Golf V R32 :: Engine Unexpectedly Died - Not Running Smoothly
Sep 18, 2008
Today, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
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My car has 96,000 miles on it now and I have been having some trouble. 3 weeks ago I was having a lot of trouble cold starting the car. I had the oil changed and the spark plugs. I then had VW replace the black ECT with the green top one and the engine light went off for 48hours then it came back on.
After the ECT was replaced I did not have any trouble starting that car, but the car was not running right. I would put it into second and it will barely move. The thermostat does not become level until 10 minutes after driving it for a while.
I have an appointment in the next few days to have VW look at it. What else could it be?
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So, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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Just poking around under the hood of my new car. Removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and it promptly sputtered and died. I've done that countless times on non-turbo engines to get a better listen to the valve train, and never had an engine die on me, including my B5.5 V6. Put the fill cap back on and it cranked right up and idled normally again. No CEL or other lights. Is that normal?
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My 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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My 1997 Explorer with a 5.0 will surge making the truck lunge forward unexpectedly. If I drop it into neutral the RPMs drop right down.
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1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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The car came with a EIP Short Shifter. It is short, but seems to be having some problems. Is it normal to feel like I have to really try and get it into gear? I like being able to shift and not "muscle" it in.
I don't know how to put it. It takes so much effort that in a "track" scenario I do not see how this could even be used. Does that make sense?
A bigger a more worrying problem is that on high rpm shifts (5k+) 3rd gear will sometimes grind unless I REALLY slam dunk it in.
This is keeping me from really "driving" the car. My damn Volvo sedan could be romped on harder. It didn't fight me. Is this some crazy EIP thing?
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Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
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I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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It seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
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After coming down a mountain pass my engine started making a weird sound and then died. I am told that it was because I was in too low a gear for the speed I was going (I was using the triptronic or whatever it is called to stay in a lower gear coming down the pass). I had clean and ample oil and no warning lights came on and there are 98,000 miles on it. Does this cause make sense? I have been reading in other discussions that many cars have crank shaft sensors, do VW cars have this? VW Golf 2005 TDI .....
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It's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
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My engine seems to misfire when I first start out and then runs smoothly. The first mechanic got a random misfire from the diagnostic and replaced all the cylinder coils which worked for about a week. The second mechanic ran a diagnostic which said random misfire and he said it was a loose spark plug. This worked for 4 days then it started misfiring again. There's no violent shaking or backfiring. I don't know much about cars but it seems odd that it doesn't keep misfiring. It's a 2006 jeep Liberty with 87,000 miles...
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What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
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When cold engine starts on the first attemp 80% of the time, when warm its about 60-70%. Sometimes it take 2-3 attemps to start. But on the second to last attemp the engine will fire very little and then knock off.
So far I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, boost sensor?, fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injector ohms and fuel pressure at the engine with the old pump. After replacing the fuel filter it started fine for a few days, after replacing the fuel pump it started fine for a week. Thus making me believe it's a fuel issue. So I added check valves to the fuel line at the engine, both the supply and return lines. And still few days later it's back.
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I traded my 08 R32 for a certified 2013 GTI Autobahn 4 dr. and have noticed a few quirks or issues. I have had several Vw's and my wife currently has a 2010 Tiguan SEL awd. The car goes in on the 10th to see what the dealer can find out. I bought the car with roughly 9400 miles and it has 11,300 on it now.
Issue 1 - The passenger side door handle does not pull smoothly to open. When you pull on it it goes about half way and stops and then you have to pull it again or harder. I am thinking it is an alignment issue.
Issue 2 - When i first start driving after the car has sat overnight in the garage or in the parking lot at work I get a swirling sound from the rear brakes. I do set the parking brake every time it is parked. It is almost like the brakes are not releasing all the way or rub for a little.
Issue 3 - This is the one that is odd and concerns me. When i first start driving the car takes several minutes to come up to 190 degrees. I baby the car till it gets up to temp for the turbos sake. But oddly after it gets up to temp with in 5 minutes it is like the thermostat opens and it cools back down to 150-160 and then comes back up to temp. My wife's car does not do this and neither did the 07 Passat 2.0t. Is this common? When talking to the service advisor (who I have been dealing with for a while) he said he has never had this issue come up.
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