I keep trying to go on ecs tuning and the home page is fine but when I try to go into other parts it takes ages and sometimes says an error occured and does not work...
View 2 RepliesI'm moving from Long Island (~0' above sea level) to Denver (~5280' above sea level). I know engines with a carburetor need a tuneup to compensate for the decreased air pressure so it doesn't run rich, but will I need to do anything special ( e.g. tuneup) to my car for proper performance? I don't really expect to because the computer should properly adjust, but I figured I'd see if maybe I should.
View 4 RepliesBasically one of my keys will only intermittently work on the doors (always works for ignition and the hatch). As soon as I use the remote, the KESSY re-syncs or something and then it works for a little and then after some period of time (say from when I leave my car in the morning until I go to leave work in the evening) it eventually won't work again. Its not the battery, the dealer already reprogrammed all the keys, and its just this particular key, the other seems to always work.
View 24 Replies2015 GTI, my intermittent wipers work intermittently, sometimes yes, sometime no. A days driving in the rain and I had to switch to low speed for wiping many many times, maybe 10th time they worked as they are supposed to. Shut off for refuel and back to non working.
View 9 RepliesI recently just got an R32, from a local guy in town. I love the car, and have driven it sparingly as I am still waiting on the title from the bank. As for now I'm doing the usual used car shake down.
I am having problems getting the gauge cluster lights to come on with the head lights. Sometimes when I move it over a bump or two it turns on. Sometimes the trick is to open and close the doors a few times it shakes the car into turning on the dash lights.
I know I have an electrical short somewhere, and I am not sure where to begin diagnosing this problem. Is it the switch? A bad connection to the gauge cluster? A bad wire? I've already pulled the switch and cleaned all the contacts. What else should I do?
I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
My sunroof opens and closes correctly. but when in the closed position it will be sunken into the cabin of the car a few MM not sealing to the body of the car tightly. how do I fine tune the sunroof to sit flush with the body when closed? some kind of adjustment screws?
View 4 RepliesWeird issue on my MK4 GTI. So it started out just as the rear windshield sprayer would work intermittently. Then the same happened to the front one. Then sometimes the rear windshield wiper would just come on by itself when hitting bumps on the highway. Now sometimes the front windshield wipers won't work, the rear doesn't work at all, and neither sprayers work.
So, where's best to start? I figured maybe the toggle switch is worn out. I haven't looked to see how hard it is to get out/test. I assume there's some linkage or wires I can get to once I remove the trim under the steering wheel to do a simple continuity test and see if the switch is working. Or would relays cause this? I wouldn't think that many relays could fail this quickly while running at normal voltages...
My 2012 Camry 2.4L is sometimes dangerously slow when accelerating from a stop. Totally intermittent. I can put my foot in the gas pedal and the car takes its sweet time getting up to speed. Almost like trying to start in 2nd gear in a standard transmission vehicle. I've had the torque converter software patch.
To be honest with you, this is a huge safety issue. Not sure I can trust my car to accelerate. My car has 44k miles and I've done all the scheduled maintenance and run only top tier fuel.
I have a 2004 Durango 5.7 liter hemi that is having (has always had) intermittent idle problems. My parents were the original owners, and from the beginning, the car would die when you slow down to a stop. This doesn't happen every time you slow down, but probably 1-3 times per day. It doesn't seem to be temperature related, as it happens all year and when the car is warm or cold. My parents had it into the dealership numerous times and they couldn't figure it out. My husband has changed plugs and wires, used a variety of injector cleaners and there is no engine light and no fault codes. This is so frustrating! I might drive around all day with no problem than slow down/stop at a light to have it die.
View 2 Replies2011 SEL 4Motion w/ 2500 miles.
The tranny thumps sometimes at low speed to the point where I sometimes think I have been rear ended. It's the worst in stop and go traffic, shortly after coming to stop there is a thump.
Another way I can get it to do it is at a stop, let foot off brake most of the way, not all the way, but still enough where the car doesnt move. Then push the pedal back to the floor, there is a large thump...WHY! Driving me crazy. Something with the torque converter?
Also, is it not possible to let your foot off the brake and not have the car jerk forward without even stepping on the accelerator?
Metal on metal rubbing sound when starting off from a stop at slow speeds? It seems like it is brake related because putting on the brakes stops the noise. The noise also seems to go away when you get a little more speed, and maybe when the it shifts from 1st to 2nd ? This also is intermittent.
View 2 RepliesMy 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
View 13 RepliesOn my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
I have a 94' sierra with a 350 cubic inch TBI. I've already replaced the thermostat, spark plugs, clutch and had the oil changed. when I bought it it looked like the plug wires and distributor cap had already been replaced recently. the big question is, other than replacing the air filter (which doesn't look like its in to bad of shape) what else should I look at doing to tune it up a bit? this is my daily driver/work/scrap hauling truck so I want to keep it running well and for a long time. there was a small metal hose that ran from my intake to the heat shield around my exhaust that got mangled pretty bad and just removed, what was it for and is it worth the expense to replace it? also I've seen ads for throttle body spacers, are they worth it? and would I need to make any changes to the ECU at all if I put one on or even put performance headers on it?
View 13 RepliesOn cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 JGC Limited with the 4.7 v8 quadra drive 4x4. Since it got cold out, my blower motor for heat will not come on until the vehicle has been running for a while. Sometimes as long as 30 minutes. Eventually it does come on and seems to work OK. It works the same way if its on auto or on manual- high or low speed settings.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 prius, lost audio, radio seems to be tuning the stations ok, just getting no sound.
View 6 RepliesI have purchased this front brake kit from ECS tuning and installed them on My 2006 Passat, After I installed them and took for test drive and initial breaking is good better that before bat notice some squeaking when rolling slowly like before stop light, only on light applying break pedal not if I have to hard break, I said maybe they need too wear in or so... It now more that month and squeaking is becoming worse. Is it bad kit or something else that causes this problem...?
View 1 RepliesSadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
Tranny loses all gears forward and reverse intermittently. I turn ignition off and on a couple times and everything is fine. It might be electrical because when I take key out of ignition and get out of car my power windows and radio are still working.
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