Golf V R32 :: Check Engine Light On - Oxygen Sensor Fault
Sep 22, 2011
I recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
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The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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I have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
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What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...
I took the car to the shop this morning for diags but what might be causing the problem? It is a 2004 V8 with about 142K miles.
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I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
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Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
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I recently had my Hyundai Entourage (2008) come up with the following engine codes: P0057 and P0037, both related to the downstream oxygen sensors. The generic description of the code is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low. As I understand this code, it is signaling that there is too much current passing through the heater circuit. The oxygen sensors test out OK for resistance, around 10 Ohms each and disconnecting them entirely and rerunning the test after driving a few times yields the same code. So I suspect the issue is not with the sensors but either the wiring or the ECU. I'd be a little surprised at a sudden short in the wires for both sensors but I suppose stranger things have happened. Oh and the fuse for the oxygen sensors has not blown. I am correct in reading these codes to mean there is an apparent short? Or are there any other things that could cause this to happen?
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Check engine light is on and my code reader is giving me a P0000 code that is not listed in the Bentley's list of OBD II codes. My nose is telling me it's emissions related as the exhaust smells too rich. And the car is nearly stalling at idle. Suspect #1 is the MAF but the OBD II code does not support this.
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I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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Earlier this week on my way back home from the gym I got my first check engine light . I scanned the car and got the fault below. What may be causing it?
About the car: 2008 LUX Wagon2.0T FSI50,2XX miles
Scan:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 040C010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 25129 444 59131
VCID: 3041DE6FDAB3
1 Fault Found:
008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
[Code] ....
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Encountered this check engine problem > 16805 and 16815 < I replaced the 02 sensors, problem solved for 1000 kms, and now the dreaded light is showing its face again ! Possible secondary air system at fault? Cat about to go, or already gone?
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2002 Passat 2.8L... I am averaging 11.8 mpg in city driving I do not know what the problem is... My check engine light just came on fault P0114 something like that secondary air hose could this be the cause of me getting 11.8mpg and I use grade 91 and higher of gas...
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Just got a check engine light last night. Pulled the code and got a P202a fault. Some digging indicates its the Ad-Blue tank heater module. TDI forum indicates its anywhere from $850 to 1K to fix. Also that it's not covered under any extended warranty (now there's a shock!) The cars going back to VW so that's not happening.
Is this one of the conditions that will cause the car to go into limp mode at some point? I know that happens when the ad-blue runs low. I'm in Florida so the heater isn't really a big deal. I need to use it another couple of months and I don't want to have this thing leave me stranded. If I have to I'll park it.
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Recently got check engine light fault code p0320
2005 3.5 with 172k miles
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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