This place Michigan is now 28F and raining this morning, so road is very icy. So I was driving about 40mph and tried to stop at traffic light, of course I slid little bit then finally it worked!!!
I tried to play with snow, and tried to apply brake hard to make ABS work, it was low speed like 10~20mph, but emergency light did not blink. I guess the speed have to be more than 30 mph or something.
I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
View 19 RepliesThis might be a dumb question but the light for my overdrive is blinking and it won't stop. I tried pushing the button on the end of the shifter but it still blinks. No codes are triggered. This is on my 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I haven't check the fluid level yet. Just got home from an exhausting trip. Here is a picture.
With it on ....
With it off ....
I have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
View 3 RepliesAfter a full complete stop or slow down to almost complete stop upon acceleration from that stop or slow down my dash brake light blinks and yells at me for the standard amount of time then goes away. It only does it upon acceleration its weird its almost instantaneous with me pressing the gas pedal. No squealing noise or anything else is coming from the rotors and everything feels normal its just starting to get annoying as hell.
About 6 months ago I replaced my pads and rotors with the drilled and slotted kit performance-cafe offers and had it professionally installed because, I'm lazy and it would have take me years to do it. This problem only started recently so I'm pretty sure its something else or something went bad. What I should check or have specifically looked at if I take it in?
I've generally gotten used to trusting the car to maintain distance and slow down autonomously with DRCC. However today I'm not sure I trust it completely.
View 19 RepliesI was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.
View 3 RepliesI would like to know if its ok for me to top up the brake fluid on my r32.
Ok, my brake warning light is blinking, I've researched and found that either I need to top up the brake fluid or fluid level is low due to brake pad wear.
My car has 56k miles and by just looking at the pad I think it has plenty of life, maybe half worn.
So, should I just top up the fluid or do I need to just change the pad? Someone told me if I top up the fluid and change pad later fluid will over flow..
So my brake light on my dash is on. The other morning when I started my car the like came on blinking with only 3 beeps. No more beeping after that just blinking. Now it has been doing this every time I start my car since (3 beeps and blinking). My abs light is also on but it has been on for years. I checked the brake fluid and it is full. I also never use my ebrake because it doesn't work so this shouldn't be the problem.
View 3 RepliesI parked my 2010 gti at work this morning, walked away, hit the lock button, and noticed a red light on the drivers door that flashed rapidly then kept on blinking steadily indefinitely. i never noticed that before! so... what is that? the alarm? this may be REALLY dumb, but I did not know this car had an alarm!
View 3 RepliesIt's the same every time. forty minutes into a drive and the TPMS light starts blinking. It blinks for about three minutes and then goes solid. After two minutes or so the light goes off completely. Every time I check, my tire pressure is perfect. I carry a good analog gauge with me and monitor pressure obsessively.
View 4 RepliesI just got my car back from the dealer last night (the 4th time it's been in for service in under three months of ownership, pathetic). When I turned the car on this morning I got a blinking icon on the odometer. The icon is the same as the low tire pressure icon except the MFD doesn't show air pressure is low and the icon is flashing for the first minute or so. I checked out the tires anyway. When I tried to unscrew the valve cover the metal piece came right off leaving the inner rubber portion stuck over the valve stem. This was the same scenario for 3 of my 4 wheels. I'm assuming one of the fools from the service department put a death grip on the caps after refilling the tires (part of the "full circle service, tires/tpms had nothing to do with why my car was in). My question is, why this light is on? The pressure isn't low and there is nothing wrong with the way it drives. I'm stumped and don't want to have to bring my car back in. [IMG][URL]....
View 24 RepliesI have an 02 GTI w/ 1.8t and 5spd. I was in the drive through and all of the sudden the ABS, ASR, and seatbelt lights came on and the battery light is randomly blinking. I got home turned the car off and went to restart it and when I turn the key nothing happens. I should also mention I recently have 2 cels for p0701 lean condition and bank 1&3 misfires that developed after I replaced a bad injector. Where do I even start?
View 1 RepliesThis morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.
Our R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
View 10 Replies2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
View 1 RepliesSo my oil light was blinking on 03 jetta 1.8t for a week or so because of the cold temps where i am once my car reaches temp if you turn off the car and turn it back on my light stays off. i had a oil change recently hubby did that plus i had all my fluids checked and had to have my dipstick tube replaced because it broke.
I had a mechanic who lives in my complex take a look at the car and he said everything is running fine. So today I started my car then my oil light went on again it has been a lot colder than the past few days could that be the reason? My cars not overheating at all but once it gets to temp if you shut and turn the car back on the light goes away. My car only has 88 thousand miles on it and we used the proper oil for the oil change..
I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
When I look back into the rear view the top brake light isn't a solid light, it keeps blinking but sometimes it won't blink and just have a solid light. Also, my friend pointed out to me that both of my reverse lights arenot even coming on. I suspect a loose wire somewhere. Where should I look? Or something else?
View 5 RepliesI've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.