Golf V R32 :: Clunk Into 6th Gear On Light Throttle And D Mode
May 8, 2014
Posting this because I saw many other owners with the same problem. Basically after warming up DSG every time clunk into 6th gear on light throttle and D mode, speed around 50kmh rpm around 1400.
You can hear it and feel it on pedal a little. Sometimes is not so harsh sometimes its big clunk. Of course it did on manual mode too if you try shift in the same position.
Original thread here: [URL] ....
Its well known that DSG D mode is set to shift early for better fuel economy but this is not good and really annoying.
I have same problem and its not mechatronic related mine was replaced do to jerkiness on 2 gear and clunking into 6th it is the same.
So I know that fix could be DSG tune/reprogram that many company offer. D mode is optimized and shifting moved to "normal" rpms. A lot of you don't have even problem because your its already flashed with combo etc.
But in my area no body offer DSG tune and i really don't know how to solve this problem... don't want to replace whole gearbox because in all other ways works ok.
I have 2012 MU with i think lastest SW and it didnt change anything on this.
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I had something weird happen to my DSG today. I was accelerating from a stop light in manual mode until third gear at half throttle then shifted to 'Drive' at about 45 MPH. The transmission kept shifting back and forth from drive to manual. The MFD gear display kept switching from S to D every few seconds at light throttle. The mode selector was set to normal on the radio display. I turned into a parking lot, shut the car off, and then restarted. Once restarted, the DSG returned to operating normally. The CEL was not on and did not see any error messages on the displays.
Should I take it to the dealer for inspection? I am a first time DSG owner after 25 years of manuals and overall I like the DSG but it does have some quirks.
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Got an odd clunk, feels like rear off throttle from hard acceleration. Feels like diff bushings might be worn. Looking for some info about diff bushings and how they feel. Also found the front prop shaft coupler looks like its seen much better days so ill be replacing that.
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I know that sport mode raises the rpm at which shifts occur, but it feels like this mode also makes the throttle response more sensitive. Though, this could be because Sport keeps the needle in the primo range of the power band.
And at the risk of turning this thread into another topic: Does race, either over revving at a light, or just being passes aggressively and stuff like that? This is somewhat geographically dependent. I am originally from PA and live here now and people try and race me all the time, or drive more agressively around me than I feel they otherwise would were in a less sick car.
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I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
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Only when I'm banging through gears into 2nd my motor I think, makes a loud clunk. I checked the motor mounts an they were tight. What else could it be?
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So I have a 05 mk4 golf 2.0 automatic. Ive noticed that when i take it from park to drive the car shakes and makes a huge clunk sound like I just got hit by something. Turns out it was a motor mount, I think they call it the dog bone cause its attached to the body & engine of the car. So it was replaced but the car still does it. But not as hard & not as much. Before when I revved the car it would kind of shake and dance. Since the replacement it parks still when I rev it. But that noise is still there. Someone told me it could be another mount or the torque converter.
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I have been reluctant to post another clunking thread because it's nearly impossible to accurately describe what is happening. But I have reached by breaking point and I wanted a few opinions before I take it into the dealer. I am still under powertrain warranty, but I want to be confident I am not wasting mine and the dealers time if I am just missing something easy. I also know dealers don't always take clunks seriously so I want to pinpoint it first.
Symptoms : Car has 50k miles. I am the original owner.
From a stop, when getting the car rolling moderately aggressively there is a clunk/pop noise from the car. I can slightly feel it in the pedals and it is fairly loud. Almost like a distant hammer and nail pounding. It's a single clunk, with sometimes a double "pop pop". It's noticeable even with the radio turned up a little. If you are smooth on the throttle it doesn't make the noise. It seems random, like something is hitting something which only happens under certain weight shifts.
It sounds like it's from the rear and the front. It seems to switch. But honestly I am not confident either way. Where it is. It is silent on turns, bumps, speed bumps, driveway, etc. I don't think it's the suspension. It is not a clicking/tapping, only a single clunk or knock.
It also happens in 1st/2nd in stop and go traffic. If you leave it in 1st and the traffic is moving from say 8-15mph where you don't need to use the clutch it will clunk during on/off throttle. Anything above ~30mph I haven't been able to replicate the noise with on/off throttle.
It also does it if I downshift when coming to a stop and don't rev match. Say you are slowing down and you go from 4th, 3rd, then 2nd, let the clutch out and it rev matches up to ~3,000rpm which causes the weight to shift forward....clunk! It is not easy to replicate which is another reason I am slow to bring it to the dealer until I pinpoint it.
Things I have tried:
- Subframe bolt torque check. Installed ECS spacer/bolt kit anyway.
- Sway bar links are tight, or at least they didn't budge at all.
- Adjusted the rear hatch a million different ways as it was making a similar noise earlier.
- Spare tire tightened, tools removed
- Rear seats up/down/mix/seat belts fastened, etc.
