Golf V R32 :: Idles A Little Slower On R And Fluctuates When A/C Is On
Aug 12, 2014
Lately, I have noticed the idle on the R to be a little lower than normal and it is fluctuating with the AC on. The plugs were done about a year and 10,000 miles ago with OEM NGK iridium, along with the rest of the 80,000 mile maintenance items. I have no engine faults and religiously use Shell 93. The engine has the UM ECU/DSG [spark cut] tune with Milltek engine-back exhaust [no cats/resonator]. Is there something that I am missing that may be the culprit? I need to pull the plugs and check them because with any idle issue I usually suspect plugs but have never had an issue with plugs failing this soon.
Related topic; what spark plugs are people having good luck with the UM combo tune?
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Also its a brand new oem temp sensor
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My fuel gauge fluctuates once I turn the key to Acc, once I fire it up it goes back to empty and climb back to the correct position,
Also once this happens, my MFD starts to act crazy, sometimes it shows nothing, and times gets stuck on the door open screen and my steering wheel controls go dead, if I turn off the car and then on its gets stuck "Volkswagen information" screen.
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My car is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. the car is bone stock, I can not hold boost and it fluctuates all over the place. the dv sounded like a flutter until I bypassed the n249 now it sounds like a steady pssh. car still would only make 4lbs of boost and drop to 1-2lbs after 3500rpm. I pulled the line off the n75 to wastegate and did a pull. it boosted to 8lbs spiked to 15 and held 4lbs, if the tires spun it would spike to 12-15lbs and drop to 4 again. I replaced the n75 today and now will still spike high if I spin, with traction boosts about 8lbs which I believe is stock but then drops to 1-2 lbs then up to 4 down to 1-2 sometimes up to 6, it seems random. I also pinched off the dv to see if that was the problem but same thing.
I'm wondering how my car could lose boost with the wastegate actuator unhooked, I can not find a boost leak(not saying there isn't one, but haven't found one), the car holds more boost with the n75 unplugged and under acceleration, with n75 plugged in it seems like 3 surges per gear?
Car throws one code p1473 its an evap code.
The wastegate sounds like its closing when I pull the rod and let it go, lots of tension on it.
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Driving down the road in my 2001 Jetta GLX VR6 and I slow down as i approach a red light. As I get slower I notice a repetitive clicking sound, i apply my brakes and it stops. So now Im curious so Im driving around doing about 20mph trying to find out what the hell this sound is. I know two things! Its coming from my drivers side front, and when I apply my brakes it stops. It clicks driving straight, turning, coasting with the car in neutral. My steering rack just blew out on me, so driving around with no powering steering and I have a click. I am not troubleshooting all day tomorrow. I don't have any vibrations, or what not.
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OK, when I first got the car in June it needed strut mounts so I got the 034's and new bearings and all was good, recently I noticed just a creaking/knocking type noise, not the same as before. So I checked the bolts on the mounts just in case and they are good. Been reading lately about the subframe and it is leading me to believe that may be it. The noise is more noticeable at slower speeds when just going over slight road imperfections(like small dips) and sometimes I do not hear it at all even over rough roads?
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Ok so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
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So I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
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So today i start my car and the idle was funny for a few seconds, checked to make sure there were no vacuum leaks, everything seemed fine. Then im sitting with the car in park waiting for someone and I feel the funny idle again. It stops then i notice only the light in the window switch blinks on and off about 2 times then the funny idle again.....normal for a minute blinkity blink funny idle....see a pattern. I noticed for the past 2 days the auto down for the pass. window doesnt work either. I wonder if they're related. It hasn't happened again but i haven't drove it much since that happened. Im going out now so when i get back ill update. Ill scan it on monday to see if it threw any codes.
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I own a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI 125hp 6 speed manual with 20000km (same engine, transmission, electronics as a Golf - 1.4TSI 123hp or Audi A3 - 1.4TSI 125hp, in North America you can consider it a poor mans VW or Audi, i prefer Audi LOL).
Ever so often maybe once a month when the engine is cold (usually during cold weather and in the morning) the following happens:
I crank the engine and get a really rough idle that's about 300-500rpm... the engine struggles and then shuts off after about 5-10 seconds and while this is happening the CEL an EPC light are on. after the engine turns off by its self, the next time I start the engine it works perfectly.
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Symptoms as follows: High RPM at idle (1100 rpm), colored smoke ( not white.....maybe blue/gray....hard to tell) from tail pipes during higher than normal rpm. No noticeable plume of smoke during spirited runs either. Only shows high idle symptoms/ smoke once heated up and running for a while. First noticed while stopped and idling for a spell. No CEL and have not ran it for codes. Cold start shows no smoke and normal rpm.
Vacuum showing 18-20" at idle. AFR kinda all,over the place....but nothing completely out of whack. Can't hear any exhaust leaks and turbo still spools up fine. All IC piping intact.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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So I bought a used 1.8t back in august. My second golf, up from an mkiii and I love it. However, the previous owner installed a CAI and being that he lives in the desert, probably never had any issues taking on water. Fast forward to my problem, got caught in a rainstorm, limped it home with the CEL and the traction lights on. it died like three times trying to get it home, but it still would idle when I parked it.
Now I've used the search feature extensively on this problem, and what I've down so far is to take off the intake and reroute it about six or seven inches from the maf, I've cleaned the filter, maf, pancake pipe, and SMIC with denatured alcohol and those are all currently drying. When I took the IC off, specifically the connection between the pancake and the IC, a good three cups (~30oz/850sillyliters) of water dumped out.
Again, my car still was idling when I parked it. Scanned the CEL and got misfires and maf low air codes. Before I started tearing down the intake I took the coils and plugs out and put my shop lights above the valve cover to generate a little heat, maybe make a lil water evap from the cylinders. I live in a pretty arid climate, IE all the water that fell onto my garage floor was gone in 24 hours. Prolly wishful thinking but whatever.
My plan next is to put everything back together when it's all dry, pour a lil oil down into the cylinders, and crank it while the spark plugs are out. Hopefully any residual water will shoot out, along with the oil/gas, and I can go back to enjoying my life.
Also, the intake is hot. I'm thinking any water that made it past the intercooler would've been steam/vapor and I shouldn't need to remove that? Also it seems like it's in a conformation that would force any residual water to drain either into the cylinders or back into the intercooler, so I really don't see any gains by removing and cleaning it
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My gti with 5k miles will be in the dealership 3weeks on Monday! No one has been able to diagnose the problem! I called VW corporate and they told me that the dealer was working with their tech support and engineers.
The problem is has really rough idle were it stalls out. Bank 1 and Bank 4 are misfiring. This is the part were they are stuck. Once they remove the oil cap the car runs perfect! It stops all misfires and idles perfect. They've ran smoke test, compression test, vacuum test. Replaced pcv, high flow fuel pump, intake manifold.
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
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So the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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