I was thinking of replacing my existing springs with a set of OEM European springs from oempl.us. Once it's lowered, do the headlights aiming need to be adjusted? If so, how do I do that?
View 5 RepliesYesterday, I installed H&R Sport Springs and then Last night, I notice my HID headlight is dimmed downward to the ground. Do I have to use VAGCOM to make the adjustment?
View 24 RepliesCar is at the dealership now and they said that the sensor is being stretched out from being too low. I'm only dropped on a h&r sport cup kit, nothing drastic.
View 24 RepliesI want to buy some 18' OZ Ultraleggeras but they have a ET45 instead of the recomended 50. Will I have any rubbing issues, especially if I lower it?
View 21 RepliesMy wife has a 2004 jetta gls 1.8t we just got some stock 18" bbs gli wheels . she wants to lower it some. Not really wanting to spend the money for coil overs... she will never adjust them and shes not racing it... just want it to look better. How much to lower it...
View 9 RepliesI haven't lowered my GTI yet but would like to at some point in the semi near future (house comes first), but I want to keep my suspension geometry right when I do it. I like the mostly flush look, but I like to drive my car and don't want to compromise any handling of the car. Unfortunately with lowering the car, the front control arm angles get a bit out of whack and will adversely affect the handling of the car. Is there anything that can be done or any products out there on the market that will bring the front control arms back to a flat or slightly angled down position once lowered?
I know that on the MKIV platform a lot of people would go with a drop spindle, but I haven't found any good aftermarket or reasonable OEM solutions from other cars without having to replace a lot of parts. I seem to remember something about the TTRS knuckle/spindle fitting on the GTI, but it requires quite a bit of part swap and adds up in complexity and cost pretty quickly.
I just installed some Neuspeed sport springs with Koni sport shocks on my .:R and it appears like my swaybar is knocking against my front axle on the driver side.
Now, I read somewhere that is not supposed to be possible, but I can see the marks on the axle. Also, the swaybar link looks like it is twisted quite a bit with the new struts. And, when I look at them with the car on the ground, the distance between the swaybar and the axle looks to be at least 2 inches.
Do I need to center the swaybar? Maybe my control arm bushings are worn out really bad? The camber on the front of my car is -1.4 on both sides.
Looking to get a set of VWracing springs but wondering if there is a way to pull the front struts without having to pull the axles out?
View 24 RepliesSo I installed the DG springs today, and it should've been a simple install. Well once all was said and done I took it for a test drive. Every time I go over a bump I hear a loud clunking noise, like somethings loose. What it could be? I'm pretty sure I tightened everything.
View 10 RepliesI lowered the car on H&R sport Springs with Koni Yellows. On the front right, the sway bar is rubbing the axle under heavy compression (pot hole, sharp dip, bridge joints, etc) and is rubbing the lower control arm (opposite direction) on the driver's side... I got an alignment when I lowered it and it was "within specs"...
I put on adjustable sway bar end links and lengthened the passenger side 1/4" and shortened the drivers side 3/8". left side is slightly better but right side seems almost worse... all rubbing was minimal (barely through the paint on the cast iron parts and nearly no marks on the axle... both strut bearings are new. is it possible that it could be the alignment? Just seems odd to me that the sway bar end links need to be varied lengths to clear....
Alright cliff notes are lowered my 2012 GTI on Eibach Pro Kit springs and Koni Yellows (adjustable) as a DIY driveway job and at first were OK, but 2 weeks later are clunking to the point where it sounds like its going to fall on the ground. Any road imperfection makes it clunk (from the front only).
-Clunks all the time, slow, fast, turns, straight, large or small bumps. Doesn't clunk with dips...
-Gets better when its hot outside (>70 degrees),
I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
View 2 RepliesIs there any adjustments i can make to the latch or the hinges to make it where it shuts better and doesn't rattle.
View 3 RepliesI need to adjust the headlights for my 2015 Lexus gs 350, because it's too low, and it do nothing in semi dark roads. I have removed engine covers, but still, I don't see anything that I can adjust for the headlights.
View 4 RepliesI installed H&R lowering springs this weekend and now the suspension is making quite a bit of noise. I've double and triple checked the installation, and this isn't my first rodeo, so I don't think anything is improperly installed.
I'm hearing popping/banging over large bumps. I do believe that the noise is most noticeable when my tires drop off into a pothole and the suspension is unloaded. I think the noise is caused by the suspension being uncompressed and then the coils of the springs either hitting themselves or hitting the top hat.
Experienced excessive noise with the H&R springs? I think my next course of action is to get some spring isolators and see if that stops the noise.
What do you all think about the new seats?
Although at first I thought the seats were really comfortable I now seem to be having trouble finding exactly the right setting for me. With the 2010 I was also having a lot of trouble at first - the leather seemed really hard compared to the cloth seats I had on the 2006 before that - but I eventually seemed to find the right setting or just got used to it. And now with the 2016 I'm having the same problem, in spite of all the ways one can adjust it, although the power adjustments make it easier.
My daily commute is around 52 miles each way so I drive a lot. It feels good at first but after a little while I start feeling tension in my butt, thighs, and/or back. Now I find the Softex seat as hard as the leather on my butt and if I turn down the lumber support, it's too hollow, but if I turn it up, it's really hard.
I'm looking at purchasing a 2014 ES300h. I have a couple voice command questions.
1. Can you adjust the cabin temperature by saying "driver temperature 67" ...
2. Can you adjust the radio by saying "XM Watercolors" ...
I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
I recently went up in size on my tires after installing a Leveling kit. Today for the first time since I had to take a long trip and was checking my speed against what the GPS was stating.. there is about a 8mph difference.
So if the truck says 65, the GPS was saying 73/74, and the faster I went the bigger the difference got.. so if the truck said 70, I was going closer to 79/80
I know that there needs to be some adjustments made so it read correctly again, just wondering if there is also some adjustments that can be made to get the RPM's down at cruising speeds also..
In the past when I would do around 70 or 75, the RPM's would be around 1500 to 1700, now im staying steady at 2000.
What am I looking at to get back to somewhat normal again?
little clip dropped inside headlight assembly and i have to take it off to retrieve it.
There is 3 screws i found so far on top but something is holding it from the bottom.
So my headlight switch is literally On/Off. I disabled the DRL by folding down the pin inside. But I am replacing my headlights with a custom projector housing with HID lows, halogen highs, LED Fogs, and CCFL halos, so I'd like the ability to turn on just parking lights or just the fog lights to show off the Halos etc. If I pick up a Bora Switch that has these features, will I have to re-wire/run through fuse box, etc.
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