Golf V R32 :: Engine Won't Rev To Redline
Oct 21, 2015
So a couple months ago I noticed that when I floor the gas, my tachometer never peaks over 6500 before shifting. I have tried this in drive and sport mode along with manual mode. In all three it never lets me get above 6500 before shifting.
When I had the stock tune, I could get to 7000 no problem. After I got the UM combo last year it would go to 7200 without any fuss. (on a side note, some other little electrical quirks have happened recently around the same time I noticed the rev issue. When I would go to park the car and turn off the ignition, my windows/sunroof would stop opening or closing when I opened the door.
Now they continue to open or close regardless of the door being opened. Additionally, I have had some problems unlocking my trunk. I have to press and hold the unlock button on my remote for it to open. It used to open if I pressed unlock twice but not anymore. These issues probably have NOTHING to do with my rev issue but I figured I would include in case these symptoms were part of a greater electrical issue)....
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
When I launch the car in S or M and let it auto-shift from 1st to 2nd, the shifts are weak and long. It feels almost like a conventional automatic / torque converter, if you know what I mean. If I force a shift with the paddle or stick at around 6-6.5k, the shifts are (usually) solid and quick.
This only happens in the red and I'm wondering if it happens with all of our cars. I haven't timed it yet, so I don't know if it's any slower or faster. It just *feels* slow. It kinda sucks because DSG is touted as being super fast and crisp but it ends up feeling like my friends' Volvo S60 when I flog it.
View 17 Replies
I know some of us drag race our cars from time to time. I have a fair bit of bolt ons and I was just wondering what I would run so I had her out 3x yesterday. Impressed with my trap speed of almost 100mph on an 85-degree day w a stock intercooler but not my times, so much so that I don't even want to say them.
I was shifting a little after redline as quick as possible and leaving at like 3000-4000 rpm.
Is my clutch slipping or where am I going wrong?
the suspension is mostly stock as are mounts. I am sure I will get better with practice but this was a really sticky track so I really cant blame my tires
View 24 Replies
Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
View 8 Replies
I have a '93 Ford Tempo 2.3 liter with a/c ....it OVERHEATS ... love the car, but when I sit in traffic, the temp needle goes up almost to the redline, I have to shut the car off .... it happens all year round ... if I'm driving up a hill the temp starts climbing, if I turn the heat OFF the temp climbs, in summer when I put A/C on the temp climbs ... I've put 3 Thermostats in, a new Water Pump, there are NO leaks in Radiator, I've replaced Hoses ... no I'm not a mechanic, I've brought it to garages ... other than the overheating issue it's a good lil car, uses maybe 1 QT of oil every other month ... when I lived in SC had the same car....SAME PROBLEM...had a 1995 Windstar that did the same thing, replaced radiators etc nobody could figure it out, or didn't want to....what is it with Fords!
View 7 Replies
Lately I have been driving in the Sport Mode more often. I have noticed that when accelerating from a stop it revs to just below the redline before shifitng, is this normal?
I also notice that when slowing down or coming to a stop, it has a "hurky jurky" feel. As if it was downshifiting way to early. is this normal?
View 4 Replies
I have a 4.0 6 cyl. Jeep wrangler manual transmission. When the jeep is driven in higher RPM close to redline the jeep sputters a bit (doesn't have full power at or close to redline). Is this a governor or does the jeep have a problem? I do not redline often at all. however i live in the mountains and need to travel up steep pass for 1-2 miles every few months.
View 10 Replies
I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
View 3 Replies
So, the engine light is on again and after some pretty intensive TLC with a trusted mechanic. She's also not pulling like she used to. I'm thinking turbo, but need to get back into working in the garage again -- I was a bit of a hack to start anyway!
What engine specific and overall maintenance todos should I put on the to-learn-and-schedule for-some-coming-weekend list. I would like to rebuild an engine one day, but have only witnessed two in person as the bystander and have a lot to learn.
View 1 Replies
I was driving down the highway and hit a "dip" that wasn't marked, and shortly after the engine lite came on. I have a skid plate and the oil level and temp is good.
View 7 Replies
I just installed a New South Performance boost gauge in my MK6 GTI. I followed the instructions to the letter but am experiencing some weird behavior. [URL].............
