Golf V R32 :: Clutch Alignment / Car Shifted 2 Gears And Each With A Spark Cut
Sep 13, 2013
Ok at waterfest I got a UM ECU/DSG tune with the spark cut option. I now noticed that once in a while, only in regular D mode, there will be a very very aggressive and uncomfortable shift. It only really seems to happen under higher load and form 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th. The car shifts and there is like a double spark cut pop instantaneously after each other. It feels like the car shifted 2 gears and each with a spark cut. I called UM and they said sometimes it can be fixed with a clutch alignment. Car hs 56k mile on it and it was just recently DSG serviced.
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I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
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So the wife was following me home yesterday and I got on it at a stop light. She said that I had a puff of black smoke come out when I shifted gears. The car is a 2006 2.0 m/t w/ about 60,000 miles. Never had the oil light comes on but dipstick is always dryer than it should be although dealer always says I'm fine. Today my brother-in-law was following me and I told him to watch. He said he never saw a puff when I was shifting but that once at idle he saw a slight black smoke. Car is cpo for another year or about 13,000 miles so it's not an immediate issue but if it's a problem I want it fixed before warranty expires. Is this just normal?
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My wife was driving my Stage 1 R last night (by herself) and she ran into an issue where when she tried to leave from a red light, the clutch was slipping through the first three gears and she could barely get up any speed. She pulled over, let the car sit for a few minutes and then started going again with no issues.
She drove home about 5 miles and told me about what happened. The car smelled like burning clutch, but when I took it out for a quick test drive, everything seemed fine.
I am at around 5000 miles and have never had any issues before and I don't ever do high-rpm launches. So, could this have been a fluke or a sign of the clutch/pressure plate issues people have been having?
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148,000 miles, and yesterday my R decided it would no longer allow me to use first gear. It sort of starts to go in gear, but feels kind of mushy, not positive, and if I let out the clutch, the gears grind, but will not engage. All other gears feel and perform normally.
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I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
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I just bought a 2005 GLI and when i test drove it the Clutch was extremely light when I shifted, I have never drove a gli before. Now after researching and further driving i think the clutch is going out. am i right? if so, should i bother putting in a new stock clutch kit or should i go stage one etc...
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So when I shifted into 2nd gear as I was putting my foot on the leg rest beside the clutch by accident my foot tapped it for a second and it went down a bit. I didn't smell any burning clutch and don't recall the rpms going up. Is this a problem that a did that I am scared....
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OK, my stock exhaust would rattle when I shifted UP with the DSG, seems to be a fairly common thing. I got the EJ exhaust and it STILL does it on occasion, not as bad. Is there a loose heat shield or something? If I rev the car slowly while driving (not standing still) and get it to red line there is no metallic rattle. If I rev it fast and shift, it rattles
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Last night I was messing around with a bimmer. I was on 2nd gear, so i floored it and it wouldn't go in third gear. So I tried fourth and it wasn't going 4th neither. So i threw it in fifth. Started driving, I down shifted back into third, the car started shaking. Now the car shakes so much on idle. This all happen last night. I went home, and i checked out the coil packs. They seem to be fine. I was told it could be my spark plugs. So this morning,i replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the car still shakes a lot on idle and when i drive it. I scanned it, and nothing pops up, no check engine light. My motor mounts seem good. I just recently got my um N/A tune. I feel like the tune is doing this. I have no clue whats the problem. I changed the spark plugs and coil pack for no reason. Also under my exhaust mid pips where the clamps are right after the cats. Water is leaking out. So i thought the gas station i went to, use water in their gas. Gas was low, so i put more gas, and still having the same problem.
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We have a 99 Honda Civic. Our clutch is sticking in all gears and won't go into 5th gear at all. There is no resistance when I push down on the clutch pedal.
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I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125TSI with the 7 speed DSG. When it starts cold, you can hear a noise that sounds like a bad gear change when going from 3th to 4th, and 4th to 5th. It almost sounds like changing gears in a manual car without clutch completely depressed. It has been there since I got the car brand new, but recently it seems to be getting worse.
Once the engine gets warm, the sound goes away and gear changes are smooth.
I've asked the VW dealer about the sound and they tell me it is normal. Is this right? The problem is it is very hard to demonstrate to VW the issue since it may happen only once when the engine is cold. I've left it with the dealer overnight and they were able to reproduce it in the morning... but again, they tell me this is normal.
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I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, 5 speed, with 180k miles. Sometimes, not all the time, when I press the clutch and shift gears, the engine will rev.I dont drive the truck a whole lot, its a 2nd vehicle.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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I just purchased a 2002 2 door manual Echo. Car has 70K miles. I noticed that there isnt much travel for the clutch pedal (at least compared to my SX4), I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to engage and it seems pretty stiff shifting between gears. Is this normal for this car? Only my second Toyota owned and the first was an auto trans.
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Been having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
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installed my borla exhaust yesterday and no matter how many different way i tried twisting and pulling i couldn't get the tip alined... when i went for a drive it shifted to the passenger side... any other way then adding washers to the driver side hanger to lower the left tip.
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So I've driven on various roads (mostly highways) for the past week or so and have noticed that my car drifts slightly to the right a lot. I hate to say that my alignment needs adjusting already, The car only has 2000 miles on it and I'm thinking of taking it over the dealership and trying to get it covered under warranty (along with the door noise). Think I'll have any luck? (for the record, I have never hit any potholes, curbs, etc)
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