Golf V R32 :: Heat Blows Cool Air - Temp Won't Change?
Jan 30, 2016
I've read that this is a somewhat common problem but can't find the part number to what I need. My heat stopped working and won't change blowing any temp only blows slightly chilled air. I found that its suppose to be a part in the dash that controls this thru the climatronic head unit some lever that isn't getting pushed over correctly dew to a worn out part. What part I need to get my heat back working.
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I have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
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On occasion the heat on my mk6 golf will start to blow cold when turned to the max click. Turning it back one click will cause it to start to blow hot again.
Friend at the dealer said he thought there was a software update for the hvac controls ....
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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I have an '08 350 with less than 82K miles. My problem is the AC. The vents on the passenger side blow out cool air and all the vents on the driver's side blow out hot air. Even the vents in the backseat, the left one blows hot air and the right one blows cool (my son informed me of this as I hadn't even checked). As you can imagine it's very uncomfortable driving around in this CA heat every day, especially since the driver side vent in the center cannot be completely closed. What could cause this?
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I have a 2004 Buick Century with about 48,000 miles on it..the A/C blows very cool but not cold,it should be colder..i also have a 2003 century that blows icy cold.. I hooked up a cheap gauge to the low side service port on both vehicles and got about the same reading. Other then being slightly low on refrigerant is their anything else that would cause the A/C to blow cool air rather then icy cold? The compressors seem to kick on the same on both vehicles. I really don't want to add refrigerant if it's not low...
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I have an '02 Durango, and the AC only blows cool air when going down the road at 25+ mph. I thought I'd try putting some refrigerant in, but when I hooked up the gauge on the can it buried the needle, so it's over 100 psi on the low side, and the pressure was high enough that no refrigerant would flow in. Up where the lines attach to the expansion valve, when idling the in line is HOT - like too hot to keep your hand on and the out line is about air temp. The guy at the parts store thought the expansion valve was bad. As stated, AC works okay (but not excellently) while going down the road.
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My 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
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I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
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My 2007 Prius air conditioner blows mainly warm rather than cool air. I took it in for repairs and they replaced the high pressure hose but it is still not cooling the car. The dealer has had the car for 2 weeks trying to determine what the problem is. They tell me it should be blowing 42 degrees but is only blowing 62 degrees. They think that it might be the invertor that cost $1,000.
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My air conditioner blows cool air (not cold) when I am driving, and when I am stopped, it is warm air. I had to replace the sensor last year. Could it be that again, or something else? Chevy Tahoe 2003 ..
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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I bought mine new in 2005, it is a high gloss black exterior with black interior. The wealth of knowledge pouring out from this site about this car is amazing. Recently, tonight actually, I noticed that the light for the passenger rear seat heat/cool control is out. I was wondering if this is something that I can replace myself - or I should go to the dealer for.
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I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
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'98 4runner, 4 banger, auto tranny. The heat/cold selector knob won't rotate but about one quarter around from cold to hot on the graduated color scale. Just won't rotate any further. How easy is it to replace this thing?
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It reached 93 here today and it has always taken too long for my AC to reach a cool temperature. I have never had the AUTO setting slow the fan down even at highway speeds. I am moving to TX in the next few months and I already know what it is like driving it down there...HOT! I could really like improving the efficiency of the AC of my Ex.
Can I use the same insulation used for home AC lines on the truck? Is there any high-temp insulation I could fun over the lines? I found a coolant shut-off valve for the heater core on 7.3 trucks, but not for the 6.0. Is there an equivalent for us with the 6.0?
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A friend has a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 120,000 miles that she just bought the end of 2013. The car was kept immaculate by the previous owner. This week as she was driving, she said the temperature needle suddenly went all the way to H. Earlier in the day, she had noticed the A/C was not consistently cool but didn't think much of it as there were no other problems with the car. When the temp needle suddenly went to H, she shut off the a/c and before she could pull over the temp needle went back to normal. She checked the coolant level which was very low and she took it to the dealer who ran multiple tests including checking the thermostat, cylinder compression tests, etc but they could find nothing wrong. I keep telling her there is a reason it did that and that coolant doesn't just disappear and that I think she should take it back.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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