Exhaust tick really bad under acceleration when its cold. It goes away after the car is really warm. Im thinking i have an exhaust leak that is closing up when the exhaust warms up.
View 2 RepliesNot long ago my wife said the air recirc doesn't work any more on our '04 V8 and I had to admit that I agreed. After a little investigative driving, I noted that heavy acceleration (or uphill climb) causes V8 to tick (can hear it reflecting on passing walls, for instance) and strong smell of exhaust in cabin.
I thought it might be a manifold/exhaust system leak causing the noise and the exhaust smell. Seems to be only when driving aggressively or climbing. Soonest the local dealer can see it is 7/21 (16 days from now). You think it safe to drive?
11' Non-Turbo 2.4 with 145k Full Synthetic every 5k (Done me or provided to the quicky lube) Around 80K about 2 weeks after taking it in for an oil change my wife heard a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Pulled over and there wasn't a drop of oil on the stick. It started with about a qt every 1000 miles or so, now it's to the point that I have to put a qt in about every 3 days (1-200 miles)
We cannot see oil anywhere, last I checked the plugs had carbon build up but were not wet. (Recently) We also hear a ticking sound during hard acceleration and a good bit of black smoke coming from the exhaust.
We still owe 5k on it, it's our first new car and I'm terrified the thing is going to blow up before I pay it off. Tonight as I was about to get in the car with her I heard the clicking sound again but this time it was full (just added some yesterday). I have compression and leak down testers, know a little bit but I am nowhere near a "mechanic".
The wife's 08 Mountaineer has an exhaust tick when it's cold. Goes away after it warms up. EGR valve sticking or something? Is there an easy fix?
View 5 Replies5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
View 9 RepliesI am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
[URL] .....
In the cold weather I found I had what sounded like ticking noise at idle on the R. It doesn't do it when first started and I didn't remember it in the warmer weather either. My research indicated it could be the DI injectors or the N80 valve. But what got me concerned was that I could hear the ticking inside the cabin, somewhere in the front passenger footwell area. And at times over normal radio volume. This was not the case in any of those other threads on the issue as they noted the sound only outside the car.
So I took the car into the dealer this morning to see what they would say. Had a good tech check out the car and try a few things. Turns out the tech found it was the fuel line underneath the car rattling. He said this was a common issue in the MK V cars and there is a service bulletin out on it, but he had never seen it on a MK VI car.
I have done the flapper mod. My exhaust has a nasty rasp on acceleration. I have a buddy with a MkIV R32 and his car sounds MUCH better than mine with no rasp.
View 6 RepliesThis morning on the freeway, I was going to pass someone in 6th gear, put the pedal down start accelerating like normal, then suddenly at a little over 3k RPM the sound of the exhaust gets a lot deeper and it accelerates a little bit harder.
I know that boost starts to really kick in at about 3k RPM, but I have never noticed the exhaust get deeper like that. I did it a few more times and it seemed to stop doing it. I didn't notice the tachometer jumping around or anything so I don't think it is clutch slip.
At cold start (car sitting at least 8 hours), and the first block or so of driving, I have been getting smoke from the exhaust. I am not 100% certain whether to describe it as black or blue. If I start and idle the car, the smoke continues until I start driving.
After warming the car up, I have tried letting the car sit and idle for an extended period (over 5 minutes), and the smoke does not reappear.
Background;
- APR Stage 3 car, 17,700 miles
- On a particularly cold night this winter, the BFI clean catch did freeze up, and the car started blowing smoke. I removed it for winter and re-installed recently.
- Oil change with Rotella T6 and Mann filter 700 miles ago; the level when warm is at Max level
During the winter, it is hard to say whether this issue was happening. I noticed the issue some time after changing the oil, so I am wondering if the oil level may be slightly high. I changed the oil around the time the weather started consistently staying above 40F, though, so it could be coincidence.
I tried to come up with what the cause could be. What I was thinking (in order of easy to difficult);
- It's normal! The weather is warm, and the fuel trims have not adjusted yet, so it's running rich at start-up.
- It's normal! Typical 2.0T stuff.
- It's a catch can problem. Troubleshoot by removing it and seeing if the smoking stops.
---> Catch can is NOT full. I check it at least once per week.
- It's a turbo problem. The catch can freezing overpressurized the turbo lines and blew a seal
---> Although my experience has been that idling the car should bring the smoke back in this case, which I haven't gotten it to do.
- It's an engine problem.
Firstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
View 5 RepliesTo get straight to the point: I have a 2013 GTI that has recently started making a screeching noise on cold starts and during engine acceleration (not necessarily heavy load, but actual engine speed acceleration).
I recorded a video of it this morning and it is very easy to discern the sound. The car is APR stage 1 tuned and has a south bend clutch but I don't think either of those are related to the sound. The water pump has been replaced from the service bulletin, the auxiliary belt tensioner has been replaced because it started to make a noise (this noise is completely different). Otherwise the car has never given me an issue, it has been maintained exactly per the OEM repair schedule other then oil changes every 5k miles vs. 10k. I use mobil 1 0W-40 oil.
The video link: [URL] ....
Since I brought my car to the Mississauga Hyundai dealership for an oil change and check up for a rattling sound my car has come back to this new ticking noise from the exhaust.
I had the dealership do an oil change (my own synthetic bought Quakerstate oil) and apparently they put a clamp/bracket because my exhaust was making the rattling sound. The rattling sound is gone, BUT i have this ticking sound every time after the car is shutoff no matter short or long drive. Also can hear it while driving sometimes.
I have took the car back to the dealership and they told me this is normal, the thing is my car has never made this sound before i took it to the dealership. The hyundai dealership claims that this is just exhaust cooling down/ heat expansion. I am curious to why it never made this sound before.
It is a 2011 Elantra gl with 67,000km here is a video after a 15 min drive : [URL] .....
Compared to my last car, the ticking noise you normally hear from the exhaust after you shut the car is louder in my elantra. But that doesnt bother me. However, i can hear that same exhaust noise while im driving. Its coming from underneath the middle of the car not the engine. My old car did not make that noise while driving, just after i shut the car off.
View 9 RepliesStrange ticking noise that you can hear in the cabin sounds almost like a exhaust leak or a fan blade ticking something under the hood.. I have had the dealer check it they say nothing is wrong i just can't believe a 75k car can have this noise...
View 14 RepliesAs it says, I have a tick. It's not apparent at idle and increases with engine speed.
Just spent $570 having bellowed up-pipes installed and while a little quieter, the tick is still there. What else tends to go out on these things? Manifold(s) cracked, manifold gasket(s)? It's seen high EGT's quite a bit but not for longer than 20-25 seconds.
If the exhaust manifold gasket is broke / cracked will it making a ticking sound?
View 5 RepliesI have the classic ticking sound on acceleration. I had a muffler shop check it out and the tech said he thinks the passenger side exhaust manifold has a leak. I have already replaced the whole manifold and cat on the drivers side. Could it be just the gasket? The ticking is coming from the top near the engine and not the cat. Is it a pain to replace the gasket?
View 14 Replies