Went out this morning - which was one of the first times we've dropped to freezing since I've had the R32. Car started fine - but idling was rough - almost felt like it was surging. Rev'd it a few times, no change. Meanwhile the tach malfunction light appeared. I turned it off and then restarted. No tach light and it was idling normally.
View 2 RepliesWhen coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
View 12 RepliesI was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
View 20 RepliesBut I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
The car runs fine for several miles/minutes, suddenly the tach starts to climb, up a jump, then up again. This is when the engine starts to run really rough and I pull off the road, let the car cool down and make it the rest of the way to work (about 15 miles).
Here is what I have done: Radiator flush and fill; Oil and filter change; Cleaned EGR and replaced gasket; put in new spark plugs; changed the transmission filter and oil; replaced the O2 upstream and downstream sensors; replaced the thermostat 195 to 180; replace the coolant temp sensor.
The check engine light does not come on (except on start-up check sequence), so it is working. Their are no trouble codes (other than when I removed the downstream O2 sensor to check if I would get errors). The cat converter doesn't glow at night, and doesn't rattle when tapped. The resonator in the exhaust does make a rattling sound, but I don't see why that would be the problem.
I am at my wits end. Any clue what I should try next? The water pump isn't leaking.
I have APR state I+ and a VWR intake for the last 14 months. My car normally idles at 800 RPM.
In the last few weeks I've noticed it idling a little rough at ~750 RPM.
Currently on a 1 week mini break, and the P has decided to play up. I have had 6 months of worry free driving before this new issue. I have posted before that the 6 speed in my P has never been the best behaved in auto, a bit slippy and jerky, at times, but also perfect shifts 60+% of the time, but I know others share this issue so not unusual - its usually ok when manually going through the gears.
Upto 110k miles now and on this journey had been about 10miles in on the motorway so fully warmed up. Had cruise on doing about 70 mph. Bascially started being very erratic and surging then dropping quite uncomfortably.
I knocked cruise off and observed that under full acceleration no issue. Under no acceleration (foot off gas) no issue. Only when keeping up with traffic, so partial gas, did the issue occur. I waiting for the next exit and pulled off, and it initially carried on even at low speeds around 30mph, then went away. Parked up. Started it up about 2 hours later fearing the worse, but had no issue since. Kicking myself as I have the laptop but forgot the VAGcom lead.
Rang my VW specialist and he said as there were no MIL lights, the only way to know whats going on is to scan the car, and if it does it again get it recovered, which will mean the end of my break. I will scan the car as soon as I get back, but concerned I could do more damage.
Check tire pressure light appeared today while driving on the highway today. checked all pressure but they all read fine. what could be wrong? Is there something I am not getting here ?
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
View 2 Replies2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
When Idling or at low speeds my engine has been surging. When idling it surges with no changes in rpm's but the car shakes and can bee seen and felt. When at low speeds I also get a surge but the rpms will jump up and down. If I drive with the A/C on it cuts the surging down significantly. I had a friend of mine read out the check engine light codes. The are P0010- CAM POS Actuator malfunction, P0011 Cam pos actuator over retarded, C0300 random misfire, C0700 transmission control malfunction. I looked some things up online and they were saying to replace some cam shaft sensors and etc.
View 1 RepliesWeird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
My car is idling rough and the Service Engine light blinks on/off continuously. I ran the codes and they are P0301, P0401 and P1258. What this could be? I changed the plugs, wires and ignition coils about a year ago. Catalytic converter was replaced around the same time but the O2 sensors hasn't been changed. Could that be the cause?
View 1 Replies2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
So my girlfriends passat is starting to have some problems. It looks like a light show on the dash. When driving it, every now and then (a lot more now) the tach goes dead, and the oil and brake light flash, and it starts beeping. The car also has a ABS light on but that has been on for a long time.
So far I've checked both the oil and brake fluid levels, and checked all the fuses. Everything is good there. It just seems funny that they all go at once. I figure maybe one of the plugs to the cluster is loose giving everything a zero reading? I need to buy a vag cable and software some time that's for sure.
I have a 99 passat that the oil light will flash and the tach is inop then out of the the blue it stars working. was wondering if any 1 has had this issue. I checked the wiring didn't find no bad wires and i tried another cluster same thing.
View 1 RepliesSo as of late, I've noticed something strange while I accelerate at hwy speeds. I'll try my best to describe. Cruising on the hwy at 68 mph in 6th gear at about 3000 rpm. Without downshifting, I press on the accelerator to speed up and the tach (and subsequent engine noise) seems to outpace the actual rate of acceleration.
The tack needle about a second or 2 after pressing the gas pedal moves quickly to about 3300 rpm and then settles down to 3100 rpm.After that acceleration seems normal.I tried it again and same result happened.Later I was on surface streets and tried the same thing but at a lower speed and gear. It seemed to produce a similar result.
My question is, what the heck could be causing this? Clutch starting to go? Car has only 17800 miles. I have a UM Stage 1 tune w/ CTS Turbo intake that has been on for the last 3000 miles. Give or take. I remember burning the clutch 2 times in the past. I don't track or do any kind of hoonage with it.