Golf V R32 :: Hoses At The Windshield Are Chewed Up, Can't Drive The Car
Apr 12, 2011
Was just looking under the hood of the 08 R32 I just bought and noticed that a couple of smaller diameter (thumb size) hoses at the windshield had chew marks on it. Took it to my local shop. The mechanic called me a little later and said that there are actually 3 hoses chewed up, a third is down below, and that there is a nationwide back order on all three of these hoses with no estimate of when new hoses will arrive and it is unlikely that any dealer has these in stock. My mechanic said that he's been around long enough to know that when he sees a situation like this, there will likely be a recall on these hoses.
My mechanic said my hoses are pretty chewed up and the car is unsafe to drive, certainly not for long drives in hot weather. I am taking the car to a race shop nearby to install my Milltek exhaust and they have some ability to custom make hoses. I hope they can do it.
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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I destroyed my front tires about 3 months ago, I thought the tracking was out because the inside of the tires were all chewed up, so I bought 2 new ones and had the tracking done. Well today I took the .:R to the Tire Barn for a rotation and they informed me that there's wear on the inside again.
IWould it prevent any more damage to the tires if I replaced the front control arm bushings and had a new alignment done? Ideally I would like to replace the control arms but I can't afford that right now as I'm about to buy a house.
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I'm going to finally go through all the old rubber cloth shielded vacuum hoses and going to replace them with Samco silicone but not sure if I should use 3 or 4mm hose?
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What's the function of those two white hoses under my car?
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When I drive in the morning , the sun throws a lot of dashboard glare on the windshield ...Its just annoying and bothers me when I see it right in the front of steering wheel on the lower side...Not sure if there is a way to avoid it or "fix" it.
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I recently purchased a new 2013 subaru crosstrek, and noticed an optical variance in the windshield that is giving me migraines ( it feels like my eye is being pulled out through my right ear). I took it back to the dealer and (after several visits trying to convince them it existed) they replaced the windshield. With one that's worse, and now I'm stuck. I can't drive the car in sunlight, only in the dark or on days its precipitating. My husband says he sees it, too. But the Dealer wants nothing to do with me. We tried to find an aftermarket windshield, but apparently, the car is too new.
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I have had recurring problems with the VSC, Trac, and check engine light continuing to come on. I have taken it to the dealership several times, once the said it was because a rat had chewed through a harness. I payed to have the harness fixed and the lights came back on.
My real problem is,I notice that the mouse excuse has come up several times when people take their vehicles in to the dealer.
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I have a 2000 passat. I recently acquired the car and the previous owner installed a cone filter. While driving the filter got chewed up into the wheel well and breaking. The car was running Decent without a Mass air flow but would run rich and sputter obviously. I parked the car at my cousins and decided it would make it home without the sensor the next day.
I proceeded to drive the car home. On the way home the car shut off on the 2nd lane - I was able to get off with the metro courtesy towing. The car has not started since. I checked the following
- Timing belt - Still intact and does not look damaged
- Fuel - I removed the feeder hose from the fuel rail and turn the key and got a huge squirt so fuel is good
- Checked for spark - Pulled out a spark plug and placed it on my coil and grounded the plug on valve cover - NO SPARK WHATSOEVER
- I checked the number 1 wire on the coil for power.
- I used a test light for this (no Ohm meter )
Placed test light on number 1 pin and got a light that dimmed immediately ( seems weak? i would assume it would be high output for the spark plug .
I also tried to find the motronic Power supply Relay. I looked in the box where the ECU is located on the driver side and found 2 relays next to the ecu, a black one , and a grey one ( which one is the power supply replay?)
But the only things that can cause my problem are
-Cam Position sensor
-Power supply relay
-ECU
-Crank Sensor
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Started my car up this morning and it felt like it was running on 5 cylinders and the check engine light came on.
I looked and a Rat had made a nest with foam insulation and chewed through a fuel injector wire.
2008 Camry V6 77,000 miles.
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Click and Clack... When it wouldn't start one day (away from home) he had to keep going back to where it was to try to figure out what was wrong. He came up with a few different diagnoses but came to the conclusion it was the fuel injector inside the gas tank and went online to order one. Once it finally got towed back home, he had a chance to really get a good look and found that all those wires had been chewed and eaten. They're too short to splice back together.
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I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I'm wanting to know if the hoses are the same?
i assume they are but never seen the under hood of a 10.5.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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My son's 98 Expedition has no heat. The radiator and overflow tank are full, there's no air in the system. The radiator hoses get nice and hot but the heater hoses stay cold. We can hear the flow through the vents change when we change the temp control so I'm sure the blend door works fine. Seems like the problem is that no hot coolant is making it to the heater core. So I'm wondering if there is a diverter valve somewhere that could be bad that's keeping the hot coolant away from the HC or if a clogged HC is the only thing that could cause this.
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My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
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I have a 2000 Excursion and it appears the AC lines going into the condenser are leaking. I had a local shop replace them, vac and recharge the system for 96.00. The ac was never really cold, and he used a vac pump and gauges to recharge. He said he thought there was enough refrig in the system for me. I got tired of just cold air so I put a small bomb in the system tonight and woah, I had ice cold air again. I noticed that where he replaced the O-rings, it appeared to be oily again! I went to a friends house and he as the glasses and UV light and we could see the dye around the connections where the hoses bolt to the condenser. We cleaned em off with brake cleaner and will recheck tomorrow afternoon. How odd is it to have the O-rings replaced and then have it leak again? I know he did not use OEM O-rings. I do not think its the condenser, we can only see the die on the fitting and around the flange of the hoses.it is easy enough to replace the condenser and it is not labor intensive. I called the shop and he said it would be about 25.00 plus a recharge but he doesn't know its leaking AGAIN. Should I go and replace the condenser as well? This image doesn't show the lightly wetness around the flanges.... but here it is.
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I've replaced my heater core and blend door in my 2000 and getting ready to button things up. Can I hook up the heater hoses after the plenum top is screwed on to keep the core from moving when pushing on hose connections?
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
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