Car has been making da da da da da noise from the rear for the past week or 2. The noise is consistent with the wheel speed and I can heard it clearly when I am next to barrier or a truck or something the sound will pounce off it. I drop the car off, later they told me the drive shaft is vibrating a lot and it might go.
View 8 RepliesFound some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
I have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
View 3 Repliesso my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
Seems like there is a constant wind noise coming from the driver's side door on my 4-door GTI. Best way I can describe it is as if the window is cracked a tiny bit, but not that loud. Seems the car isn't totally quiet over 30mph. The door seals and everything look fine.
View 11 RepliesI have Rx 330 2005 AWD, recently we dont have winters, so I don't need 4x4 . Is it possible to drive without the back drive shaft? It very easy to remove it, but is it save for e.g. differential or other mechanisms? By the way I could reduce fuel consumption, I think, 18miles/gallon is really too much for polish realities.
View 2 RepliesFrom what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
View 9 RepliesSo a noise has come up in my Sonata. Sounds like it's behind the dash. Only happens when the car is idling in drive and the AC is on. With the slightest increase in rpm, it goes away. Doesn't happen in N or P. Sometimes goes away, but also sometimes gets louder than what I recorded below. I've only checked the dash and glove box so far. [URL] ......
View 5 RepliesHad the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
I am hearing a weird like vibrating noise when the call is in DRIVE during idle like at a red light or stopped position only. Noise goes away when placed in Neutral or Park. The cars gotta be in drive to make the noise... My car is a 1999 Passat V6 AHA engine code by the way, only 20K on it...
View 1 RepliesI replaced the front brake pads of my 2001 B5 Passat with the PBR metal master brake pads. Recently, I've been getting a vibrating noise from my front suspension when I drive. The noise is like something is about to fall apart. After checking it out at the local dealership, the service advisor told me that the brake pads didn't have any clamps to secure it thus causing the ticking noise. He said I need to get the OEM brake pads. I know that PBR is not the OEM brake pads, but I thought no brake pads come with a clamp like he is describing. He insist that the OEM brake pads do. I checked the brake pads that I replaced and they were Akebonos.
My questions are:
1. What clamp is he talking about?
2. Is the clamp something that comes with the brake pads or a separate part that I have to get somewhere else?
So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
My buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
View 14 RepliesI bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
View 2 RepliesSpecs :
-SB stage 3 feramic clutch with ss flywheel
-Motul trans fluid
What exactly is making this sound? What do I do to fix this because its driving me insane. Noise is constant with clutch out. Goes away when pushed in. Rattle when at low rpm. This clip is me lightly revving the engine. This is something clutch/flywheel related.
04 GX470 , open the back window while driving also had front windows open and all of a sudden I hear this noise like a helicopter to find that my moon roof was vibrating ? So I closed the back windows and everything was normal?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesJust noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
View 1 RepliesI was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
I have a set of ST that were put on a year ago. I raised them up in October for the winter. This past Saturday I lowered the car back down. As soon as I did I have the loud noise coming from the front passenger side.
I know it's not the top hats because I had that issue and replaced it and not the same noise. It is not the clunk that people associate with springs.
The noise seems to happen when spring/strut expand and retract.
Called ST today and they said if I had the car all the way down it is my fault. WTF? Why would you make a coil that is adjustable and the customer is able to go all the way down and then say it's my fault IF strut is blown?
The car drives straight and smooth so I dunno if it is blown. Could it be because of a build up of crap between the springs over winter (I saw some.)
Noticed fluid under the car two days after my dyno run but assumed it was from excess GumOut. I ran 3 tanks of fuel and the car is dripping fluid so the GumOut is not the problem. Closer investigation lead to fluid build up around the drive shaft on my passenger side. The driver side fits flush with the transmission housing but the passenger side has a gap.
Is the gap normal? It looks strange, kinda like the shaft is sliding out from the transmission. Again, the left sits flush. There is a small rubber gasket between the shaft and the housing. My passenger side has a 1/4 inch gap from the shaft to the housing and there is no rubber gasket. The undercarriage is soaked now. I will fill up THE transmission with fluid and take it to PTP.
What is the problem? Bad seals? Is there something missing? Did the dyno mess me up?