Golf V R32 :: How To Get Rid Of Bulb Out Warning After LED Install
Mar 27, 2013
I recently installed the LED euro tail lights with out swapping pins, or any ghetto harnesses. i simply installed my tail lights with the oem harness. Anyways, after i installed the lights, the bulb out warning came on, i got rid of it, but when i press the brakes it triggers the warning light to appear after i vagcomed it to go away. so what is the coding to get rid of it?
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I had KW V2s installed on my R and the shop said they cause the ABS warning to come on so how to code out the alert using VCDS?
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I have read all 11 pages of the led light post, and I am more confused then when I started. I bought Ed's opt.4 lights with the LED's. I bought the light kit he recommended: [URL] .... with H7 harness. I have 2012 North American TDI Golf. I purchased and had installed the Bold eruo light switch with light sensor kit. I had someone install everything for me. They have had trouble finding out the proper codes needed. The issues I am having are:
1: with the above set up, they can not get the light bulb out warning light to go out. I was told that it is due to the light kit purchased above, and the fact that it only connects to the drivers side harness, and not the passenger side, so the warning light on my car keeps saying there is a bulb out on the right side.
2: With the euro switch in the Auto position, I get no DRL's at all. The only way I get that is if I turn the switch to the next position, and then I get the low beams, as well as the LED's, and no fogs. This stays the same day or night with the light switch in this position. To get the fogs as well, I turn the knob one more turn, and pull it out, and this gives me the fogs as well as the low beams and LED's.
My questions are:
1: can I get the LED's as DRL's in the Auto position or in the position next to it, and then have the rest of the lights come on automatically at night via the sensor? If so, what are the vagcom codes I would need?
2: Is there anyway to get the bulb out warning light to go away without putting in a different light kit. I was told by the installer that they had to try a few light kits to get one to work with the coding of the vw, and the kit they use connects with two harnesses(one for each head light, and not one harness for both as my set up is).
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So, I'm not entirely sure if this has been covered, but I dealt with the bulb out warning with the LED tail lights. I am not running the fourth wire. I had tried searching for a while but found no answers. Most conversation about this issue are buried in old threads.
The usual DIY disclaimer applies. In the Central Electrics module (09), access Coding, then Long Coding. You will need to make sure that Byte 19, Bit 3 is checked (Diagnosis Rear Parking Lights Active).
Here is my current coding:
E68D8B6700041500470A0000F000000000918095C000100000 000000000
I have verified all operations (parking lights, brake lights, turn signals [amber]) and no flickering as well.
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Just as the title says, I have had the PIAA bulbs in my DRL for about a month. Today I swapped out the 27W PIAA 7440 with the 21W stock bulbs and am getting bulb out warning on the dash. The stock bulbs appear fine and were working when I swapped them. I put the PIAA back and it works again. It seems like the car has "adapted" to the higher wattage of the PIAA and now thinks that the stock bulbs are too low wattage to be a functional bulb?
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I had my Passat (2006) for a couple of weeks now and this message comes up on the dash warning: "AFS inoperative". The bulb failure light was flashing as well. I have the bi-xenon lights.
The L/H bulb was changed and the warning and the bulb failure light is still there, but both headlights are working now. The major drama is that the lights are now dipped and at night we can only see about 20m in front of the car. The lights don't do the start up dance as normal.
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The ESP light to come on while cruising on dry pavement and then the burnt bulb light to come on. They both stayed on until the engine is restarted. I had 3 incidents with the same behavior so far in a month and they stayed on for the duration of the trip.
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The "Bulb Warning" light came on in my 07 B6 Wagon. Checked all the lights and no bulbs are out, but when I switch to Hi Beams they both come on and then a few seconds later they go off. Need to pull the stalk back and then put them on again, but again in a few seconds they go off and revert to low beams. I have the HID headlights, but the Hi Beams are conventional.
What may be causing this? If it's a bad bulb, is it possible to change just the conventional Hi Beam bulbs myself??
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Why my Phaeton cannot tell me which lightbulb has failed when Mrs AG's Audi A4, which is older, can? It just says check light and more often than not, goes off again after a couple of days as in the latest episode. Am I missing something, or is that just the way it is? I do not have a VCDS.
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I got a "Bulb Out" warning but all the bulbs were working...so I go inspect all the lights on the wagon and notice the taillight is melted and falling apart on the inside! Wtf?? Ugh...!! I've never had something like this before. Is this common? The light still works but its all melted on the inside and the plastic ring on the inside is falling down.... Quick pic...
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I've installed six LED bulbs in the rear of my 2011 Tiguan (brake and running) and now the "bulb out" warning light comes on intermittently.
I don't need to solve this via resistors, new relay, etc. I just want to disable the warning light. Do this can be done via VAG-COM?
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Alright riddle me this my friends. Have an 04 V8 with about 6000 miles. This evening I was leaving a friends house and I turn on the ignition and I get a warning light indicating a bulb is out. Well it was my passenger side main beam! I thought xenons were to last much longer than standard bulbs.
Well anyway I go and get some dinner, and on the way out of the restaurant I hit the button and both lights come on! So they now seem to work fine, but why did the one bulb shut down for a while?
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Got the cornering lamp failure (AFS) warning this morning. How easy this is to replace and what the bulb part number is. Did some searching and found that it might be an H7 bulb. Is that correct? Would like to avoid a trip to the dealer if this is pretty easy to replace.
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I installed some 5K HID's with 35W ballasts and a relay on my 15 toyota camry SE. When I start the system, it says check charging system and once the engine starts it goes away. I initially had 50W ballasts installed but I changed it to 35W as the 50W caused the HIDs to be too bright for my taste.
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Bought the clear replacement lenses for the front door warning lights but I must say I am having trouble trying to figure out how to get the bulb out so I can change it to a blue one.
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I'm having trouble getting the strut back through the steering knuckle. I used the 1/4 ratchet to spread it and get the strut out but I can't get the strut to go back after installing the VWR spring. I've tried speaking with many tools now and it's just so damn stuck. I hope I haven't damaged anything by hammering a wedge into the point where the ratchet is supposed to spread it. After a couple of tries the ratchet doesn't seem to spread it at all.
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I had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
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Is an alignment after a spring install necessary?
Getting my H&R springs installed tomorrow and was curious
[URL]
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I just had a set of VWR springs installed on my 2011 GTI (35,xxx).
I've noticed a very discernible clunk coming from the driver's side front wheel particularly when traveling over a dip in the road (when the spring and suspension is extending). The sound only comes from the one wheel well - the other three sound fine.
I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow (recommend after the spring install). Sounds almost like a bad bushing?
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I finally decided to take the plunge and go with Stage 2 BFI inserts and mount.
Engine Setup (for reference):
EIP cold air
BFI Stage 2 Inserts and Mounts
Recently replaced clutch to brand new stock clutch
TT short shifter
First off, everything feels great. very solid mounts especially when compared to the spongy stock ones. definitely gets the job done.
Here's my question, is it normal to hear a lot of noise chatter coming from the clutch when not engaged? when my foot is on the clutch it goes away, and when i take my foot off a lot of noise starts coming from it. as far as i know, some clutch noise is relatively normal but I'm not sure if a lot is. also, when i start the car, the starter has a deeper, louder, more pronounced tone to it. not sure if that is normal or not either.
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I ordered the bulbs already; I just need to know how you pop out those yellow side markers. Do I have to go under the wheel fender and pop out the cover with the plastic screws or does it just come right off the front of the bumper. Looking for step by step instructions.
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