Golf V R32 :: Intermittent Signal Errors
Sep 16, 2010
Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
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2015 Golf TDI s model. When I try to use a SD card absolutely nothing happens. No errors, no reading, like I have put nothing in the SD card spot directly below the CD player in the glove box. On all the radio menus the SD card is dimmed as if nothing is in there. I have tried 4 different brands and sizes of SD cards, different formatting options, different files, still nothing. The iphone cable works fine, so does bluetooth and the CD player. No error codes either with VCDS. I have tried complete resets of everything but no luck.
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A few days ago I noticed a very rough idle first start of the day, this happened twice, then on my way to a show this morning, I lost most power for about 15 miles, boost would not go above 0hg, all the sudden on the highway,BOOM, back to normal...during all of this no engine light or CELS were displayed. Scanned the car later in the day and the only thing that showed up were some random fueling errors, cleaned the codes from the memory and so far so good all is fine!
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Replaced my Crankshaft position sensor and cleared my codes but I'm still getting a P0016 and P0018 error. Car runs fine at the moment. Can't smog and therefore register it till I figure it out. Next step is replacing the Camshaft position sensor.
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My 2015 GTI, Gas engine, Manual Transmission ... Blinkers consistently give me an error code advising me that I need to get the front left, front right, or both blinkers checked and do a rapid flash and make them inop. Turning my car off and restarting usually clears this (almost always on the first try).
Also, the following problem has happened 3 times at varying degrees of severity when the temp has been -30F or colder. I've started my car to warm up, when I've come back to my car after 10-20 minutes I've had 2 warning lights on. One is the little yellow eng light, which my manual says is "Engine control malfunction". And the other is "EPC" which my manual says is also "Engine Control Malfunction", but also governs it to 20mph. After many restarts, or letting the vehicle sit, both lights will come off (not at the same time). 2 of the times there has been a burning rubber smell. Currently it has a battery blanket and battery pad (pad added by my husband after the first time I had the -30 issues, as the battery was low) and an oil pan heater.
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I drove to the mall and left the car there, when I was done and tried starting, it fired up but the rpms started to fall and CEL came on. CEL are:
-16497 P0113 050 Intake air temperature sender-G42 Signal too high
-16486 P0102 050 Air mass meter-G70 signal too low
And after it died it cranks but never fires up. I called the dealership trying to find out where the IAT sensor is but they said it's in the manifold and not sure where. Where is IAT sensor?
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I have a problem with the Bold-Sport camera, but am not sure if it is the radio, the camera, or even possibly a fuse. I get a fault code with vcds that says the rvc control module intermittent/no signal. Once I clear the code, and put my car in reverse with the headlights on, the camera does not work, or works for a second, and shuts off. If i turn the exterior lights off, the camera seems to function normally. As soon as I turn exterior lights back on, camera no longer displays again. I have been having some problems with the rns-510, so am assuming it could be the radio, but am not too sure. The problem I have with the radio is that sometimes not all the interior light hard buttons light up. I will post up a pic as soon as I can.
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2000 B5: new front rotors & pads 3000 miles previous. Now on sharp turns L or R the dash signal 'check discs' appears. Always resets upon restarts. Can be triggered by reversing the vehicle and bumps. Turns less than 90 degrees are usually not a problem. Both front wheels were pulled; no apparent wiring or connector problems. Any quick fixes? How to disconnect this electronic aide? and avoid the irritating "beep". I drive very low miles / year and know how to monitor brake wear.
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Need to diagnose issue with LT signal operation? Recently started experiencing intermittent loss of directional signal when signalling left only. Right seems to be fine. Replaced CB at fuse panel, but no apparent improvement.
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I have an '07 Azera and the turn signal sound is intermittent. The signals flash normally, but sometime I hear the flasher sound inside the car and sometime it is dead silent. Cannot seem to correlate it to temperature or other factors. Any way, I assume as the lights flash with no sound that either the flash or the sound is electronically generated, but cannot be like an old school mechanical flasher. What makes the flasher sound in the Azera and where is it located?
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I have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
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The left turn signal blinker on Toyota works sometimes and not others. It is weird, it seems when the weather is cold, it works, warm weather it works sometimes.
The car is: 2002 Toyota 4-Runner, limited....
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I've been using my HEX+CAN and VCDS a lot lately, and find that a lot of the time I get many communication errors. This makes some things, like looking into the measured blocks on the engine controller nearly impossible. Very close to impossible. Could barely find out that my second MAF sensor was bad (replaced, now.) Is this standard for Phaetons, or is this just me?
I am using Mac OS X 10.8.4, with Parallels Desktop 7 running Windows XP SP3 x86. It occurs with both the latest stable and beta versions of VCDS.
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I was recently driving along the highway when I hit a small dip in the road (nothing serious, i drive over this everyday) and all three of the lights mentioned in the subject line came on. Nothing physical otherwise was noticed, as far as I could tell the car drove and has driven the same since.
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Today I was driving to my office and suddenly my a/c stopped cooling. I reached my office nd parked the car. 5 hrs later I got the car from parking and everything worked fine. Again about the same distance a/c stopped cooling. And 2 mints later, following signs came on and I have taken the pictures. I am wondering what is about? Love prius but don't know japanese.
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When I try to connect to module 9 via vag-com to add DRL and TPS to my menu I keep getting the error on my laptop. How can I fix this? Also how do I remove the acceptance screen from an '06 DVD NAV?
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Got the TPMS light after ~1,000 miles of driving. Checked the pressure on all four and all read around 32psi. Pumped all up a few pounds, held the reset TPMS button in the glove box for 2 seconds with the ignition off. Now about a week later, I have the light on again and all 4 tires appear to be fine visually. What gives?
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My 2006 2.0T Passat is starting to give me the steering column errors. I've seen a couple people saying that the problem was rectified by a new battery. Seeing the car is out of warranty and this would be the 6th winter for the battery, I think it's probably good idea to try a new battery to see if it does the trick before going to the dealer. I've never changed a battery before, so what does it all involve? I have a 12V battery from my back up sump pump that I can use to keep the power up when I change the battery. I imagine that I'll just connect the back up battery to the leads, then disconnect the old battery, pull it out, put in the new battery, connect the leads to the new battery, and disconnect the back up battery. Does this sound reasonable? Is there a bolt(s) securing the battery in place that needs to be loosened before I can pull the old battery out of the bay?
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Got my brand new passat one month now: it's a 1.9 TDI, 105hp saloon. From day one I have been noticing power drops right at 2100 rpm, but not very frequently. The power drop is very very short in time, but strong (you can feel your head going forward goes you don't expect this). Today at 4000km (2485 miles), the power drops happen more frequently. Yesterday I had it 4 times in 125 miles.
- They're always right at 2100rpm, never lower, never higher.
- In any gear (had the problem in 2, 3, 4 and 5th gear).
- Always when keeping round the same speed, I never had a power drop when accelerating.
Problem is that I can not reproduce the problem myself, it sometimes just happens. The vw dealer doesn't find any issues when reading the cpu and doesn't notice it when test driving (test drives are to short).
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2007 GS450h Lexus owner, and have got a few error codes appearing on her They are as follows:
Quote:
P0031 - Powertrain
HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2195 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 Sensor1
P2238 - Powertrain
2) O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit
Low bank1 Sensor1
P0138 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Am I right in saying, these are all just a dodgy bank 1 sensor 1 (engine bay) and possible sensor 2? Is replacing them myself feasible?
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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