4000 miles and I got the Check Oil Level light come on! I know it should not be on this early on. I have not had the 5k service yet. What oil I need to put in there to top it off till the oil change?
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
View 24 RepliesTemperature outside (weather data): 55F. Temperature gauge in prius: 57F. It felt more like 70F. It's a 2010 Prius III model that is 6 months old and has about 3942 miles and is driven VERY carefully.
I start the Prius and when the ICE engages to warm up. There's LOUD intense engine knock. I immediately turn the power off. After a couple of seconds, I start it again....the ICE engages again and then starts knocking rapidly (it is definitely knocking) and after 10 seconds. It goes back to normal. It was so intense that it may have damaged other components or the engine block itself.
My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 vw golf and its epc light keeps coming on and every time I reach 4000 rpm it goes into limp mode, what is the problem.
View 2 RepliesHow since the container is not see-through?
View 11 RepliesFor the last several days, most of the times I've started my car I've had the Red "Check Coolant Level" message on the MFD - accompanied by a tone / chime.
The first time it happened, I was a tad below Min, so I added a 'glug' of G13 to push it back up into the normal range. Everytime I've checked it since, the level is in the normal range.
So how is the level "sensed"? I had a new coolant reservoir put in about 18 months ago, so my "hope" is that it's not actually that (though those are really cheap).
Is there something else I should be cleaning / renewing? Maybe as simple as the electrical connection on the reservoir?
Turned my car on this morning and heard a long loud beep, i look at the car at its saying "Check coolant level low - Check owner's manual"
Turn the car off (engine still cold) pop the hood and coolant reservoir is almost bone dry, way below min level. Check underneath, no apparent leaks, no puddle, etc. Turn car back on, no warning light, drive to dealer, the service advisor looks at it and says there should be no way it's that low that soon.
He said in the morning its common for it to be low but after the engines warmed up it should be higher (and it was) but still below min level. He thought that it was strange and topped it off. Said to keep and eye on it and it will gradually gone down since its 40% water and when it slowly evaporates the level should go down.
So not sure if i have a leak or my car came with low coolant from the factory or something else even, but check your coolant levels
So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
View 30 RepliesI have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
So today during my drive I looked down and noticed my check engine light come on! The car has 7k miles on it!! All I've done to it was the ARK cat back and k and n drop in filter. I'm guessing O2 sensor but it's crazy to think a car with 7k miles had a bad sensor. Noticed the car was running a little rough lately but noting too crazy.
View 14 RepliesMy friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
View 5 RepliesI've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
View 8 RepliesI purchased an 06 cpo 2.0t m/t in March and I checked oil level at end of June and stick was almost dry. Immediately poured in some oil to make it to dealership. They performed oil change and said they didn't find any leak. Today when cleaning under hood, I thought about checking dip stick but figured it would be fine. My oil was changed about 3 months ago and I've driven just under 2,000 miles since the change. The oil level is at the min marker. Someone told me that the turbo's burn a quart of oil about every 1,000 miles but this seems a little ridiculous.
View 10 RepliesWith a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
View 1 RepliesHow many miles and/or gallons are available when one is down to the last "blip" of the 10 blips showing the gas level?
I have gotten anywhere from 79 to 92 miles in the highest blip. I have gotten 43-50 miles on the second to last blip. Today I got 30 miles out of the last blip and it took a hair over 9 gallons to fill up the tank. I feared that I was cutting it pretty close.
I was just wondering how many miles I might expect to get out of that last blip. My normal MPG is 42-47 MPG. But the MPG really seems to go down as one gets towards the lower blips. Is there some kind of warning when one gets really low?
So I was waiting in line at a drive through, because Fast Food is the breakfast of champions. And suddenly my Oil Light started blinking. It beeped, then blinked. It didn't stay on solid.
So I figured I was suddenly low on oil. I then noticed my engine temp was pegged to the max. So I abandoned my Egg McMuffin (Not an easy choice by the way) and I pulled out of line into a parking spot and shut down my engine.
I gave it a few moments to cool down and checked the oil level. In the past my oil light has come on if I was low on oil and a 1/2 quart or so was all I needed. But after 20 minutes of cooling down, I checked the oil level and it was fine. Not even close to low.
I made some calls, talked to some people, ate a McMuffin and checked the level again. It was still good. So I restarted the car now that it was totally cooled down. It warmed up fine, right to normal temp, no overheating, no oil light and all seemed well. So I drove it home (About 12 miles) without issue.
Also, Prior to this issue (within a couple months) I switched to Synthetic Blend. And it may just be a coincidence, but my AC also failed about 3 days ago.