My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
View 4 RepliesMy R32 is stock, 60K miles. On neutral, i realise that my motor shake just a little bit at 1000RPM, lower and higher, no prob.
I try to start slowly on 1st and 2rd gear, no prob. No vibration when i use the car normally. I think it's not my flywheel. Probably my spark plug or my coil pack.
Getting a loud rattling noise from the front of car in Park or Neutral? As soon as I put the car in D/M. I have heard that the transmission is noisy in neutral, but just want to double check.
View 8 RepliesI've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
View 2 RepliesI have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
View 7 Replies2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
View 2 Replies My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
I have cleaned the IAC, adjusted the TPS, Removed/Cleaned/Re-installed the TB, No MAP problem. I also removed the "black box" and checked the cold idle control diaphragm as best I could. I cannot find any specs on testing this. When I apply vacuum to it via the center port on the bottom it holds the vacuum, but takes approx 5 seconds for the diaphragm to "pop" to its ambient state after releasing vacuum.
I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
The title says it all. I have no CEL.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
I have an 07 F150 xl 2wd 5speed. It has a vibration/shake at about 30-45 mph no matter if its in gear or neutral, or if its under throttle or not. It also gets a little worse when breaking coming down from about 45-30mph.
I was thinking at first it was the wheels out of balance since it was only at a certain mph range but the braking thing has me thinking rotors. The truck has about 51000 miles on it.
Having an intermittent problem when starting the car.
The car quickly shutting off right after starting while still in Park.
It does not do it all the time, but about every 3rd of 4th start attempt it will do this. If I step on the accelerator, I can avoid the car from shutting off.
The car has 62k miles and spark plugs were replaced at 50k.
I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
Two weeks ago I pick up our 08 460 SWB , with 24,300 miles on the car ...
I noticed today while in park standing and waiting for my wife to come out the nail Solon ..the car had this very mild tremble / shake ...and sounded like a belt under the hood was loose .. Something like a rotating fan sound loud but not that loud to make a big stink out of... When I drove off and came to a stop sign I pressed the breaks and RPM's went from 1,100 to 1,300 and back down when the car was at full stop??
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
I had the battery checked. Good battery. No codes via regular obd 2 scanner.
2002 passat B5.5 1.8t 5speed.
2x while stopped downhill it shutdown.
Also sometimes has hard starts.
when that happens I get the EPC light light up.
cel is on anyway from p0420 (cat)
If I shut it down and turn it on, maybe after 2-3 tries itll come on. What could it be?
I'm beginning to have trouble with my 2004 Prius starting after hitting the button. The red triangle comes on and it will only go to park or neutral, I can't get the car to go off after pressing the start button, after a few minutes it does something then I'm able to drive . I've had this happen probably 3-4 times in the last 6 months.
As of right now the car has 356,000 miles on it. I'm guessing it might be the 12v battery. Since, I put about maybe 300miles a week on it compared to his 1-2,000 /week we were hoping this car might last at least till the other is paid off.
After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
View 15 RepliesDealer advised the following procedure for parking car:
1. Come to a stop, foot on break
2. Put car into Neutral, make sure Neutral is lit up
3. Then press the Park button.
They said this is better for transmission. Didn't see a mention of it in the manual, and have no problem doing this. Or are you just coming to a stop and then hitting the Park button, skipping the Neutral step?
Last night while driving home in the rain, I cleared the windows with the wipers, and lowered the rear passenger window so that my dog could have air. I then proceeded to drive. I then lowered and raised my drivers side window and the passenger window to clear them of rain drops so that I would have an unobstructed view. I turned off the wipers, as it was only misting and then closed the rear passenger window. About 3 minutes later, I wanted to wipe off the windshield again, however, the wipers would not come on. I then played with the window buttons trying to open them, but they would not open, and the interior lights would not come on. However, the doors would lock and unlock. I thought for a second, maybe the anti-theft system engaged somehow. By this time I was sitting at an intersection - at a red light, waiting to turn left. I shut the car off, to see if something in the vehicles' computer system needed to reset itself. I waited a couple of seconds, and then restarted the engine.
By this time, the light had turned green, however, I could not get the car to switch from park to drive. I tried numerous times, but to no avail, the vehicle was stuck in park. To make a long story short, a while later after the police came, one of the officers googled the problem for a 2002 Ford F-150 truck on his car computer. He found that the vechicle had to be turned off to where the dashboard lights were on, foot pressed on the brake, and only then could the gear be switched into neutral in order to be started. Only after going through this routine was I able to shift the vehicle into drive. This is the first time this problem has ever occured. The vehicle has138,500 miles.