Golf V R32 :: Cluck Tick Noise When Start Driving And Then Make A Stop?
Apr 24, 2008
Seems to only happen when I first start driving and then make a stop. While I am waiting for the light to turn green I hear a clunk tick cluck tick noise behind the passenger seat that seems to speed up and then slow down. I think that is where the fuel pump is.
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Recently I have noticed a noise coming from the car. It is a cluck sort of noise, and it is definitely coming from the front end. I have tested turning and braking and the noise does not seem to be related to that. It seems to only happen when there is a quick transition in the road.
Think of the seam between a bridge and pavement where the bridge is an inch or more higher than the pavement. During normal dips and bumps it seems fine. I put the car up on jacks and removed both wheels. I went over everything to make sure it was snug. I took a rubber mallet and did a soft tap on various parts to see if I could get a rattle or clunk.
I have heard that camber plates can make noise. I am wondering if this could be the case. Many people have reported noise with GC plates, but I have not heard of IE plates doing this.
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I just recently started driving... with a second hand hyundai accent. Whenever i stop at traffic light with engine on, i hear tick tick noise (probs from engine?). it seems to be coming from front of the driver seat. When I start at the beginning, I do not hear any noise and also when i am driving i do not hear any noise or lets say nothing audible like this. Its only when i stop my car and while i am waiting, i hear this tick tick noise(very clear and audible).
Is it engine metallic part making sound when cooling down? When I start my car I see symbol for low oil pressure, batter life, check engine, but as soon the engine starts these symbol disappear which I think is normal behaviour.
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 L. Clock from right side of engine immediately after starting engine. Seems to be in rhythm with engine and increases in frequency as I rev. Gradually subsides over first 5 minutes and not audible after that. Recent small leak of transmission fluid, but I'm thinking that has nothing to do with this.
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So my 2015 has a touch over 1K miles on it. It has "ticked" loudly since day 1. I generally keep my truck in my shop and hear the ticking every single time when I pull it outside. It occurs immediately after start up and happens at idle. Easily heard anywhere around the front end of the truck. This is not the normal diesel engine noise and absolutely sounds like the tick-tick-tick of an old typewriter.
So in doing some research, I came upon the TSB for put out for the 2011-2014 models, in which it CLEARLY states the typewriter noise can/will occur AFTER an oil change and eventually go away...
So, is the noise only supposed to be heard AFTER an oil change, and if so, why would my truck do it even though it has not had an oil change?My 2012 did not have the tick before, during or after an oil change, ever.
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there is a clunk on the front of my Prius.
When I'm driving slowly and steering I can hear a clunk/knock coming from the front. I can replicate the noise by steering when stationary.
I have taken it in for diagnostics and they couldn't see anything wrong. Where to look?
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I just rolled 100k in the 337. Time to do some refreshing. 2 noticeable issues (non-motor related anyway )
1 - sometimes when turning hard left to right, or vice versa, I hear and feel a "cluck", almost like the something is shifting.
2 - I've got a creak from the front (and I think maybe the back too) when I get out of the car. Sometimes I hear it when I slowly go over a bump as well.
3- I think my rear shocks are on the way out.
In the last 15k I replaced both the inner and outer tie rods. That's all I've done to the suspension.
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Just purchased a 2010 ls with 20,000 miles on it. Brakes make a popping noise when coming to a stop. Not all the time, seem to get worse as brakes get hot. Have had to dealer twice they have resurfaced rotor, bled system put new pads. Still have noise my service manager opened a trouble in the lexus system and called Atlanta. They said this is characteristic of this car. I drove a couple of other ls cars and did not hear the noise. Not sure where this is going to end up. I saw where the brake actuators where changed on the 07,08 and 09.
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Our 1995 Toyota Camry shakes and makes a loud rattling noise while driving, but not every time I drive the car. The rear seat of the vehicle, especially feels the shake. The rear tires have been replaced and aligned, but still the shake/noise persists. Our mechanic has not been able to recreate the noise. It has occurred in the winter and summer with or without the heater and/or air conditioning on or off. Sometimes the shaking is so severe, I am afraid of what will happen, but I will stop at the next light, sit for a minute or two, and when the light turns green, the car goes, no shaking involved - everything is fine. I typically drive in town so speed is only 45 mph or less. The car has only 137,000 miles, and is well-maintained.
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My husbands jeep is driving him crazy. He drove it to work and started fine. Then went to start to come home. Nothing. No crank, no click, nothing. Towed home. Battery OK. Anyway, he put new starter on. Started up. I drove it to station. Got in to come home. Nothing. Same darn thing. We jumped it. Pushed it out of way. Started. It's done this many times. Let me say, though, he went through a huge amount of water before this happened. Gauges went nuts for a while. Don't know if this could've messed up a sensor. He's losing sleep over this.
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So my brothers 2003 jetta make a noise after steering one way and then the other while driving around town. We jacked up the car and opened the hood and when I pushed the wheel in and out from the 12 and 6 position the shock and the shock tower had excessive play between each other. I'm no expert so I told him to get a second opinion.
He did and the local shop said it's the strut tower. Just checking if this adds up? I'm pretty good with wrenching, and I saw a u-tube vid on replacing a strut assembly. So, I think I can get it except for the spring compressing.
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Anyway after 40k my r cooling fan make really loud noise while idling. As i checked under the hood i only see one big fan is running. Are two fans suppose to run??.. I run a obdii test no code what so ever.
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I put on etc red stuff and RB front rotors a few hundred miles ago. When I brake at highway speeds the brakes make aggroaning noise. The wheel and brake pedal do nother vibrate but the cabin does a little. What can this be?
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So I had a weird problem this morning. I have a 2013 Elantra GT with about 27,000 miles on it. This morning when I went to start it, it tried to turn over once then stopped. Every other time I tried turning the key it didn't make any kind of noise and wouldn't start. Despite all the lights and radio and windows working fine, I still tried jump starting it, but to no surprise, that didn't work at all. Finally I tried using the shift lock to shift into drive then back into park again. When nothing worked, I tried making a complete guess and shifting it into neutral, when I was in neutral and tried turning the key, the car finally started. That happened about an hour ago and the car has been starting fine since.
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My sc400 won't start it make a little click noise when I turn key the lights work but it don't crank how to fix for cheap??
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Sometime when I make a sharp turn (such as turning out of a parking lot) I hear a "pop or click" noise coming from the front end. I cant tell whether this is normal or not and I wanted to know if this was a sign of anything serious. The car only has 70k miles and is in pretty good shape. Still stock suspension.
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Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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I went to clean my wife's throttle body out with brake cleaner and I think I sprayed too much into the throttle body now the car won't start. It makes a small clicking/grinding noise when I try to start it. What have I done?
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Rear sway bar make noise when you go over bumps in the road?
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When I lock my doors my factory alarm no longer beeps to acknowledge it is set. If I hit the panic button the flashers flash, but there is no sound.
Previously I would have to open and shut the hatch on my car periodically to get the alarm to beep, but that no longer works. I checked the central locking fuses and the alarm fuses (two 15v's buried under covers above all the relays). Those are fine.
If it were just the beep no working after locking the doors I would guess the hatch switch, but there's no sound from the alarm on panic (and the horn works fine).
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So, I took my 2011 Sonata SE in for service because I was having some transmission problems (18,000 miles). After starting the car and putting it into drive or reverse, the car would make a large clunk noise and surge forward or reverse. This happened only twice. I was also periodically getting some very hard shifts. They told me that they were getting an error showing a bad temperature sensor for the transmission fluid so they had to replace it. A lot of this started after the update. We will see if that fixes the problem.
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