Golf V R32 :: Exhaust Or Vacuum Leak At Higher RPMs
May 6, 2015
Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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I have an exhaust leak that has gotten worse and is quite loud now. I have been under the car and a mechanic just checked what he could without a lift and didn't find any leaks. Yesterday, I had it up on ramps and looked under and think the sound is coming from where a heat shield is. When I'm in the car the noise sounds like it's slightly in front of me.
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I am in the process of trying to chase down a vacuum leak on my 2003 F150 with the 5.4. I have checked all lines and cannot find it. I decided to check the long term fuel trim and noticed that my bank 1 is slightly higher than bank 2 (screenshot attached). Is this enough to assume the leak is on the bank 1 side?
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I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
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How to get rid of that stupid buzzing noise from the exhaust every time it shifts in higher RPM, It freaking sounds like a Honda and it is driving my crazy. I did the Exhaust flap mod but it didn't go away.
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When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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I suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
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I have a vacuum leak on the driver side seal on the changeover rod in the intake manifold. It was replaced recently at the dealer and now has another hole in it. I was told this is caused by oil in the lines and my pcv valve is bad.
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Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
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I just bought a 05 1.8T Jetta 116,000miles. and need diagnosing it. It misses all the time. Has new plugs I tried two other sets of coils (from my 2.0 a4 and my dads passat) and it made no difference. The SAI was taken out but nothing is blocked off. Also the coil pack wiring harness has cracks on the big brown wire where it goes down along the block. I'm getting these codes on my vag-com.
16687 cylinder 3 misfire
16686 cylinder 2 misfire
16688 cylinder 4 misfire
17766 cylinder 2 open ignition circuit
17763 cylinder 1 open ignition circuit
17769 cylinder 3 open ignition circuit
17772 cylinder 4 open ignition circuit
So am I correct in thinking that it's from the cracked harness? An not a vac leak?
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I can smell the exhaust inside the cockpit when accelerating and high RPMs, but in nothing in normal driving. I checked the pipes for leaking but all is fine.
My friend suggested to remove the catalytic converters that might be blocked. the car Mileage is now 145000 KM....
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I'm just curious, I have milltek catback and lately, i feel like I can hear a very small exhaust leak somewhere under the car. I could be way wrong because I get super paranoid once I hear an odd noise, so anyway would a small leak light up the CEL?
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