So I was driving on the freeway and i hit a somewhat small bump in the road. I noticed that my ESP light flashed then turned off. This is normal correct?
View 9 RepliesI was driving my car when suddenly I felt a huge shudder and my engine light flashed on. I turned a corner to head into a parking lot and as I accelerated my car seemed to be jerking like it was cutting out. I parked and tried revving it and it sounds all deep and gurgly not smooth. What could be wrong and is it safe to drive the 5 miles back to my house.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1989 BMW 635csi. Usually runs great. Driving down the freeway yesterday, the car started to run rough and the yellow ABS light came on. I slowed, the car ran smoothly, but then the ABS light would come on. By accelerating or decelerating, the light would go off. But in stop & go traffic, the engine ran very roughly and I smelled unburnt or poorly burnt exhaust. Took it to the BMW place today. Runs great. They cannot duplicate the problem.
View 2 RepliesSo I was leaving work when my car starting beeping and the coolant low light flashed. I shut the car off and popped the hood to find my coolant level almost to the bottom of the reservior. I figured I would just keep an eye on the temp as I drove home and it stayed right at 190 just like from day one. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump was leaking. I just turned 4k miles on the way there!! What gives? He said it was not uncommon for the pump to start a leak, but was pretty uncommon to leak so soon. He said it is probably due to a bad cast of the pump. I really like this car and I hope it is not a sign of things to come.
View 14 RepliesI parked my 2010 gti at work this morning, walked away, hit the lock button, and noticed a red light on the drivers door that flashed rapidly then kept on blinking steadily indefinitely. i never noticed that before! so... what is that? the alarm? this may be REALLY dumb, but I did not know this car had an alarm!
View 3 RepliesCAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
View 8 RepliesBeen really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
I have a 2001 jetta 2.0 engine with only 130k on it. Yesterday I replaced the battery and everything was fine but then today as I started it up to go to work I started moving and the check engine light was flashing for catalyst damage. I heard that sometimes coil packs will pop if you change the battery.
View 1 RepliesI was driving on the freeway and the trac and engine lights came on.. Noticed that I am no longer getting the Eco light when coasting. Ran the codes and it's P0157 and C1201. I have recently changed tires, not sure what other reason can cause the lights.
View 14 RepliesCode 0341 (cam sensor?)On my way home epc light flashed about 5-7 times and message saying service engine. 111,000 miles and just had intake manifold replaced and plugs and coils not to long ago. I have been feeling a slight hiccup at cruising speed and twice my gti has just shut off while driving. New fuel filter as well. I searched the forum and didn't come up with anything specific. Can I just replace the cam sensor or is there more to it than that.
View 1 RepliesI was driving on the freeway(70mph), when a loud pop noise (sound of a blown tire.) Felt like a wheel bearing seized up then felt rough on the road. Got off the freeway and everything looked normal from the outside. No smell/smoke. While driving home on the back roads, i was hearing a rattle from the trunk area.
Lifted the car and noticed a little bit of fluid on the front of the differential. Didn't find any leaks or puddles. Took the fuse out for the haldex, and drove it around, still feels the same but still hear the rattle. Hoping its not the differential but haven't drained any fluid yet.
Ok, well never mind. brake system locked up on me.
OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2015 Hyundai Accent, and haven't had any problems with it whatsoever until this past weekend. I was driving with my Mom, driving her around to do errands, when all of the warning lights on the instrument panel flashed and then disappeared. My trip indicator also reset, even though I hadn't been using it at the time - I usually keep that button on the gas mile screen (the one that tells you how many miles you have left until you need to get gas). But when the lights flashed, the gas mile screen disappeared and reset to the first screen (the one for the trip indicator, which had gone back to zero abruptly). I'm not sure why this has happened. The car didn't stop or anything like that. I was actively going down the road at the time, going a decent speed. The only thing out of the ordinary was that there was a traffic helicopter above us (this was in an area that tracks speed by air radar), and I wonder if this happened because the helicopter hit us with the radar?
View 7 RepliesWell this past week I have been getting the ESP light lit in my cluster during my weekly commutes. 1st: My car is a 2005 05 V8 model with 96K miles. The ESP light resets every time when the car is turned off and comes on after driving (varies), no hard CEL triggering with the condition. I notice yesterday that the ESP light comes on faster when I am coming up a hill. Yesterday when I started out on flat ground the light was off most of the trip (about 10 miles), it wasn't until I hit the hill on my way home that it illuminated (the final mile of my trip). One other major symptom, the Cruise Control does not "SET"; Cruise turns on and I see the indicator in the cluster, but when I hit the set function, it doesn't set the speed control. This happens both before and after the ESP light illuminates.
I have a VAD Pro and I ran a scan, both at the halt and on the move, the ESP light does NOT throw out a DTC in the ABS module or any others. However, their is one persistent fault that reoccurs (00526), faulty brake light switch; the Ross Tech site stated this is normal in some Automatic transmissions; if you do not push the brake pedal before the scan. My brake lights work fine & I understand their is two sets of contacts in the switch. Again, this DTC (00526) does not set the CEL. But, I am not ruling out a faulty brake light switch.
I performed a Goggle search and found an Audi A8 with an ESP issue, one of the members pointed to hydraulic unit under the hood , here is the link. [URL] ....
This A8 owner says a new brake light switch fixed his vehicle, and the cruise control was also not working as a symptom. [URL] ....
So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
It was driving me crazy that the red triangle warning light (master warning light) flashed for only a split second, once per day, two days in a row.
I drive 100 miles per day. My 2004 Prius has 136K miles.
It turned out to be low motor oil level, 1.75 quarts low.
My car is burning about one quart every 5K miles which probably is within the normal range for a 136K car.