Golf V R32 :: Front Subframe Shutter While Creeping Forward Or Backward?
Nov 10, 2009
Have this issue when creeping forward or backward. If I did not know better I would think that I had a broken motor mount. When I creep forward or backward I can feel and hear the entire front subframe shutter just a little. It gets a little worst when everything is warmed up.
If you have had this, what did the dealer or you do to resolve? Until now I have decided to just deal with it. I have about 9k on the clock.
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I was leaving a parking lot that has an uphill slope leading to a busy road and was going to turn right. There was a car in front of me that was waiting to turn right also. I had trans in D and left the foot on the brake. Car in front moved forward so I pressed the gas pedal and let off the brake. Instead of moving forward I started to roll back as if the car was in neutral.
This freaked me out as there was a car behind me. I braked again and gave the car more gas than before and let off brake again. This time the car jumped forward and I had to brake to avoid the car in front. When the car in front was gone it happened again as I was trying to turn onto main road. It was as if I was driving an MT and was not very good at using the clutch.
I owed an MK 5 GTI for 4 years and never any problems. Apart from this one time, the DSG has been working perfectly.
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Ok, I get that a regular car with an automatic transmission will creep forward unless you keep your foot on the brake. Why does that happen in our cars when they are in EV mode at a stop? Unless the pedal is pressed to send power to the electric propulsion system why shouldn't it just sit there absent influence from gravity?
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Car is on airlift slam xl and on a set of bbs style 5's 17x8 et20 with 195/40 all around. problem is the front subframe hits the ground already before it completely airs out so i got some front tires still showing in the front.
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I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
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I have a sonata 2009 automatic, I bought it last week and I am really happy with it, but I have one doubt.
When I am driving down hill, if I put the gear in R mode and does not use brake, the car will roll down the hill, vise verse I am driving up hill (car stopped, gear on D, no brake used) the car will roll down.
I know from previous experience that automatic cars should stand still / move forward if in D/ move backward if in R even if I am driving downhill / uphill.
is that mean there is a problem in my gear?
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My 2000 Outback is shaking - forwards to backwards - when I am driving, sometimes. The car is new to me, I've only had it two weeks. My dad bought the car and did a bunch of work on it. The timing belt and water pump have been replaced, also the spark plugs and wires. We changed the fuel pump and filter and adjusted the idle? (not exactly sure what that is, but my mechanic checked it and said it was idling normally). My dad is a mechanic, but he lives far away from me and he fixed everything he could think of before I brought the car home, so we are at a loss as to what else could be causing the car to shake this way.
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Can the head rests in a 2013 ES be moved forward or back, not just up or down? I thought I read somewhere they could, but for the life of me I can only get mine to go up and down ....
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I was driving down the road and suddenly the car stopped. The check hybrid system light came on, and it wouldn't go forward or backward. I had to have it towed. What has happened? Is it included in extended warranty?
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I have a 2002 Limited with an issue with my driver's seat. The heater works but I cannot get the seat to move forward/backward etc. The passenger side works and I've switched the fuses around so it isn't the fuse.
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I bought Akebono cermaic pads for my GS 350 AWD which I thought were high quality good fitment pads as they even advertise them on tirerack. Now I am not really impressed. After about a month every time I pull out of my garage in the morning they click and squeal (squeak).
The scenario: After I come home from work at night I pull into my driveway and park in the garage. The pads are already seated in the forward position from driveing forward and parking. Then in the morning I go and back up in reverse to pull out, I tap the brakes to stop and shift into drive to pull forward; at the moment I depress the break pedal the two front rotors simultaneously click and sometimes squeal. Sometimes when I get in my car at the transit center in front of everyone this happens.
Is there a shim kit or something I can add to the brake pads to sit in between the pads and rotors to get them to stop moving. I know that there not moving a lot but whatever play they have is causing me brake pad buyers remorse.
I went with these Akebono ceramic because they dust much less then stock semi-metallic pads. Becuase I had them on my Audi and they didnt dust nearly as much as the stock set. But once and while they too would click in this situation but nearly as much as now in my Lex.
