Golf V R32 :: Engine Code 5784 Sporadic 001-upper Limit Exceed
Dec 8, 2011
What this code is about it?? 5784 sporadic 001-upper limit exceed
View 9 RepliesWhat this code is about it?? 5784 sporadic 001-upper limit exceed
View 9 RepliesCar shut off while driving to work. ASR and EPC light lit up. Pulled over to the shoulder, car had a really rough idle. Cut the car off and started it back up. Now the pep in my car is gone and it seems like I'm driving with reduced power.
View 2 RepliesHere is my situation. A month or so ago when it got cold out consistently I got a rough idle after start up.. CEL. Code read P0355, cylinder 5 misfire. Removed plug to check it. All was good, I put everything back together (anti seize, dielectric greased) So I replaced coil. It went away. This week got very cold and Code P0355 and flashing CEL. Drove for a mile or so and it went away. So I'm thinking vacuum leak, Intake gasket, egr valve or warped intake manifold?
View 11 RepliesMy 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
View 1 RepliesI have checked egr, hoses to airpump (decided to order new ones), exhaust manifold`s bolts, vacuum hoses etc. I even ducktaped to be clear those hoses. Still waiting for brand new hoses.
I will get this fault:
17497 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 2; Range 1
P1089 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded
And noticed this one:
Seems to be second air injection. The engine is almost new 7000 km mileage after rebuilt. BFH engine code Euro model. First 5000 km i didnt saw the foult then every 500km and now its coming every 20km.
Some details on vdcs:
Car is running ok on idle 780 to 800rpms. Is it possible to mix up these # 24 and 25 connectors? How i can check those?
Our red line is at 6k rpm, but I accidentally revved it to about 6500 in second gear today, and nothing kicked in to stop me. I'm surprised that this car doesn't have a rev limiter at red line. Looking for about rev limits on these engines (2.5)?
View 7 RepliesJust curious how large of an SD card the MK 7 audio system can recognize, as I believe there were limitation in previous generations. I was hoping to get a 128GB card and throw all my tunes on there instead of using an ipod or my phone.
View 15 RepliesI have a 09 w/ DSG and 64K miles. Love it. Never had one mechanical problem until Monday. Driving back from SC on I77 N, my check engine light came on and I stopped at an Autozone in Statesville NC to find that a P2015 fault was to blame. Apparently it is:
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
- Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
- Engine performance is not affected.
At any rate, I drove to the bank this afternoon 2 mi +/- and upon parking at the ATM, the idle went way low (under 1000) and then started creeping higher to about 3K. I raced the engine a couple times then it began starting at 1200, going to about 2000 and then back to 1200. Over and over. It's hard for me not to think these two things were related, except the check engine light was off from Tuesday to today. When the idle was roughest today (almost stalling) - the check engine light began to blink. Then it was steady for the 2 mile drive back and under normal driving, I can't tell anything's wrong.
2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
View 3 RepliesToday I had a wonderful experience at the morning session of the Auto X school at Waterfest 19. It was my first autocross experience and, man, it was a blast. I couldn't believe the car I've been daily driving for three years has so much untapped potential!
Anyway, I had a bit of a technical issue that was holding me back. I got my first two runs in with the instructor on board; I was slow but had no issue. Then, the instructor took the wheel to show me how it was done and ended up spinning the car out on a section of the course with back to back 90's turns, turn #2 having a reducing radius. It felt as if the brakes just locked up and the back end just came all the way around. Once I got back in and had more of a grasp of the car's ability, I experience the same issue and had a few spin outs of my own, in glorious clouds of white smoke.
The feeling is like the car locks the brakes, the brake pedal travels further to the floor, and the throttle is disabled until the car settles again. It even happened once or twice without pressing the brake at all; just engine braking and hard turning in, the brakes locked with no interaction with the brake pedal.
I've been able to duplicate the experience by "panic braking" in the straight line. When the car begins to skid, letting off the pedal will not disengage the brakes and the throttle will be deactivated until the car settles.
What would cause this? ESP was off, but do our cars have a yaw sensor or some system that will still apply the brakes when the car is at its limit? I searched but didn't find much. The car is on stock suspension.
Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
Its a good runner. It has lots of get-up-N-go until you get to 45-mph. Then it just loses interest.
It's a 1983 Ford F-150 King Cab Short Box with a 302? V8, a 5 speed manual transmission, 2 wheel drive & a heavy towing package complete with low speed rear end, over-load springs & a 800 tongue Weight rear bumper. It has about 116,000 miles (long haul miles) on it.
The previous owner said it had had this problem before, and new spark plugs fixed it. I don't know, but it seems more like a fuel or vacuum problem. It behaves just like one of those rental truck governors. Plenty of power up to a preset RPM, then blah.
A mechanic I know said it may be a RPM limit switch in the transmission that prevents over revving the engine. Is he talking straight?
I've changed the upper and lower O2 sensors the Manifold/Cat and still getting the code. Was wondering if the the valve guide seals would give off this code.
View 3 RepliesVehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
View 3 RepliesCar is a 2004 Kia Rio Cinco with 82,000 miles, 5 speed with self-adjusting clutch. My car will not exceed 2500 RPM in any gear. In first (or any other gear) gear I can drive up to 2500 RPM and then must shift into 2nd (or the next gear) if I want to go faster, if RPM goes above 2500 the car stops accelerating and the RPM drops to 2000 at which time the car starts to accelerate again. The engine is running at a very high rate when I come to a stop as if the idle is set too high. The car does not lose electrical power when this happens. I have driven the car more than an hour in 5th gear going 45 to 50 mph keeping the RPMs between 2000 & 2500. I can get around town with easily as long as I am staying in the 2000 to 2500 RPM range. This problem started late Saturday night when I was in Phoenix and had to get to the airport to pick up my daughter and then get back home to Prescott, AZ. Since the dealers were all closed on Sunday I just went home at 45-50 miles an hour all the way back to Prescott. It was a long drive but we enjoyed ourselves. The car ran fine except for the RPM problem.
View 19 RepliesEvery time I exceed 20 MPH, my MFD chimes at me and causes a warning to flash on the screen. The only way to get rid of the warning is to either slow down to under 20 or hit the "OK" button on my steering wheel. This becomes problematic when I am trying to follow the directions given by my nav system.
I turned off the "speed warning" feature that is under the "winter tires" section of the config menu. This didn't affect it. How do I turn this thing off??
2002 grand cherokee... Just took her in on Friday to have valve cover and oil pan leaks fixed, and within an hour of picking it up today the automatic transmission won't get out of 1st gear… rpms rising and can't exceed about 29 mph. Straight 6 engine. Any chance the mechanic messed something up, like a throttle cable or something, or is this just terrible karma?
View 11 RepliesWhile engine braking on long down hill runs I notice about 3-4 lbs of boost when I exceed 3K RPM. Why would I have any boost? Should I be concerned? It's been that way for as long as I can remember.
View 10 RepliesI bought a 2002 W8 92k Miles from a dealer for a very cheap price, KBB 9k, i paid 2k because there was a engine knock *gasp* i know. The body/interior is in good shape. From what I was told the noise was coming from the 'upper' part of the engine..I was hoping it was probably a bad lifter, not a big problem. So the car was trucked to me yesterday, it drives fine still but the engine noise was more severe than i thought. I'm 95% sure it's a spun rod bearing. I'm stressing .
I own a 2 ton gray monument. I cant spend that much money right now on just an engine and a rebuild might be just as expensive. I'm hoping (I need to stop that) that maybe i can drop the oil pan, inspect/remove the rod caps and maybe replace the bearings or push the pistons out the top. In my mind I know the crankshaft was probably scared too but im keeping my hopes high that it wasnt. If thats the case then the whole engine will need to be removed.
I know it not a good idea to buy a car with a knock but that was the condition or the purchase. I want to atleast try to get an idea of the work needed before considering parting it out.
So I was installing my head spacer. When i got the head off I noticed the upper two timing chain rails were shot. The tensioner rail has wear marks from the chain and a small crack in it. Is it possible to change these upper two rails without dropping the transmission?
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