Golf V R32 :: Driver Side Door Lock Sticking?
Oct 9, 2013
I just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
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My driver's side door lock module isn't working, are all MK4s the same or is it particular to R32? Would MK4 jetta module work on golf? I've found a bunch of different part numbers so I'm confused what I should be looking for...
Also is this harming the car after starting? I know it doesn't prime the fuel pump, but will it adversely effect anything if I don't fix it?
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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On occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
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My driver side rear door won't lock any way that I try to lock it. I have tried to lock it by using the lock/unlock contol button that locks or unlocks all of the doors at one time on the inside of the drivers door and it won't lock. I have tried to lock it by pushing the rubber button on the outside of the drivers door and it won't lock.
I am unable to move the lock button next to door handle in the inside of the door on the rear drivers side door. Which led me to check the child lock lever that one can see when they open the door. Moving child lock lever doesn't do anything either way it is set to change the problem. Also I am able to open the door from the outside or the inside.
All other doors lock and unlock properly. My question is when there is an actuator motor problem does that make it so that one is unable to move the lock/unlock button on the inside of that door?
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All other doors lock and unlock except drivers door. The drivers door can only be locked unlocked manually with your hand.
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I can't seem to lock my driver's side door via my key fob anymore. It locks all the other doors. When I press the lock button, I can hear the other doors lock and no beeping sound. There is a light blinking on my dash according to the manual the accessory mode light is blinking. I How do I shut it off? I've turned the car on by pressing the power button and pressing the brake then shut if off normally by pressing the power button.
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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I've had my 2013 for about 1.5 years and I've had the cold lock issue repeatedly as I'm sure anyone in a cold climate has had (once where every single door was frozen and I couldn't even use the damn thing until it got warmer). Now the drivers door won't lock. It shuts and the latch engages, but it won't lock. The alarm enables when I click to lock (not really, but the led flashes red), but you can just pull open the drivers door. The alarm doesn't sound. It's been above freezing for at least the last week here...
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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I have a similar door rattle near the door lock area on the driver's side. It sounds like metal touching metal. I took the door panel off and found nothing loose or unusual. The rattle is driving me crazy.
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So, I am sitting at the dealership waiting for my car to get worked on. The door lock on my driver side isn't working.
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My driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
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I have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and for the last year, I've had a door lock issue. My driver's side door lock will not lock the door. It sometimes engages it slightly so I don't think it is electrical. It happened after I accidentally left the windows cracked during summer and there was a huge t-storm from which some rain water got on the door lock mechanism. Could it be the door lock actuator or perhaps a spring got loose?
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I have had this Elantra for over 7 years now and it has given me faultless service - up to now. Some months ago I noticed that when I operated my personal locking key, the drivers side lock would not operate. More recently, this problem seems to be getting worse. Its not a problem leaving the car as I can manually operate the switch but opening the front door requires me to crawl in from the rear door to unlock it. When I operate the door lock with the key, I see the lock attempting to move but remains in its position. I've tried several alternatives like using my wife's keys but the system remains resolute. By the way, where is the antenna that receives signals from the key?
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Its an electrical issue.
I have a couple issues that have been bothering me lately. The drivers door lock is intermittent to lock when trying to lock it with the remote or the auto locking when going a certain speed. To get it to lock, I either have to unlock the entire car with the door switch then it will lock with the switch, or unlocking the car with the remote before hitting the lock button. It will also relock itself even if I opened the door and is sitting in the seat, just like if you unlock it and don't open the door it relocks.
My car alarm horn is not working, either with the alarm going off, in panic mode, or when hitting the lock button twice.
I also am having issues with the drivers side window, the only way it goes down is if you press the button all the way down to automatically go all the way down. If I try to go down without going all the way, when I press the button it goes up.
And last but not least, after replacing a wheel bearing last night when I got home, the interior light wouldn't work with the door until I locked it and unlocked it with the key but afterwards it worked again
The car is a 2000 1.8t with 221,000 miles auto no modifications except euroswitch.
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2007 XLS with Nav. The driver side door lock won't automatically lock. It still unlocks fine but it will not lock via the remote or when I put the car in gear.
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Just curious if this has been an issue for Avalons. My driver side rear door lock has not been functioning whether it be with the FOB or using the power door lock button. Requires manually locking/unlocking. How to determine the cause?
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After weeks of receiving an alert about my battery being low on my key fob I finally replaced the battery. But the drivers side door won't lock. The car does start, and even after you put it in reverse the doors still won't lock.
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2008 Camry: The remote will lock all doors but the driver's side;BUT; the remote will unlock all 4 doors.
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