Golf V R32 :: Clicking At Low Speeds / Increased Engine Movement
May 24, 2011
After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
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Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
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ASL does not keep up with increased noise when reaching highway speeds?
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I "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
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I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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Quick question, on my 2015 GTI, if I turn just the interior fan on (no A/C) when idling, it increases the engine RPM by 100 RPM.
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Have an increase of coolant usage after APR flash??? Coolant levels were never an issue until post stage 1 flash, conservative driver here, open it up very rarely.
I love the software its a totally different car post flashing, but just curious if this is a common issue or if there should be any concerns involving this issue...
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.3L straight 4 with a 5 speed manual. Last night when I was driving home the car was idling at around 200 RPM when the engine was warm. And then this morning it started fine, ran fine, but as the engine temperature increased the idle decreased, as it should. But even when it wasn't fully at the proper temp it was idling at 500 RPM. When it warmed up to the proper temp it was idling at 150, yes 150. It was touching the 0 RPM line, but it didn't stall. It has had problems in the past with initial low idling, like when you disengage the clutch, but never constantly idling so low. Keep in mind that the idling hasn't progressively gotten lower over time. The problem just arose last night. Also, it accelerates fine, and the check engine light isn't on. What is most likely the cause?
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I own a MK4 GTI with 182000km on it, I am experiencing some much louder than usual road noise. The noise is only present between 50kph and about 115kph, when I go faster than that the noise seems to attenuate.
I took the car in, it was put onto the hoist and the noise is not coming from the front (we ran it on the stand, but the noise did not seem to be present when revved up to the speed mentioned above). That leads me to believe that the noise could be coming from the tires or from the back assembly. I am going to be putting on my winter tires here soon so that should rule out the tires.
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I am having some issues with my radiator fan (the big one). Vagcom show an error I think it was "Movement Restricted / Jammed" so I'm thinking of ordering a new one but not the OEM . A year ago I had issues with the same fan, hit it with a small bat and it worked fine until now.
[URL]........
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1) Are there 2 lights in the head light projector 1 for low and 1 for high? Didn't see the lenses move as high beams go on.
2) do all R's come with LED license plate lights? Mine did and I ordered a set from ECS. So if someone didn't get LED's and they want a set PM me. 20 bucks shipped
3) I'm having trouble searching for the coding on turning off the headlights moving (hate it!) I find myself watching the damn lights and not the road.
4) I'm having trouble searching for the code to have the DRL LED's on full with the headlights on. I'd be nice to get those both added to the DIY post that thread was nice enough to put together.
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I was in cruise control at 50 and pressed and held the increase speed button to pass a car and once i got to 55 and still holding it the check engine light flashed twice a second until i released the increase speed button. Are you not suppose hold that button? Could this be APR related? I also noticed that the speed doesn't matter, it could be at any speed just hold it for like 5 seconds...
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I have been tackling my engines idle vibrations for a while now. Now that I noticed the engine also tilts when switching from N to D about 2 inches. Here are some specs and things I have done with little effect.2.4L engine, cleaned throttle body MAF sensor, checked and replaced spark plugs, PCV replaced, checked engine mount(visual inspection, no cracked rubber ) , idle at about 900rpm, and idle sometimes drops when no load is applied, that's when vibration gets worse, normal idle still gives vibration that can be felt on the seats...and you can see the seats vibrate...
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I recently hit 180,000 km on my mileage and all of the sudden theres increased ticking engine noise and vibration. Sounds like a diesel engine. No check engine lights, gas mileage is the same, acceleration is the same and as far as I can tell after checking oil its within normal range for now.
I'm worried its either the VVTi Rubber hose exploded or its the VVTI Camshaft / piston slap issue. My dilemna is I'm 3 hours drive away from a Lexus dealer but there is a Toyota Dealer 10 min away. Should I bring it in to verify theres no oil leak at Toyota and then take it back to a Lexus mechanic to see if it is Camshaft gear ?
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99 Chevy Astro with 93000+ miles. Only recent problem (one week ago) was left lights on for 4hrs on a new battery and almost completely drained battery, then, vehicle cranked without a jump. This AM started van to go to work and there was a definite "whirring noise" from under the hood. Popped the hood and sounded like coming from the brake master cylinder area vs. AC compressor area-hard to tell though. AC has not worked for 2 yrs. Noise increased in proportion to revving of engine. Likewise, noise continued while driving, although seemed to not be as loud when engine warmed up. Temp outside 34. Fluid levels OK. Where the noise is coming from? Also not sure if related or a concern: brake pedal has a slight "stick" to it when initially pressing the pedal, for ~ last 6 mths. give or take Brakes seem to work fine.
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I want to reduce engine movement when accelerating, so is is good enough to get the ECS Dogbone Mount Kit With Stretch Bolts or should i get the ECS Tuning Ultimate Dogbone Mount Kit which includes the dogbone itselft?
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I've tried to search for fixes but nothing comprehensive works. The problem is that the auto window movement going up will stop halfway and lower a few inches so that it is about a quarter from being fully rolled down. Now, i've managed to get it back all the way up but I'd have to hold the up button. the auto roll is very picky and only works perfectly 50/50. I've tried to reteach the window settings and that does not work either.
The car only has about 1200 miles on it, and no moisture has ever gotten in. seeing as how people have complained about it before but not able to find a conclusive fix, should i just make time to see the dealership and have warranty cover it?
Here is a video I've found of the exact same behavior: [URL] .....
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Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
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I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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