I replaced the intake manifold hose with the one that I purchased from the kit that has the outlet for the vacuum hose. Connected the vacuum line to the outlet, ran the line along hoses away from parts of the engine that would get hot and went through the firewall on the drivers side. The battery was disconnected for a couple of hours which I heard will cause some warning lights to come on once the car is started but go away after you drive for about 20 ft. I then used the provided wire taps to connect the ground, light, and dimmer to the stock headlight switch.
Ground black gauge wire to brown headlight wire (position 6 on harness connector)
Switched 12V red gauge wire to black/purple headlight wire (position 4 on harness connector)
Dimmer yellow gauge wire to gray headlight wire (position 10 on harness connector)
The issue I am seeing mainly is when the car is idle and not under load, the gauge is reading around -10 hg where everything I have been reading states that the vacuum should be around 20 hg (+ - 3). I also notice that when I rev the engine the gauge will only go up to 0. When I drive in sport mode and get on the gas, I will see a spike up to 11 lbs. I just finished the install about 30 min. ago and it is pretty dark out so I haven't had a chance to check for boost leaks. I am not tuned but the car was tuned at one point before I purchased the car according to the VIN scan when I go to the dealership for service. I am assuming that I am not tuned because from what I read, a tune will disable the rev limiter.
View 5 Replies
Think I need a new battery in my key ad it's been acting up a bit. I am sitting in my car right now, key won't lock or unlock doors and I can't stop the engine.
View 24 Replies
Engine is frozen. Not moving stuck. Spark plugs were full of water on each one of the 6. At least the insurance company covers it. Do you think it would be good to do 3.6 swap or is it too much hassle?
View 2 Replies
I am going to VIR in a couple of weeks and wanted to see at what point is engine oil too hot? As well as engine temps? As far as I know there are no oil coolers yet? I guess if it gets too hot it will go into limp mode but wanted to stop before I reached that point.
View 24 Replies
I noticed this Squeak sound from the engine bay when i give it any gas, doesn't matter what gear your in but you can hear it the most in second gear.
Only mods to my car are as follows
-cai
-apr chip
-milltek catback
View 10 Replies
I noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.
View 9 Replies
The fans in the engine bay wont turn off. As long as the car is on they run. they do turn off when the car is off.
View 10 Replies
Car was warming up and I went to "check" the oil. As soon as I pulled the dipstick out a little all I heard was a sucking type sound and then the engine started to shake and make sounds like it was bogging down. Almost like it wasnt getting enough air. As soon as the dip stick went back into the motor, things became normal again. I tried one more time in order to see whats up as this is the first time something like this has happened. Same exact thing. Engine started to shake and make gagging noises until i put the dipstick back in.
View 24 Replies
Yesterday when I started up the engine it cut out and died on me a number of times. The engine would start but it would not hold the idle for more than about 10 seconds, then it would quickly drop down to about 500rpm and die. It felt like it was starved for fuel. I pressed on the accelerator to try and give it more gas, but it was a bit unresponsive. Car did this for about 5 or 6 times and then on the last time I was able to give it gas and keep the rpm up around 2,000, then it went back to working normally.
Car was warmed up and it had been parked for about an hour after a prior 30 minutes of normal driving.
There were no error codes thrown up or messages on the dash. Is this a sign of something that I need to be concerned about? Where would I even start looking for a problem? If this a something that would be covered under warranty I want find it sooner than later so I can get it fixed while I still have coverage.
Car is a 2012 MK6 GTI DSG with 17,000 mi.
View 9 Replies
I have a new 2015 VW Golf TSI Auto, it only has about 1200kms on it. This morning my girlfriend was driving it to the train station and the "EPC" and engine light both came on, she said it was very sluggish after that. I went to pickup the car and it drove normally without any lights on to the dealer - they told me to just monitor it and if it comes back on then I should schedule an appointment. I am just worried because this car is brand new.
View 19 Replies
During the winter you have to warm up the car before driving. I have always avoided those after market remote starters and just went out, start the car and lock it with the other key (2 last cars were Passats). the GTI wont let me lock it. This is stupid I am not going to sit in the car and freeze for 15 minutes, is there no way to change this with the menu settings?
View 8 Replies
