Golf V R32 :: Coolant Was Low Recently
Sep 13, 2012
I don't have G12++ yet because I've never had an issue with cooling before but I just noticed that my coolant was low recently. I'm in SoCal where it's been 100+ degrees more than I can remember in recent history...or it at least feels that way.
I'm going to top mine off, take it in to my tech this weekend and have the tensioner and a few other things replaced at the same time but just wondering if it's been an issue or if I should be on the lookout for something else that could be wrong.
Think it's safe to drive after I top it off or should I call a flatbed?
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So my heater hasn't been blowing much hot air recently. When I'm at idle or just cruising around it blows cold air, I have to bring the rpm's up for a bit for it to finally get hot air but if I just drive normally the hot air turns cold again. I looked around and found the issue where if your coolant is low than the heater won't work and I checked the coolant level and I noticed its way below the "low mark". There's some left but it isn't much, it's pretty much at the bottom. My question is do I have a leak or can coolant get that low on its own? I've never noticed liquid on the ground in my garage or anything.
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The tachometer in my 2010 golf recently stopped working. it just sits at 0 RPM's no matter what. I'm not sure if it is a fuse or something else has gone wrong. I'm not even sure which fuse to replace to try and fix the problem.
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L 4 Cylinder and my CEL recently came on throwing the PO420 code (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). So I replaced both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Well just one day after replacing the sensors the CEL came back on with the same code. I was wondering weather or not I should replace the whole catalytic converter or if there was anything else I should try. The car runs fine, exactly how it did when I bought it.
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I have a 2000 jetta 1.8t. Check engine light recently came on and the code is a PO1128. I replaced the maf sensor and that did nothing but make the car run worse. I've check for vacuum leaks and found a busted line at the egr valve, fixed the line, reset the code only to have the check engine light come back on with the same code. I am at a loss now.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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I bought my car new. It began having a whining sound with acceleration recently (at 98+ thousand miles). A garage replaced the power steering pump, THEN told me I needed a turbo. No problem to drive it to dealership, waving bye-bye all the while. By now, the car is no whining, it is chugging along making strange metal sounds. Dealership confirms that I need a turbo, and also by the way, an engine. There is metal in the oil pan. I have now seen many blogs, complaints, etc. on line about a defect in the turbo on this car that causes oil starvation to the engine. Question: With metal in the oil pan, is there any hope in flushing the engine, replacing the turbo, and getting some mileage out of it? It has 99,000 miles. Has Subaru given any "good will" compensation for this? There were service bulletins about it.
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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Any shifter that occasionally firms up in its movement? Mine has been acting odd recently. Sometimes it shifts normal; smooth and light as butter. Sometimes it's shifting action gets real restrictive, feeling as if I'm trying to guide a rod through some very thick molasses. One morning, it briefly refused to shift out of park and then felt real stiff between gates, but by the time I got to my destination it was sliding smoothly between gates with a mere fingertip. Frankly, I'm baffled as just as quickly as the stiff very restricted feeling starts, it will return back to normal. My original thought was a failing shift lock release, but I would think it would just refuse to move at all, rather than just firm up. 14k on my Eco.
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My santa fe just recently quit starting. Thought it was a bad battery and I replaced it but it didn't work. When I try to start the relay clicks like low voltage but I am measuring the battery voltage while trying to start and it doesn't drop. After trying to start the instrument lights go out and the key chime quits beeping. Remote key locks work but the horn doesn't sound if I click lock twice. I have measured the battery voltage from Battery plus the the frame and the voltage is good during the start attempt. If I measure the battery voltage from battery plus to the engine as ground there is no voltage. I have tried to jumper the engine block to the frame and still the relay just clicks during start.
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I just lowered the passat and i have noticed while driving at night that the self-leveling lights have a hard time finding level. I am driving on I-95 and anyone who is in front of me thinks i am blinking my high beams at them.
This guy started slamming his brakes in front of me the other day and most likely would have killed me if he ever had a chance of catching me (the 3.6 is a monster!).
Any way, I notice this problem at all speeds and all road conditions (smooth as well as bumpy). Is there a way i can just turn the leveling feature off, cause there is no way this car is going back to stock springs.
