R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 RepliesDuring recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
I have a 2001 Ford F250 truck -- it was stalling out (which was diagnosed as a faulty fuel pump), so I had the dang thing replaced. But nearly 6 months later, it's randomly stalling out again when I put it in reverse or stop at a light.
View 1 RepliesI recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
View 1 RepliesThe cluster works fine in the car. MFA works. The immobiler does activate but my ecu has an immobilizer defeat so it doesn't kill the car. I'm not having any of the usual issues with cluster swaps. I'll get the immobilizer issue recoded later. My issue is with the fuel level indicator. I have half a tank of fuel and it is reading full. I've researched and found out the r32 has 2 fuel sending units and this may be where the problem is. If so is it a matter of re-adapting the cluster or is it slightly more complicated than that?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1983 Nissan Sentra with a Hitachi carburetor. The fuel in the float bowl seems to drain completely after sitting for 48 hrs. Is this normal? If not, what is the solution to preventing this fuel loss?
View 7 RepliesI have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 RepliesThis van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
View 10 RepliesMy F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
View 2 RepliesI worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 RepliesStuck 398 miles from home. Car kept losing power, running out of fuel (even though I had a quarter tank). Stopped and filled it, but could only barely get to next exit. Step on gas- no go. Let off gas, car catch back up and run. Wife noticed definite new sound in back. Took her many miles and comments before it finally sunk in and I remembered the same groaning noise from a fuel pump going out on a cabrio. So, fuel pump bad.
Am preparing to go out and jump terminals, as per bentley manual. That should tell if it is transfer pump or fuel pump. My main concern now is are the pumps under the rear seat or in the trunk?
By the way, I made it to a motel (lucky enough one that accepts pets!)
Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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