How long would you say the engine reaches the full/normal operating temperature?
I have tandem parking at my place and in the morning my GF leaves for work before I do. So I drive at least about a mile before I shut off the engine to make sure everything is warmed up.
2006 Passat 2.0t. With the engine cold, the a/c will blow warm until the engine gets up to operating temp and the rad fan kicks on. After that, it will stay on and blow cold all day. I would think the rad fan should kick on as soon as I turn on the a/c to get air flow moving across the condenser as in every other car I have ever owned.
Does rad fan kick on as soon as you turn on the a/c? I'm thinking that i might have a problem with a relay that suppose to kick the rad fan on. I used my VAG.com software and its showing no faults.
I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
Cold start ok . Problem arises after engine is at operating temp. After stopping for whatever and attempting to restart, dash no longer lights up with key in on position but starter cranks and engine won't start. Leave key in on position for about a min.dash lights back up and engine starts.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
View 8 RepliesI have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
View 5 RepliesI don't have my manual handy, wondering what the normal operating temp of the coolant is for a 1.8T B5? I believe it is 190, but want confirmation.
View 1 Replies2003 Pontiac Montana 3.4 L
225000 Kms
Intake Gasket replaced already at 60,000 kms (yes a while ago)
Recently, noticed a major external coolant leak at the front of the motor (passenger side). It only leaks when at operating temperature and under pressure. It does not leak when you first start the engine, it takes a while before it leaks.
I replaced the rad cap, just in case it was faulty. Upon the second test, after getting it running good and hot, it leaked again. But only when at operating temp. It is not overheating.
Problem is, as the coolant is leaking out, the main drive belt is splashing the coolant all over the place and thus I am having a heck of a time pinpointing if it is a head gasket or intake manifold leak or perhaps somewhere else.
I can't take things apart to get a better view, because it needs to be running at operating temp to get the leak. If I pull anything apart for a better view, I won't be able to start the engine to reproduce the leak.
'92 Camry 5S-FE 4cyl 2.2L A/T; This one has me puzzled. Runs well, newer ignition parts, but does not start when warmed up to OpTemp. Starts fine cold, restarts when warm after 5-10 minute cool down (is not overheating). Will start hot if starting fluid is injected into throttle body, so problem is unlikely spark, it has to be fuel, right? Just ran SeaFoam thru top end as I was advised it could have been carbon build up, but that did not fix. Got some carbon burn off, but hot start issue remained.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump and filter both replaced less than a year ago. I have basic tools, but not much more than a Multimeter for test equipment.
Having issues with 00 lincoln ls not reaching normal operating temp.
View 1 RepliesWhen I start my van first thing in the morning it starts fine when it reaches t2he normal operating temp on my gauges, it begins to stall and dies. Then after Restarting it once or twice it runs great the rest of the day.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 Buick LeSabre Limited with a 3800 engine.When the engines cold,it starts fine and drives fine.When it reaches operating temp,if you shut it off. It will crank but not start back up until its cold again. I've replaced the crank and cam sensors but no change.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 Celica GTS 2.2L manual trans. A hose blew on the way to work, got it towed home and repaired the hose. I also checked the Thermostat, it worked fine, replaced it anyways with a new one.
The problem is when it is under stress, in any gear, it will heat up past regular operating temp (all the way to red if left long enough) but as soon as I engage the clutch and put it in neutral, it drops back down to normal operating temp. It will never overheat at idle, only under stress.
I have checked the Radiator, done a flush, it seems to flow fine with no blockages. Also checked the rad cap, no issues. I have gotten the air bubbles out of the cooling system, that did not work either. The only other thing I can think it could be is a degrading water pump. It is still pushing coolant through, but not at a fast enough rate due to degraded blades??Or maybe I have missed something on the Radiator and it could be not cooling the water enough? By the way, this whole engine was re-built 42,000 kms ago, ran like a dream until this happened.
I have a 2002 jeep wrangler TJ, 4-cylinder and lately it has been stuttering/hesitating after the car reaches its' operating temp. To give more context, I've had a similar issue recently that a local mechanic said resulted from a bad o2 sensor and exhaust leaks. He fixed what he could and replaced the sensor. This fixed the issue, but he did mention there was another leak in the manifold that he couldn't get to? I asked him if it was okay to drive for the time being and he said yes. A couple months have passed and I'm now getting the same issue. I'm wondering if it is a result of the leak and if I've worsened the situation? Currently I'm noticing the same hesitation/stuttering accompanied now by a strong exhaust smell while driving. Also there seems to be a buildup on the engine itself as if there is an oil leak. I'm not 100% everything is related, but I'm willing to bet they have stemmed from the same unresolved issue.
I realize this jeep is 12 years old and that things are bound to happen. Unfortunately, I'm a broke college student and I've already spent quite a bit on other repairs recently. (new radiator, oil pressure sending switch, power steering sensor, leak repair, etc.) I'm at my wits end because this is my daily driver and I don't want to exacerbate the problem!
About 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
View 11 Replies95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
View 11 RepliesI have replaced the EGR over 1 month ago and also replaced the MAP sensor also as it was bad. I also have a Scan gauge, for monitoring.
The problem is once the truck gets to OT and the valve opens I have heavy black smoke on take off?
When I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
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