Golf V R32 :: Crank Forever Until Low Oil Pressure Warning Come Up But Won't Start
May 24, 2013
My '08 R32 with less than 40k mi. will not start. The car ran fine earlier one day, then after it was parked for a few hours the engine decides to stay dead.
It will crank forever until the low oil pressure warning come up, but won't start. I also smell fuel when I crank enough times. It's not the battery, though I had to recharge the battery a few time from all the cranking attempts.
The fuel pump does prime when I open the driver side door and when I turn the ignition on. I disconnected the hose going to the fuel rail, and confirmed there's fuel flow when the ignition is ON. There is fuel in the car, about 1/3 of a tank. I even added 2 gal. of fuel just to be sure I didn't have a bad sender. There's no fault in the VCDS.
Things I replaced so far:
NGK laser iridium spark plugs pre gapped to .032
New coilpacks
Fuel filter
crank position sensor (G28)
My car is all stock minus a Forged intake to my knowledge. I bought the car used, so the previous owner might have APR reflash on the car. However, the day I drove it, I never touched the cruise control buttons that could activated the APR anti-theft.
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
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A couple days ago my tire pressure warning came on. I checked the manual to see if there was a way for the MFD to tell you which tire is low. I couldn't find anything. Do I have to go around and check each tire for the proper pressure? If the car knows the pressure is low shouldn't it know which one? Also I'm wondering after only a couple months of ownership why my tire/s are low on air.
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So last week I got my new smf flywheel installed but it wasn't without issue. While putting everything back together, somehow the plastic side to side shift lever broke. I had already ordered a sigma six shifter so I had them put it in.
Now I picked up my car and had a lot of trouble putting it into first, and ended up in third several times. So after about a mile or two I pulled into a gas station to check it out. While turning at a very slow speed within the gas station, I got a warning on the mfi screen that said something like "low oil pressure! Engine off!"
The engine didn't cut off and the warning went away after a second.
I drive the rest of the way home since everything seemed fine besides the shifter. I checked the oil at home and the dipstick was dry! I couldn't believe it. So this morning i adjusted the shifter and it's super smooth now, then I added a quart of oil. Still barely at the min line so I added another half quart, which finally got it into the middle area. I added the rest of the second quart after that. I did run the engine then let it sit to measure.
Car is at almost 28k. My last oil change was almost 8k ago. Stage 2+ Apr. Hpfp and new cam follower put in 10k miles ago, at 18k. Downpipe put in this January, around 22k miles.
If the dipstick was dry, that would mean i burned at least 3 qts in 8k miles. Is that likely? Or do you think the installer messed something up?
I never got a clear story as to how the shifter broke but these guys are supposed to have a good reputation. I couldn't find any leaks or anything and didn't notice anything that looked out of the ordinary. I'll try to jack up the car and take a look, but I'm dropping it to the dealer to inspect next week as I still have CPO warranty.
I know these engines burn oil but with this low mileage I'm worried either something else is going on, or the installer messed something up and didn't tell me.
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I've changed the pressure switch 3 times now (1.4 bar, 1.4 bar, then 1 bar which is stock), checked oil pump, checked pressure with external gauge,..everything is fine. The light won't go away......what else could it be? It's usually an issue of pressure or the switch....certainly not for me.
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Got a 2010 gti. Stage one with magnaflow Catback. This has happened three times now. Driving normal and fine then all of a sudden car says OIL PRESSURE SHUT OFF NOW. Then goes away after a second. Then wont happen again for a couple weeks. Why it would say this?? Oil levels are fine. Checked them. Took to a mechanic said everything on the oil side seems fine as well.
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About a week ago my tire pressure light came on indicating that my tire pressures were low, I checked all 4 immediately and they were all around 35psi so I figured the light would correct itself after a little while. Fast forward a week it's still on, I tried clearing the code with vagcom, but it comes back immediately after it is cleared.
I'm assuming the warning threshold is bogus, how can I reset it?
Saturday,04,December,2010,14:35:30:03203
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.2
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 937 087 G HW: 1K0 937 087 G
Component and/or Version: RDK 103 0521
[Code] .....
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Last night my tire pressure warning light came on. So this morning I checked them, and they are all above 37 psi, so might be a tad bit low, but nothing major. the manual also mentioned that light can come on if there is a sensor fault. Should I be concerned?
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Last night after I got off of work I fired up the car and the Low Tire Pressure Warning light lit up accompanied by a chime sound. I checked the tires they were fine. I stopped by a gas station with bright lighting and the tires looked fine. I checked them again in the garage when I got home and they were fine. Why did this light come on? How do I turn it off? About 1400 miles on my R as of last night.
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So I'm having some problems with the oil pressure warning light beeping at me. First time it came on I stopped immeadietly, checked the oil and it was fine. (I just changed it when I got it) so I started it up again and it was fine for a few days. Then it came on again Real quick then went off. Now it comes on once or twice every trIp. I've replaced the switch already but it was still coming on so I installed an oil pressure gauge and I've confirmed my suspicions that the engine is indeed not loosing pressure. It sits at about 30ish at idle and goes up to aboit 50to 60 while driving 2-3k rpm. Yet the Damn oil light keeps blIbking. I'm assuming it has a wiring problem. Is there a way to shut this up or do I have to trace wires til I find the prob
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2012 Golf TDI... No tpms? I just got back from a road trip and noticed I have a flat and most likely drove on it for an hour. I thought the car came with a tpms system. I checked the glove box and there is no reset button (which I read should be there if you have the new tpms system that works with the abs system). I have the Canadian Highline 2012 Golf. I read through the manual and didn't find anything about tpms. Does this come with the GTI only?
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I love my new 2006 Phaeton (white/beige) and have been trouble-free so far for first 2 months of ownership (12,000 miles) but now I get a Spare Tire Pressure Warning every time I start the car, that now stays on when I drive around. I don't even know where the spare tire is! It did just recently get cold in Chicago area suburbs, but I keep my car in the garage at all times.
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I just got 4 new tires installed, running 235-40/18 setup (stock wheels.) On the drive home, the flat tire warning sign came on. I've tried to used the SET button in the glove compartment to deactivate it. That did not work (it flashed one time then stay on).
I check the pressure on all 4 tires and they're all at exactly 40PSI. What the problem could be and how to turn this pos off without going to the dealership?
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Today morning when I started the engine my tire low pressure warning lighted up, blinked for about 30 seconds and is now ON. It happens every time I start the car. My tires are at 38 PSI ( just re checked)
I can't find anything in the manual that shows how to reset the damn warning light.
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While driving a warning came up indicating low oil pressure and limiting my revs to under 4000, the car only has 3100 miles on it is this something that I should be worried about?
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At times when taking my beloved R aggressively through a long, tight turn (e.g. highway cloverleaf on ramp), usually while while accelerating, I get an oil pressure warning message (turn off engine immediately)...which goes away immediately once I straighten out/ease off on the aggressiveness.
Is this just an indication that oil is a little low? I can't say specifically what the interval vs. the last oil change was when I've had this happen.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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