Golf V R32 :: Fuel Gauge Drop Down To E And Then Few Moments Later Back Up
Jan 24, 2013
So this morning I was in rush hour traffic, stopped at a traffic light when all of a sudden, I get the bong that signals "refuel" I have just under 1/2 tank, though. Glanced down at the fuel gauge to see it drop down to E and then a few moments later back up to just under 1/2. All the will car was running and seemed fine otherwise. The refuel sign stayed on though ...... even when switched off (while MFD was still on) Restarted the car and refuel message was no longer displayed. What could this be? fuel pump on the way out?
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I have an 05 s10. The gas gauge will read correctly and then randomly it will drop to no fuel and light the low fuel light. then after a few minutes will pop back up to the proper reading? band sending unit? bad wire? where to look?
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MY 2000 300M has a problem with the fuel gauge. When over 1/2 a tank and just under the full mark the gauge will randomly drop down to empty and turn on the low fuel light then go back to the correct reading and will do this over and over again. my mechanic has looked at the car believes it's the sending unit. Just wanted a second opinion before I spent the money for a fuel pump module for the car.
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I have a 2.0 auto city golf. The wife claims when she's sitting at a light the temp gauge drops to nothing, it sounds like it stalled and starts to roll back and then comes back to life when she pumps the gas. Every time I drive it it's fine.
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Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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My car is still at the dealer after having the recall done because they can't get the fuel gauge to start working after they performed the recall. But the gauge had nothing to do with the recall you might say. Correct. But prior to the recall being done the gauge was acting funny. Going from full to empty to 3/4 back to the current level.
I told the dealer about this and they looked into it as they were doing the recall. Now they said they replaced the fuel level sender unit, certain wiring connections but to no avail they still can't get it to work. So my question is, what is the type of Gremlin that could be causing this?
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1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
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i have a 1999 rodeo the fuel gauge will drop to empty when you start the vehicle. the warning light will flash. than as you drive the fuel level will return to normal. the dealer says this is a regular problem and he has replaced at least 12 of then this year. i have called isuzu about this problem and they say they know nothing about this and i should have the problem checked out at my local dealership. i guess my question is do i really have to replace the $350 fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited, and everything was going fine with it till recently. The Fuel gauge started to go haywire as in the needle would go to full, then go back down to a Quarter, then back to 3/4, then drop all the way down to Empty, this is still occurring. At first I believed it to be the fuel level sensor, but then I started to notice something else.
A warning message came on stating that the oil level was too low, but when I checked the oil level it was fine, and last night when I was driving with the air conditioner on, I hit a bump and the air conditioner stopped working. I pushed the off button, and was successfully able to make the air conditioner to come back on with out having to restart the car.
The horn has also started to go in and out, and I do not know if they are all linked together by a type of computer or if they are separate.
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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I have a ford focus (2004) 4cyl 2.0 L. One day, the car would stall only moments after the engine would turn. It would just shut as if fuel was ceased. I could however rev the engine and keep it running if I had my foot on the gas. After awhile, I tried again and it worked! Everything was normal, then it stalled after trying to start if up again. So this was intermittent at the time.
So, I swapped my fuel pump relay with the a/c one- and it fired right up! I'm thinking great, its just the relay and not the actual fuel pump. So went to the parts store, got a relay, and (me being me) wanted the new relay in the original fuel pump relay plug in the fuse box. As I was taking it out, a really really small piece of plastic chipped off of the plastic cover of the relay, and fell in one of the slots where you put the relay. How in the world?? I couldn't get it out. So I ended up putting the relay in anyway, and my car has the same problem originally (stalls), but now I have these check engine codes: p0460 and p0463
I also noticed, its running really rough when I hold the gas now. Could the plastic piece that fell into the relay be causing a strange short from my fuse box? Or, could it be my fuel pump this whole time? If its messed up because the plastic, Is finding a fuse box at a junkyard and replacing it feasible?
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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fuel gauge does what it wants? It goes down to half way then goes back to full or sometimes even empty. Not a big deal for me because I have gotten used to it. But I would hate to have my wife in here and she thinks it's good and run out.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
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My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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My girlfriends 2010 Golf 2.5 is worrying me. We went on a weekend vacation to Boston so the car sat for 3 days. I go to turn it on tonight and it just immediately stalls. I was like okay thats weird so I turn it back on and instead of stalling, the RMP gauge keeps dipping and then going back up and theres a strange knocking noise, so I turn it off and then decide to try again. Same thing happens so I go to open the hood and the noise is pretty loud. I noticed a strange smell outside the car while the motor was running, but I can't really explain it. So I turn it off for about 2 minutes and then start it again and its just back to normal, I'm so confused. I drove it about 5 miles and it seems fine, aside from idling slightly rougher than normal. What this could be?
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My fuel gauge just quit working along with the "miles till refuel" in the message center on my R. Before I suck it up with a trip to the dealer, Is there a sensor on the fuel tank that goes bad?
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