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2009 Corolla 1.8 220K miles. Car has been pinging a lot recently. Codes set were P0300, P0301 and P0302 but no CEL??? Did all the test I know to do, problem isolated to cylinders #1 and #2. I did a compression check with disappointing results. Left to right left being the belt side: #1 60 PSI, #2 60 PSI, #3 125 PSI and #4 160 PSI. Throttle was wide open when I did the compression test and engine was hot. What happened????
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About two months ago, one of our two headlights was out. I came to Prius Chat -- of course -- to find out if I had to buy the super expensive ones from the dealer. Everyone seemed to agree that the best bet was to buy them from Amazon. We did. The dealer charged to install them and it was quite a task, things had to be removed and I didn't watch, so i can't be all that specific. At first he thought he could just stick them right in, but then quickly realized it was the kind that are difficult to replace.
So fairly soon after this job was done, my husband -- who is the 99.9 percent of the time driver -- noticed that they both just went off. He drives a windey mountain road in the dark, so this is not okay. However, by merely switching them off and then back on again, the problem went away. I worry that this could get worse. Last night, I was driving the car in the night and had been on the road for at least 20 minutes or so, when they went off. I turned them off and back on, and all was well. So, what's up with this?
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My 2001 Elantra's Air Bag light recently came on and reappears periodically.
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'98 F-150 4X4 XLT began squeaking recently. Have 1/2 mile long sand & limerock driveway thru mature North Florida jungle & every root'n'bump makes it squeak.
Was certain it had to be the J.C.Whitney/Owen's running board I left on passenger side. Upon close inspection, wrestling with it & popping it with big rubber mallet was surprised to find it tight & silent.
Checked bumper & associated bolts, then exhaust & everything else I could see/touch sliding under on a moving quilt.
Does not sound like bushing or ball joint. High pitch squeak, up near the annoying frequency of nails on chalk board.
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My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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My 02' Volvo s80 has been malfunctioning recently and I am not entirely sure what it could be. Today I was driving it slowly and it just all the sudden lost power and turned off, I was able to start it back up about 30 seconds later then parked it and restarted it again after a few minutes. Seems to drive ok afterwards. I've been smelling gasoline in the cabin recently. And it has run out of gasoline at least three times in a the past few months. I am suspecting a fuel filter. I checked the fuse and relay which turned out to be fine. Then I put my ear near the gas tank area as someone turned the car on and off. I could hear a flowing type sound, so the fuel pump sounds like it's operating correctly. Could it be a fuel filter causing the random shut offs? I read that when a car runs out of gasoline the deposits and gunk at the bottom of the tank are forced out which could clog the fuel filter. Maybe the reason for the smell of gasoline too? My instrument cluster has been on the fritz so I've been calculating the gas on a notebook. However recently the gas seems to be fluctuating the amount it takes. Sometimes it will take a lot of gasoline and other times it will spill out.
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My wife drives a 2005 Honda accord and the catalytic converter heat shield recently fell off. I am wondering if it is safe to continue driving the car without the heat shield? I have read that the main function of the heat shield is to prevent fires when parking in long grass. Does it also protect the bottom of the car from starting on fire?
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My Driver's side headlight recently started 'switching itself off' - which I understand is a pretty common problem. I'd already had the Passenger side replace a couple of years ago - by the dealership. But this time I figured I'd do it myself.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege' which recently started losing power periodically. At the same time, the check engine light would blink and then stay solid. The dealer diagnosed a random engine misfire and replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. It cost $500.00. After 3000 miles, the problem has returned worse than before. This weekend it lost and regained power repeatedly in short spans of time, and lurched back and forth as it happened. The check engine light returned as well.
My first question: what do you think this is? My neighbor suspects a clogged fuel filter or fuel regulator.My second question: what, if anything, does the dealer owe me financially?
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I have a 2005 STX with the 4.6L, 4WD, AT.
The engine has started to make a loud whining sound recently. I replaced the belt and tensioner since it was original and had 93,000 miles on it. The sound is still there.
The sound increases with rpm but doesn't change when you turn the steering wheel.
The engine starts and runs smoothly with plenty of power.
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