So my R32 idles high when stopped and I googled it and people said that a new battery fixed the issue. I replaced the battery and it stopped doing it for a few days. Went on a long road trip (1200 miles) and it did it again. Been a few months still does it.
View 24 RepliesAfter changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
View 14 RepliesYesterday as soon as I started my car, I noticed a high pitched whining noise. As I drove, it seemed to stop, but as I slowed down and idled, it came back. After driving a couple miles, the battery light came on, so I turned off the AC, radio, and lights and it went off again, but as I sat at stop lights it would flicker on and off again.
View 4 RepliesIve had my R32 for a couple months and the AC worked fine until the other day. I went on a cruise up the mountains with some friends. Had the AC on until I got off the highway. Turned it off for the spirited drive, nothing crazy just spirited. Temps were only 70-ish degrees. Drove up to the base of Mt Evans road, about 10,750 feet and then back down.
Parked for lunch for about an hour, got back on the highway to cruise home and the AC is blowing hot. I didn't hit anything during the drive, the roads were for the most part smooth, the temp gauge didn't budge. Now the aux fan is stuck on hi. I can park overnight, engine is completely cold, start it up and the fan immediately goes on full blast and stays on the entire time the car runs.
I know VRs make a lot of heat, do they have issues with the AC system? Is this some common thing I should have searched for? I have vagcom and can look around but don't really know what I am doing with it so I don't want to mess anything up. Pics for clicks.....
I was working on the car today and had the battery disconnected. When I was driving the car a few hours later i noticed my horn stopped working. the alarm sound when the car is locked stopped working too. I was hoping it would start working again like the one-touch windows do, but they didn't.... I think I possible popped a fuse but didn't see any when i checked. I really don't want to drive 60 miles tomorrow on i95 without a horn.
View 21 RepliesI have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
View 15 RepliesJust got my 2015 manual Golf GTI last Monday. The car has been great (except for the dealer leaving in the shipping pucks in the struts) and a lot of fun to drive. Over the past week I've noticed that when stopped and idling the engine vibrates every so often. Just like a light flutter. You can feel it in the pedal and kind of on the floor. This happens with the clutch engaged or not. Stopped at a light etc. Just wondering what would be the cause. I thought maybe bad gas that the dealer filled it up with. I just filled up with new gas a couple hrs ago. Maybe coil packs? When driving I have full power and it feels completely normal. Just that slight flutter every few seconds at idle.
View 17 RepliesWhen stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).
View 1 RepliesDuring the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
View 8 RepliesSo my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
Car started to do some weird stuff today. Misfiring under high load, as I get into boost.
Idle is around 1000-1100 RPMs. Cold start is fine, idle is normal in terms of going higher a bit, but then it sits at 1kish. This started last night after the car sat for a couple hours. Totally normal running and driving prior to this.
I've seen all the MKV threads about it that suggest everything from battery, to alternator, to grounds, to vacuum leaks, to intake leaks, to MAF.
My car is a 2010 gti mk6, unitronic stage 2, apr turboback, r8 coilpacks, stock intake with k&n drop in filter. Several months ago, it started throwing CELs, P2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank1. I cleared it. It kept coming back. Sometimes it threw P2293 fuel pressure regulator 2 performance but I read it via VCDS, it should be P0088 Fuel Rail/System Pressure too high - intermittent. it was accompanied by some high idles at stop light e.g. at constant 900, 1000 or even 1200rpm occasionally. but the car drove well, seemed like nothing wrong.
High idle youtube link: [URL] .....
I changed the front o2 sensor but the problem persisted. Then I thought it was the MAF, I unplugged it, oil consumption improved but high idle and the above P2293 persisted. Recently, the high idle appears more frequently. I now suspect it is the PCV valve. I took off the oil cap this morning, felt some suction, the engine shakes a little and exhaust sounded a little rough but rpm didn't change. Taking off the oil dipstick showed the same. Is it the pcv valve?
On my 2010 Golf with 2.5, when I first start car above 40 degrees it goes into high idle for a few seconds which is normal. However, below 40 degrees it goes into low idle on cold motor. I brought this to 2 different dealers and they checked computer and fin no fault codes. How can I get this fixed?
View 11 RepliesYesterday when I started my car the coolant temp was near 100 (from a previous drive several hours prior) and it was over 80 degrees outside, yet the car went into high idle mode as though it was cold outside. It does this sometimes, but not always, and if I dont let it idle down and just start driving, it'll stay in high idle for a long time (i.e. even after a couple miles of driving, if I put it in neutral it'll rev back up to high idle).
Air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are working properly, but it doesn't seem like a normal thing to do, but its done it for years. Anything else that might cause it, or any way to stop it?
High pitched noise when car is running at idle and when not on the gas. Whenever I accelerate it goes away. Pitch/Loudness seems to be higher with RPM's. Could be coming from front of the car.
Checked so far:
I read some other posts about this and fully disconnected my aftermarket radio. I'm pretty sure it is not a ground loop as no power to HU shouldn't still create the whistle.
What I have:
I have an EIP aftermarket street exhaust. I checked the exhaust to see about the flapper, but I don't believe I have any of the items involved - maybe I'm wrong. After some more reading it sounds like a vacuum leak as it goes away upon acceleration. I need identifying what vacuum hoses are still in place/clamped off with having an aftermarket exhaust.
I do not have a CAI, just a K&N drop in.
I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
So recently my water pump failed so i did the pump, timing belt, and thermostat. While putting the alternator back in a may have broken a few fins on the alt. case. Anyways I was ripping it a bit today only a day after stuff done and the battery light came on. The car is warmed up and the idle drop a few hundred rpm and then back up. The headlights dim as well. and come back up with rpm. Even when I hod the pedal steady at 2k rpm itll still dip and come back up...thinking its an alt but is that really a symptom of a bad alt? I was also thinking I didn't tighten the alt bolt down alt the way or fuses or something so checking that but I am almost positive it's all tight down.
View 9 RepliesI'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 Replies2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.