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Just a few days back, the front passenger seat of my 2010 Legacy ceased to move forward and backward. So no one can feasibly sit in the front when I'm driving unless under 5' tall. The lumbar and seat back motors seem to be working just fine, so just the back and forward function/motor is dead. I initially thought something was stuck in the tracks that hold the seat in, but checked all of that out and nada. The motor makes no sound or vibration. I'm also surprised the seat mechanism seems to be broken in a 4-yr-old car with low mileage.
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE. I've noticed recently that the driver's seat moves either forwards or backwards when coming to a stop. The movement is not dramatic, but sure is noticeable and annoying. I took the car into the dealership, and they told me if this problem was not caused by the car itself and was occurring because of me, they will charge me around 125 dollars for a diagnosis charge. I took the car right out. Is it just normal wear? My solution was to remove the whole seat and see if there are any loose nuts. By the way, the seats are manual.
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I have a 2008 Prius basic model bought second hand. There are two issues since I have bought the car; first it will roll back or forward when the brake applied, this happens on any uphill or downhill. I brought the car to Toyota service centre, they did a brake test, the test passed. but this doesn't resolve this issue. It just very weird. during driving, all brake works ok, but parking the car, if not in even service, it starts to roll.
Second, recently I hear there's a crack sound when apply the brake during low speed, especially during the stop/start traffic, and I notice mostly happens when the electrical motor in running. So when brake, the crack, like the spark comes from somewhere like battery. While brake to slow down from high speed, seems no sound. So I suspect it was from the battery or electric motor.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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So I'm coming from the MK5, MK6, & CC/B6 Passat world. On those cars, they were notorious for having the front subframe "clunk" noise. The suframe would shift back & forth, creating a "clunk." This was VW's fix: [URL] ....
Anyways....I've noticed this about 5 times now I'm on my '13 Passat V6.....when I go to back up into a parking spot. And that's the ONLY time it's done it too.
Going from Drive, I put it into Reverse and then turn the wheel a little (NOT even all the way) and hear a "pop" or creak/clunk....definitely from the front. So my guess is that it's the subframe shifting. Only 400 miles on the car too, btw.
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I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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I upgraded to APR II+ about two months ago and have been having the following issue that has been getting more frequent. During full throttle, now even not at full throttle, the boost will hit 20-24 psi and start creeping down to about 4 at 6500 rpm. I can hear what sounds like the waste hate just dumping in the mid to high rpms. The car feels like it's making no power and when I hit peak recall on my P3cars gauge it will read between 22.1 and 25.1. I have a feeling it's the N75 valve, or whatever it's called. Just wanted some input before I went out to get one. Other info car is at 24,xxx miles, just did an oil change, use different gas stations, and can follower was done about 7,000 miles ago.
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This morning I went to reverse my girlfriends 91 sx celica out of the driveway only to find that the front left wheel locks up while trying to move backward. At first I thought it was the gear box so I put it in neutral but it still would not budge. The last 3 weeks it has been making bad clicking and banging noises I thought was just a poorly greased control arm. I drove the car down the street and back and it moves freely with a minor constant clicking noise but only while going forward. I'm wondering whether it is in fact the transmission or cv or what?
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I know its normal that the rear subframe is not centered. mine right side is off by like 5mm. is this within the norm or is way too off? I am running 20mm spacers for the rear and I have to switch the right to 15mm to make them somehow centered. What can be done to fix this properly?
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So I've been chasing this subframe clunk for some time now and have hit a wall on what I can do to stop it. Order of "fixes" :
-retroque bolts
-buy install audi bolts
-buy install TyrolSport kit
-replace every main subframe bolt with ARP bolts
Every time the clunk kept getting quieter or nonexistent but then someone comes back. Like right now I have the subframe collars installed and ALL 6 bolts are ARP. Clunk was gone for about a month and now its back, quiet but still driving me nuts.
What I can do? My next try is new strut tower bushings and bearings as people say that can cause a clunk. just weird how I will mess with the subframe and noise will go away then slowly come back, making me think its not the bushings. It appears to come from passenger side but anything is possible.
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