the old "cannot replicate" since the car is not triggering a CIL yet. It's pretty obvious when you drive it though that something is off. If they play that game I'll probably just go ahead and do it myself.
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Posting this because I saw many other owners with the same problem. Basically after warming up DSG every time clunk into 6th gear on light throttle and D mode, speed around 50kmh rpm around 1400.
You can hear it and feel it on pedal a little. Sometimes is not so harsh sometimes its big clunk. Of course it did on manual mode too if you try shift in the same position.
Original thread here: [URL] ....
Its well known that DSG D mode is set to shift early for better fuel economy but this is not good and really annoying.
I have same problem and its not mechatronic related mine was replaced do to jerkiness on 2 gear and clunking into 6th it is the same.
So I know that fix could be DSG tune/reprogram that many company offer. D mode is optimized and shifting moved to "normal" rpms. A lot of you don't have even problem because your its already flashed with combo etc.
But in my area no body offer DSG tune and i really don't know how to solve this problem... don't want to replace whole gearbox because in all other ways works ok.
I have 2012 MU with i think lastest SW and it didnt change anything on this.
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I had something weird happen to my DSG today. I was accelerating from a stop light in manual mode until third gear at half throttle then shifted to 'Drive' at about 45 MPH. The transmission kept shifting back and forth from drive to manual. The MFD gear display kept switching from S to D every few seconds at light throttle. The mode selector was set to normal on the radio display. I turned into a parking lot, shut the car off, and then restarted. Once restarted, the DSG returned to operating normally. The CEL was not on and did not see any error messages on the displays.
Should I take it to the dealer for inspection? I am a first time DSG owner after 25 years of manuals and overall I like the DSG but it does have some quirks.
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I have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
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I have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with 97000 mile that seems to run fine. Every once in a while when I hammer the throttle a huge cloud of light bluish smoke comes from the back of the car and seems to lose its power until it hits second gear and then all is fine. It doesn't happen all the time but freaks me out when it does. I don't get any warnings on the dash. I just bought this car 3 weeks ago and of course this didn't happen when I drove it.
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I just bought an '08 r32 a few days ago. '08 with 17k on the odometer.
At low speeds (parking lot or stop and go traffic), giving it light throttle, the car lurches as if someone was giving it throttle and letting go.
Is this what is known as the hiccup problem (fuel tank vent) or the mechatronics problem?
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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I have been getting some loud squeaking from my VWR sways and decided to have them serviced at a local shop. The rear sway bushing could be removed and greased without problem. However, the front bushing could not be removed and the best the tech could do was grease the bar and slide the bushing back and forth to try and lube it up. The squeaking became higher pitched but did not go away and it is driving me nuts when I go over small bumps. Did VWR upgrade the parts at any point to make the front bushings serviceable?
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I replaced my 3 mounts a few months ago with 034 track density mounts. Torqued properly.
I noticed the other day, while in the rain, if I let off the gas when going slow, when the car does its little jolt forward, I heard a squeak. Gotta be one of the mounts...
Could it have been the rubber got wet and one of the mounts was simply squeaking when it moved? I noticed it when dry but not nearly as much. Guess I should re-check the bolts, but other than the squeak nothing feels different.
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I have a '13 GTI Autobahn Edition...
40K miles on it, and the rear brakes are squeaking.
I have some new rotors and pads picked out, but i dont know if i have the Bosch or the Girling rear calipers...
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So I'm at the dealership because my brakes have been squeaking at low speeds for the last two months. They measured the rotor thickness and checked the pads and calipers. Their response is that this is a common problem in Texas humidity with the type of brake pads that are used. Apparently almost everyone is dealing with this.
New pads or to shave my rotors are not covered under warranty.
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