Golf V R32 :: Engine Just Would Not Turn Over - Oil Pressure?
Oct 2, 2008
Last night I went to the bowling lanes with some work friends (didn't do so hot). When I went to leave and start the car... well, the R wouldn't start. There was plenty of power and I could tell it wanted to go, but the engine just wouldn't turn over. After a few tries the monitor gave a "STOP! Oil pressure Engine off!" display. I'm not sure what the deal is. The car just turned 10k miles and there is plenty of oil in the engine.
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I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7 that's sending me messages whenever the car demons feel the need. From time to time, a message will come up on my console display saying, "TURN OFF ENGINE; OIL PRESSURE LOW." I shut off the engine and then it stops. Along with the message there is a continuous tone similar to when a door is open. The tone gets loud, then soft, repeat. I find it hard to believe that the oil pressure would equalize after the engine being shut down for about 30 seconds. Could I possible have an electrical problem? I ask this because, as I mentioned before, the tone is loud initially and then soft. When I use the turn signal, the same thing happens.
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I am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
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So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I have a 24v vr6 gti, stage 2 C2 motor sports tune, and when i turn the key to the on position a message pops up on the dash that says: STOP OIL PRESS. STOP MOTOR! What this means or why it happens?
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So last week I got my new smf flywheel installed but it wasn't without issue. While putting everything back together, somehow the plastic side to side shift lever broke. I had already ordered a sigma six shifter so I had them put it in.
Now I picked up my car and had a lot of trouble putting it into first, and ended up in third several times. So after about a mile or two I pulled into a gas station to check it out. While turning at a very slow speed within the gas station, I got a warning on the mfi screen that said something like "low oil pressure! Engine off!"
The engine didn't cut off and the warning went away after a second.
I drive the rest of the way home since everything seemed fine besides the shifter. I checked the oil at home and the dipstick was dry! I couldn't believe it. So this morning i adjusted the shifter and it's super smooth now, then I added a quart of oil. Still barely at the min line so I added another half quart, which finally got it into the middle area. I added the rest of the second quart after that. I did run the engine then let it sit to measure.
Car is at almost 28k. My last oil change was almost 8k ago. Stage 2+ Apr. Hpfp and new cam follower put in 10k miles ago, at 18k. Downpipe put in this January, around 22k miles.
If the dipstick was dry, that would mean i burned at least 3 qts in 8k miles. Is that likely? Or do you think the installer messed something up?
I never got a clear story as to how the shifter broke but these guys are supposed to have a good reputation. I couldn't find any leaks or anything and didn't notice anything that looked out of the ordinary. I'll try to jack up the car and take a look, but I'm dropping it to the dealer to inspect next week as I still have CPO warranty.
I know these engines burn oil but with this low mileage I'm worried either something else is going on, or the installer messed something up and didn't tell me.
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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Think I need a new battery in my key ad it's been acting up a bit. I am sitting in my car right now, key won't lock or unlock doors and I can't stop the engine.
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The fans in the engine bay wont turn off. As long as the car is on they run. they do turn off when the car is off.
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1999 Jetta 2.0l Engine Will Not Turn Over. The Battery Is Not That Old. Lights,radio Work. Oddly Enough The Trunk Will Not Open. It Acts As If A Fuse Is Blown And Shut Ignition Down. Windows won't go up or down. and my trunk stays on.
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My golf, made in 2008 (1.6 FSI, petrol), has a tricky problem now. When I turn on its engine for the first time in the morning, its RPM goes over 10 (12~13) with louder sound than normal. So I turn it off and on again, and then everything becomes immediately fine: RPM is below 10 and the sound is just fine. After that, the problem does not happen again all day. But it happens in the next morning when I turn on the engine for the first time in the day!!
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So, I decided to re-code the car such that the radio does not shut off when I turn off the engine (KESSY) but rather when I open the door to get out. It's accomplished by recording the instrument cluster to think it's a UK cluster. Well, when I did that the area that usually displays the outside temp is displaying my speed in KPH. I changed the coding back to US and it didn't work. The temp is displayed if I choose to have the car stats displayed like miles till empty and such but that's not usually what I have displayed. Funnily enough, I do like knowing what the outside temp is.
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
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So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
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Car is a 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta GLS 2.0
I went to Discount Tire today to have my tires changed. Afterwards, my car wouldn't start or even turn over. My power windows wouldn't go up or down, the dome light wouldn't come on, the power door locks wouldn't work, and the trunk latch wouldn't work.
My gas door will open using the switch.
What happened was - I walked with the service tech out to my car, handed him my key, and he got in my car. Somehow he activated the alarm and deactivated it right away. He started the car and drove to the service bay. They did the tire change. Went I went to my car, I noticed the trunk was open and the trunk light was on as well as the radio (at low volume). I turned the radio off, tried to start the car, and all the dash lights came on but the car didn't turn over. Thats when I noticed that most of the aforementioned power features wouldn't work. They tried to give me a jump start, but it wouldn't turn over. They needed the service bay so they pushed the car out (with me in it) backwards and I was told to pop it into reverse to roll start it. That worked. I still could not operate any of the power features previously mentioned. When I got home I shut the car off and tried starting it again - no go.
So now I have a dead car with power features that wont work. I have a scanner tool and I'm going to scan for fault codes, but would like some input. The scanner is not a Rosstech.
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I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
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I have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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My car Mk4 Gti has not been starting recently, showing all the symptoms of a dead battery. When I try to start it clicks or sometimes if there's more juice the engine attempts to turn over once or twice.
The weird thing is this started happening in conjunction with my monsoon head unit randomly dying. The radio was dead for a while and my battery would randomly die. Then I fixed the radio by reseating the fuse on the back and the problem went away.
Just today I started my car and everything was fine sitting in my driveway. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and then my head unit died. I turned my car off to try and fix the radio issue and then it wouldn't start back up. Not sure what the issue is.....
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I have an 03 2.0 jetta manual shifter. Never had issues before this morning. Got in car and sounded like it wanted to turn but wouldnt turn over. After a few attempts the turning sound stopped and I heard an electric pop. Now engine won't even try turning when I turn key it just clicks and engine makes a high pitch noise. Took starter and battery out got both tested and they are fine...
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