I was only able to locate one motor mount? Where they are. Seems fine. Dogbone seems fine, again hard to tell.
Suspect:
I have VWR springs, but I am 90% sure this started happening right before I had them installed. I did the rears myself, a well known shop did the front. I noticed the noise maybe 2k before the springs were installed.
Clutch linkage somewhere - I had issues with my transmission (early build). The clutch was replaced at 7k. I've always had a very loud flywheel and a grinding feeling in the pedal. Maybe the shifter linkage is hitting something? I have little experience with VW's so I am still learning and don't know what to check.
My rear harmonic balancer is cracking like everyone else. I have no vibrations yet and I don't see how it could be causing a clunk in the current state. Maybe a motor mount is bad that I cant see? It feels like something is loose in the drivetrain.
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I finally decided to take my car in to the dealership for this random split second hesitation that mostly happens in first gear. I have 8600 miles on the car and it has done it since the day I bought it. I thought it might have been compressor related from running the AC. I have tried driving with no AC and ESP off and it still does it.
So I take it in and they decided to let the new guy work on my car. I take him on a ride (AC and ESP off) and sure enough it does it nice and strong for him to feel it. I was happy so we went back to the dealership and they gave me a 2.slow rental and I was on my way. 24 hours later they call and tell me, "Ron we believe it might be your throttle body so we're waiting on the regional master tech to get his opinion before we put a $750 part on your car".
I'm like "ok, whatever you say, just call me tomorrow with an update because I don't want it back till it's fixed". They call me the next day to inform me that my brake light switch was faulty ($10.25), they replaced my wiper blades, adjusted my wiper arms and the car was ready to be picked up.
Now that I have it back I can say driving it now that it's acting normal is an adjustment. My mind expect that hiccup but it doesn't happen, at least not most of the time. I'm not completely convinced that this hesitation is gone because I think I felt it happen once yesterday. Time will tell... In the mean time it is 95% cured.
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Whenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
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Getting a misfire at part throttle. Whether the car is in gear or sitting. At idle there is no misfire, and at WOT there is no misfire. But if you hold the throttle part way (like when trying to cruise) you immediately see the misfire count go through the roof on vag-com. this can be duplicated in the garage by holding the idle to 1500-2k with no load on the motor.
4 codes, which come back immediately at part throttle as described above.
multiple cylinder misfires
cylinder 1 misfire
cylinder 2 ""
cylinder 3 ""
tried moving plugs and coils with no change, problem stayed on first 3 cylinders
checked t-body readings and appears to be aligned ok
checked maf readings and appear to be ok
found one questionable vacuum line and replaced it, no change.
checked vag-com fuel trims and they showed -4.7% which appears to be with in the acceptable 5% range
watching lamda on both front O2 sensors and they seem to be following the same trend.
When I look at measuring blocks 26/27 it shows me knock sensor signal on all six cylinders, and 1-3 are much lower than 4-6. This is the only discrepancy I have located, and not sure if it is the cause or an effect of the problem. I checked the knock sensor (located below exhaust manifold on passenger side) and the sensor and wiring appear good. I checked resistance best I could and it appears in spec (infinite resistance) but the pins are so small and the spec is so vague I am not 100% on the results.
I have vag-com and a full shop access, but no R32 specific bentley unfortunately. I only have the older (up to 2002 I think) MK4 manual but that only covers the 12v. Looking for the wiring diagrams for the coils or knock sensor harness'...
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Sometimes while cruising at moderate to highway speed I'll go full throttle (to pass, merge, etc.), but the car just revs for about three seconds then catches a gear. It has happened in D and S mode. I've taken it in to the dealer and they checked for any codes, but there weren't any.
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I recently purchased a 2012 Golf Sportline 2.5 auto. I also currently own a 2006 Jetta and 2008 Rabbit both 2.5 automatics. Both older cars run and drive great with this engine and tranny combination for me. However with the 2012 I really notice a throttle delay when accelerating from a stop and a very early shift into 6th gear when in the gear selector is in drive mode causing engine lugging. Shifts into 6'th at 60 kph doing 1100 RPM.
This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
I have taken it back to the dealer hoping for a ECM flash update but nothing is available from VW and my vehicle ECM has all other current settings and updates. I ve looked into aftermarket solutions such as the Sprint Booster which allows for a more responsive pedal but based on my other VW's my 2012 should not preform like this.
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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I recently spun my coils all the way down on the front, removed rear supporter springs, and rear perches. Now I have a light clunk every now and then over small bumps. Looked under the car and nothing is obviously loose or missing. But when I grab the rear driver axle I can wiggle it some. Not real loose but enough to hear the clunk. Like a loose tooth. Sounds like its coming from inside the inner cv.
I plan on jacking the car up after work and taking a closer look to see if its something simple. My question is if I don't see anything what's a possible problem? I've heard people having front axle issues when going real low but its only my rear driver side. Could it just be a bad angle? It's weird ONLY being the driver side.
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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So on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
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Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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