Golf V R32 :: Clicking When Reverse Down On Drive Way And At Low Speeds - Axle Replacement?
Oct 16, 2013
I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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I replaced my right front axle a week ago because I was getting severe popping/clicking noises. The boot was torn on the axle and I had grease all over the inside of my rim etc...
The popping/clicking sound was gone immediately after replacing the axle. Now starting yesterday, exactly one week after I replaced it I noticed the popping/clicking sound coming back. It was faint at first but started getting louder. Now today it's almost as bad as it was before I replaced the axle. I still have to get underneath and see if I can hear where it's coming from? Think the axle is bad again? It is an after market Axle, ToughOne is the brand I believe.
Just for a quick history. All four wheel bearings were replaced about two years ago. All four ball joints about a year and a half ago. I replaced the outer tie rod ends about two weeks ago.
2004 Ford Explorer, 4X4, 4.0 Flex Fuel
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I have the dreaded click-click-click noise when turning that is indicative of my CV joint going tits up. Checking it out the boot is split and there is some grease. So, I plan on going ahead and changing both sides drive axles out, since the Camry has 178k on it (yeah, 178k on a 2009.)
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I have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
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I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
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I just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
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I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
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I always thought the clicking sound I was hearing in the morning was coming from the engine. Then I realized the sound doesn't start until the car is in gear, either reverse or drive. After a few minutes it will go away but until it does, it is a noticeable sound. I still have a warranty. I am wondering what this could be.
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I just started hearing a loud click when I change from park to reverse and from reverse to drive. If I keep moving the knob between those three spots with my foot on the brake and hand brake off, I hear a loud click at each spot. Hard to describe... anyway, this only happens when I first start the car, by the time I get to work if I try doing that when I park there is no loud click sound. The thing is, I don't know if this was always happening and I just noticed it now, or if it just started.
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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I took off my inner axle to drop my control arm and remove my strut, but when I go to try and put it back in it doesn't reach. Is there something that I'm forgetting to do?
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have a binding and clicking-ish noise at low speed. Is that a sign of a bad axle?
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I have a 2001 gti that I just changed the cv axle on and it feels like it's failing already but there's no play in the axle or place it mounts to the tranny.. Doesn't feel like the last one I removed but rumbles and clicks at 30+mph.
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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
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After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
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After reversing the car and coming to a stop to change to drive the car seems to bog down like the engine is dying or hesitating but then will pick back up and then start moving forward.
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I changed my flywheel and clutch in April. After the install, 3 weeks later, I start to hear this little clicking noise when I'm driving in reverse. I didn't pay much attention to it. Last night the clicking noise got a little louder, so I was telling myself, I have to get it checked out.
Today I bring my car to the shop to get an oil change, totally forgot to mention the clicking noise I was hearing in reverse. So I leave the shop, I get on the high way, I starting hearing that clicking noise. The more I was driving, the louder the noise got. So I pull over, now I put it in reverse, now it sounds like its grinding. While I'm in reverse moving, the gear is grinding. So my girl friend lives 3 mins from the exit. So o was driving to her house, now it's doing it while driving on and off. Not as loud as it was in the reverse.
I'm guessing it could be my tranny or my axle. The reason why I'm thinking acle is because it has to be rebuild, leaking grease. I'm guessing tranny, but god knows. I'm not a mechanic, but i want to know of its safe to drive it up to Bill in Ct. He's about an hour from me.
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I've been hearing a slight scrapping noise almost every time I drive off at low speeds. It definitely is a metal to metal sound but only is heard once or twice and then its gone. The dealership have checked suspension, wheel bearings, etc. and they say everything looks good and is tight. I dont think its anything steering cuz it happens when driving straight and nothing else feels out of the norm. I just had my 30k service done and I also had them do an alignment (found my front toe and rear camber needed adjustment) and the noise is still there.
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