Golf V R32 :: Lifted Throttle Suddenly, RPMs Drop Very Fast
Jun 6, 2008
Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
View 25 Replies
I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
View 4 Replies
1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
View 3 Replies
So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
View 20 Replies
I was running some logs to put into virtual dyno and I noticed that on all three the throttle value angle drops down to 33.7% between 3280 to 3380 rpm. Then above 6000 rpm it start to drop from 99% down to 91%. Even though the accel pedal pos is reading at 99.6. Is this normal??
For these I only logged 054, 115 and 031.
View 13 Replies
So yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
View 4 Replies
So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
View 24 Replies
So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
View 11 Replies
I have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
View 1 Replies
So I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback with 208,000 miles. Last Oct I had a complete tune up done on it: fluids, filters, spark plugs, etc. Ever since then, the gas mileage has dropped from getting around 390-400 miles off a full tank to 290-300 miles off a full tank. I have tried carburetor and fuel injector cleaners and nothing is working. At this same time, it also started idling at 1750 rpms every time I start it, dropping down to around 750-900 rpms after I put it in gear. The timing system was replaced about 7 months earlier. So far the repair shops can't find anything wrong. I also just had the transmission rebuilt and it's still idling fast.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
View 15 Replies
A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.
In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.
Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.
Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.
Details of the car are:
94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.
View 1 Replies
Last week I took my baby to AWE Tuning, and had a chip and a diverter valve installed, when i left it felt like a different car it was great! now when im driving its not right, ok ill be in gear and as soon as i get on it and hit like 3thousand rpm it feels like the clutch is engaged and the rpms shoot up fast and the car isnt moving like it should. is it my clutch?
View 1 Replies
so all of a sudden I put my blinker on and it was flashing fast. My first response was to check if a bulb is out, not the case. Five minutes down the road my brake lights stopped working and the 3rd brake light stays on.. when I put a blinker on the rear lights and 3rd brake light and the lisence plate plate lights all flash at once.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Passat and the engine temperature gauge will read 190 normally and then suddenly drop to almost zero, stay there for a while then head back up.
I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
View 2 Replies
Basically I was driving along yesterday, no issues at all. about 3/4 of the way to my destination the car all of a sudden had a distant drop in power, a big vibration ran through the whole car at most RPM's and the engine/exhaust note is now best described as 'the Jetson's flying car'....although not that high pitched.
When I got to my destination, I pulled up to supercheap auto, checked the oil and there was a tiny bit at the bottom of the dipstick, so I topped it up to full but the issue still exists. After I popped the bonnet I also noticed a strong 'burning rubber' smell, but all the pulley's looked to be operational (could be wrong, didn't have a torch on me).
Got home, replaced the spark plugs as I thought a cylinder may have been missing, the first cylinder plug was black and oily, but the rest looked normal. So swapped them all out and the problem still exists, although not as severe.
View 2 Replies
It just doesn't end lately. I've noticed over the last several months, when it rains and I start the engine I would hear an underhood squealing noise. Like a belt or pulley. After the engine warmed up a bit, and the engine bay dried out, the squeal would go away. After a rain about a month back, I opened the hood to listen but wasn't able to locate the exact source of the squeal. Never gave it any more thought.....until this evening. I was driving in our New England Nor'easter in 4 whl drive mode with the wipers on HI, the defroster and blower on HI, and the headlamps and dash lights illuminated, when suddenly the dash lights dimmed about 40%, the blower slowed down about the same, and the wiper speed dropped as well from HI to about low speed. This was shortly followed by an underhood squeal which sounded a lot like the one I've experienced recently. After about 20 secs, the squeal would disappear and the power would quickly return to all accessories! This happened about 4 or 5 times and I returned home and parked it as I did not want to be stranded during the blizzard with a dead truck. The battery voltage gauge needle on the dash never seemed to move so I'm a bit stumped.
View 14 Replies
I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
View 1 Replies
Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
View 1 Replies
