Golf V R32 :: EVOMS Intake - Noise Pipe Delete?
Dec 23, 2009
I just got my MkV R and I'm loving it. Quick question - with the EVOMS intake, does that come with the noise pipe delete? Or do I have to order the A3 MAF pipe and attach that to the EVOMS intake? And which is better? EVOMS or VF? Is one intake louder than the other?
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I undertook this maintenance as a preventive measure, and to see if I could bump up the gas mileage a bit. After reassembly, when I try to start it up, the engine runs for 1-2 seconds, and stops, and I get a "Check Hybrid System" error. The engine will not restart. I'm trying to figure out where I screwed things up. Right now I might have to get it towed to a shop.
I bought the Prius used last month, and it's at 151K miles. I've driven it about 800 miles since I've owned it. It had been running perfectly fine, with no check engine lights or symptoms. The scheduled maintenance items were all caught up. I had spark plugs changed, engine coolant changed, transaxle fluid changed at the famous Luscious Garage several week ago, and they said the car was in good shape. They actually recommended NOT cleaning the EGR pipe/manifold/throttle body or replacing the PCV valve if there were no symptoms or check engine lights. They said not to worry about it until symptoms occur - probably to save money. Maybe I should have listened to them, but I liked the ideal of things running perfectly.
I used information from the "missing under light throttle" and other intake manifold cleaning threads and a couple pdfs on throttle body removal and intake manifold removal from the 2010 Toyota Prius Repair Manual that Mendel Leisk had attached to another thread. I generally followed the repair manual, except for not disconnecting stuff that didn't have to be disconnected, like the coolant hoses on the throttle body. That is to say, with the manual pdfs in front of me, I'm pretty sure I didn't forget to reconnect any connectors or hoses when reassembling.
A moderate amount of dry, sooty carbon material was in the EGR pipe. I cleaned that out. The port leading to the EGR valve assembly was also filled with that dry soot, and I cleaned that out with a pipe cleaner, used dry, since I didn't want to create a sticky clog in the valve. I stuck a vacuum cleaner to that port afterwards, in case I had pushed soot back towards the valve with the pipe cleaner.
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Just noticed my 2012 didn't come with a noise pipe. Did VW stop installing these for the 2012s?
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My car started make a weird chatter noise. The noise was never there before I swapped out the plastic coolant pipe with the billet crack pipe.
Car info : Stock flash, flapper open, EVOMs intake, 46k miles
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I recently noticed a rattling coming from my intake manifold and with little research I discovered it was the intake shifter rod. I ordered the new updated bushings and installed them today and the rod continues to rattle just as bad. My car only has 90k and I am unsure what to do to fix the noise. I am hesitant to order a whole new shifter rod because it could be the manifold itself too worn. I am just curious if there is anything that I may have overlooked or if there is anything I can do.
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:
ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)
3 inch open downpipe
Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)
Short ram intake+heat sheild.
Spring loaded wastegate.
So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.
I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.
The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"
I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.
I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).
Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?
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How to SAI delete? The check engine is annoying so i would like to delete whole SAI system i think its cheaper to delete SAI than buying new pump but in first whats the parts i should buy " SAI-delete " kit that i must purchase before i start deleting? i have 2004 mk4 r32 and its N/A with Milltek cat back non resonated.
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Looking for a detailed SAI delete?
I see all the hoses and vacuum lines and I guess I'm unsure what lines to remove and which to keep.
I see the black box under the manifold has a vacuum line that goes to the flapper on the intake manifold I still want that functional.
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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I am looking at buying a MKIV R32 and it's in great condition, almost completely stock, and less than 50k miles on it. Although It has the flapper mod, and resonator delete mod installed. I know how to undo the flapper mod, but I was wondering how I could undo the resonator mod.
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I have the CBFA motor, and i am getting getting the p0420 error code. I have read two related threads here and here about p0420 codes and different downpipes. It seems the AWE and Nuespeed seem to be better for getting around CEL without additional flashes. I currently have purchased and installed one RAI straight O2 spacer (after the cat) and have tried both the medium and smallest insert but after clearing the CEL it has returned both times with the same code. Do i need two O2 spacers, one installed with the smallest insert and another with a different size? Trying to make sense of all the posts.
I am unitronic stage 1, before going stage two i want to have the CEL under control so i can downgrade the flash and not trip CEL for smog.
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Putting a straight pipe from the cat back on 1.8T mk4? I was thinking going 2.5 inches from the cat back with a tip. But I wanna know how loud it is.
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The other day I decelerated rapidly. I didn't slam on the brakes, but I went from maybe 45mph to 0 in maybe 40 feet or so. When the car stopped, the CEL came on. No apparent issues at the time so I drove it the last few miles home. I checked under the hood with the engine running and heard a whistling noise which I tracked to the plastic pipe connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster. I didn't take a picture of it, but it is the one that has a silver heat wrap on part of it where it passes close to the throttle body. I grabbed a random pic online that kinda shows it.
R32 bay pic by isaacpettit, on Flickr
I believe this pipe feeds air from the intake manifold to charge the brake booster? If this was the case, I thought possible by hitting the brakes harder than usual the back pressure at the check valve was enough to burst the plastic pipe, which may have been heated, stressed already? Then the vacuum leak caused the CEL?
What is the actual purpose of that pipe. The car is well maintained with recent service and just over 30K miles.
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I started my car up this morning for work and I noticed it sounded a little different almost like a little more gurgle then usual. I walked behind the car and saw white smoke coming from the left exhaust. The smoke wasn't incredibly white like a cloud but was definitely noticeable i think it smelt like gas or oil I'm not sure (stuffy nose got me some allergies) . After about 10 ish seconds everything was back to normal. What could this be if anything? Hopefully nothing tho.
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Just walked by the back end of my new Prius III and heard what sounded like a electric motor running from the general area of the exhaust pipe at the right rear end of the car. This was about 5 hours after I last drove it.
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I recently put a fmic on my mk4 and a 3" dp... My question was : any kind or heat wrap on the down pipe or intercooler piping? I also didn't know if painting the ic pipes with ceramic paint would keep the temp down.
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I have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with a rusted out flex pipe. The leak is causing a bad smell and also a lot of noise -- What's my best option to replace the downpipe (but also other parts if need be) without having to weld it?
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Mine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
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Come out to the this am and notice a small puddle that was not there last night. Pull the car out and it's start burning something off. Roll the car in first thought is oil (maybe the turbo return line is leaking) no its coolant. On the lower portion of the down pipe and running across the bottom. I'm at a loss as where the leak could be coming from being back there.
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I installed a usp test pipe a while back and I noticed a hissing sound coming out from my cluster right after the install. I have seemed to ignore the sound but now its getting to me.
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