Golf V R32 :: Dead Alternator At 16,000 Miles?
Feb 6, 2010
So, upon taking my car in for a dead wheel and tire due to pothole incident, I was told that my alternator needs to be replaced. I am in a bit of shock as the car is only 2 years old and only has 16,000 miles.
The service advisor that I spoke with states that it could break as a result of charging a dead battery. This confounds me more, as I thought jump starting a car was not an operation that would take out an alternator.
Luckily this is a repair covered under warranty, whether or not this was a valid reasoning for the failure or an alternator. If so, what have been supposed to do if battery dies?
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Happy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
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The GX has 49k and I have not even owned/driven it for 400 miles when the alternator craps out. I am not really pissed since its a used car and these things happen. Good thing Carmax has a 30day warranty. They towed it to their shop and replaced it with a new alternator. The customer service was great and they gave me a 6month/6000 mile warranty on it too. My German cars had at least 80k before their alternators crapped out
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Battery is dead.You jump start the car.You let it run for an hour.
Does this kill the alternator?How exactly does the alternator work harder?It's spinning at the same rate.
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I had to have a new alternator put in my SEL this weekend after being stranded in Maryland. Was on my way back to Pittsburgh and the alternator light came on and slowly lost all electronics. Roadside Assistance towed it to Hagerstown where I waited for a day to get the part in. Could it have been caused by a oil leak from my oil filter that happened back in July?
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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Went to run errands today, and noticed a slight hitch in the engine cranking... I'm on a brand new battery that isn't even a year old, so it seemed a bit odd. After running the first errand, the hitch in the cranking got a lot bigger and I noticed the voltmeter was reading lower than normal. In addition, lights, HVAC motor, radio, and even brake lights would move the needle. To me this says my alternator isn't working...at all.
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Recently, my radiator fan stopped working. Its a 2013 Elantra GLS with 54K Miles on it. Summers are scorching in my region (hovering around 50 C so I take extra care anyway. Was surprised to find out one such scorching afternoon that the fan stopped working so even the A/C failed. Took it to the mechanic, who diagnosed and said the fan motor is spoil. I was hoping it was the temperature sensor.
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My daugther 2002 Volvo V50 blow an engine because of the time belt slipped She had only had less than 75000 and was relgious about her mx checkups timely and by only Volvo Mechanics. She is a Service member in Gemany and the Germany dealer say there is nothing she can do. How to get this engine replaced or even credit for a new volvo. The Engine is gone and the mechanic said 7000 Euro. The car blue book at 9500 Euro.
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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I've got the the alternator workshop on my screen and the battery light, again. I've replaced the battery (it was bad) and it drove fine for about 15 min then it came back again. Now it comes back under load (accelerating, revving). The car starts fine now but after a lil but of driving, the car idles high (1k rpm) instead of the 500-700 rpm. I turn the car off and it will go back to the normal idle. I've obviously read about a poss bad alternator but I've read about loose alternator belts. Fixing this issue with tightening the belt or has everyone just replaced the alternator?
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
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Since it rained here in Socal today...i got the dreaded "Alternator Workshop" message on my console...It showed up for a split sec just enough time for me to read it. I had just finish installing my Evoms Vflow intake so I started my car and rev'd a few times before the message showed up. It quickly disappeared right after it showed up. I've been reading that the belt could be wet from the rain causing this message or definitely my alternator is bad.
What should I be checking to make sure everything is ok? My car only has 41k miles and it has been sitting for almost 2 weeks.
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Don't know know the cause of this message. From what I've been able to find, it sounds like a serpentine belt.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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Short version is that my battery is not staying charged. I drive the car daily and am not having any serious issues except for having to put a charger on overnight about once a month or so since this past winter. The current battery (Optima red top) has never gone dead and has been more reliable than the original, it just cranks progressively slower each time I start the car until the day comes that I decide to put the charger on again.
All the lights flicker and dim when driving at night, and have been like that for a few years. When it began, I had the charging system checked three separate times. Once at the dealership who told me everything was fine, once at an Advance Auto who said all was well except for there being an above normal load on the battery with the engine/all accessories off , and once at an alternator/electric motor specialist who said all was well except that the alternator was not capable of generating enough to keep the battery charged long term. They said if I ever got stuck in traffic and sat at idle with the ac/stereo on for an extended period that I shouldn't shut it off since I may not have enough power to crank it again . At first I thought they were going to suggest that I have them repair/rebuild/upgrade it somehow, but they really had no interest in doing so.
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