When I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
View 8 RepliesI've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
I have a 98 abe motor 105k on it, since i have had it its had like a lifter tap, im assuming its coming from the chain tensioner. i had the head worked on after broken timing belt about 2000 miles ago still no change.
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my 2005 elantra making a noise that sounded like it was coming from the cam timing chain. since it is still under the 10 year 100,000 mile warr. I brought it to my dealer. I had a P0011 code for advance timing also that keeps popping its ugly head. Dealer said that the chain would not be covered under warranty because of oil sludge and a faulty oil control valve. I went to remove the ocv from the head and when I removed the bolt the solenoid came off without the stem I tried an easy-out and managed to rotate it approx 1/8" but no luck getting it free to pull out.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
I would like to know if any of you had issue with is spark cut. Last week my motor begin to do some noise around the timing chain cover (upper). I open the motor and my exhaust camshaft adjuster was defect ...I change it thinking it was the problem, but the noise still there. (i also change the tensioner bolt). It was not a big noise like when a slider is split in half or something like that.
I pull the transmission off today and saw some weird wear on the slider and tensioner but nothing broken. (i will post pics as soon as I can)
The car have 56k miles
So my car has had the two cam position sensor codes for awhile..and it had a cheddar/chain noise when you first start it up and at 1000-1500 rpms anything past that it would go away. also car has been very very sluggish. and horrible on gas. so im guessing it may have skipped time or the chains were really stretched but something just was not right..
So I bought everything to do the timing chains and tore it done yesterday and this is what i found.
intermediate shaft gear is done....both cams off just a little ...no interference ...
I started my car and a chain rattle noise then the check engine light popped on. now I have two codes, p1340 and p0012 codes for camshaft issues.
View 1 Replies2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
View 3 Replies03 Camry. 117,000 miles. 4cyl. Jerks and gives stalling feeling when in reverse, idle at stop lights and during initial acceleration. Feels like it is going to shut off. No major noises. No check engine light on. Car was fine when I bought it 2 months ago, just started this 3 days ago.
View 3 Replies2012 gti, manual, 7k miles.
I've got this tinny buzzing noise coming From the engine bay that only happens between 2800 and 3k rpm. I hear it whenever I'm cruising on the highway and shifting through gears. Also if I have the windows down you can hear it outside the car.
So I've got an odd noise coming from my engine, sounds like a hum or quiet whine. Almost like the whine of a supercharger.
The noise does get louder when the rpm's increase. So wondering if had the tensioner pulley fail, if there were any noises associated with it prior to it failing?
I have 2011 Sonata with just over 3500 miles on it. About three weeks ago I was driving down the road going about 45 mph when my sonata jerked like I had hit a pothole. I pulled over and checked it out and saw that I had not hit anything. When I put the car in reverse it jerked, and when I put it in drive the car bucked badly. After that, it had almost no acceleration as if it didn't want to get out of first or second gear. I took it to the dealership and they were able to recreate the problem and called it an "Intermittent Hard Shifting Transmission."
They told me they had to replace the transmission, which they did. After they replaced it they said the car was still hard shifting. So they replaced the transmission again, and again the problem persisted. Yesterday they told me they were ordering a brand new transmission, blaming the problem on the fact that the previous transmissions were re-manufactured.
I'm waiting to hear back after they install this "new" transmission. Maybe the third time's the charm, but this seems ridiculous.
About a two weeks ago, I had a CEL pop up. I brought it in to the stealership to get it scanned. I don't recall what the exact code was, but the description was something to the effect of "Cooling System Performance." I hadn't noticed that the engine temp was any different than it had ever been, so we kinda figured it was just a bad sensor. We popped the hood just to take a look at things, but he didn't really notice that anything was off. I thought the engine sounded a little difference. It wasn't idling rough, but there was a very subtle ticking noise. He didn't think anything of it. So he cleared the code, and sent me on my way.
The code came back a few days later, but disappeared about a week ago. Since then, however, my .:R has been feeling a little different. Like I'm losing torque. The ticking noise has become distinctly louder, although I can only hear it when I pop the hood. Last night, i was listening to it, and there are two separate noises, coming from two different locations. One is coming from the left side of the engine, most likely from one of the belts. The other is the one that worries me the most, as it's quite a bit louder. This ticking noise seems to be coming from the engine itself. The longer I let the car idle, the louder it gets.
One of my friends took a listen, and he suggested that it could be a blown piston ring. This would explain why I'm losing torque, but I haven't noticed any blue smoke coming from my exhaust.
Recently bought a 2012 gti last week, everything is great until I hear a weird whistling noise coming from the engine. I suspected it was the water pump, since i researched it and some people had the same problem. Brought it back to vw to get it checked and they said their was nothing wrong and it was a common problem.
View 11 RepliesSometimes (most of the time) whenever i turn on my car, there's sort of like a clicking noise (really loud, if you get out of the car you can still hear it), push the clutch in and its gone. The other times when it doesn't start right away, the car warms up and the noise is present. I don't know if its normal for Volkswagens to do that, But i didnt notice it when i got the car. Im not sure if its the engine, trans or clutch. At first i thought it was my A/C because whenever i would turn it off the noise would go away.
It wasn't the A/C, it started to go out, don't have money to replace it, so now i always leave it off. the noise stopped for a little while but eventually came back. It only happens when the car is idling, start to accelerate, it goes away until i come to a stop again.
It's a 2000 Golf 1.8t 5 speed manual.
Just wanted to make sure this isn't a problem? Sometimes after a drive, usually longer ones, when the engine has heated up and running for around 20ish minutes, I hear a harsh bubbling noise coming from the engine.
I popped the hood and wanted to see where it was coming from, I touched around and felt the dipstick (oil) vibrating, but then I felt the oil pan and couldn't feel any bubbling in there.
Also I disconnected the battery as the bubbling was going on, and as soon a I did that, it had stopped.
I've had this weird noise coming from the driver side front (i'm guessing inside the engine bay) for the past month now. It started ever since hitting a bad pothole that wasn't avoidable and couldn't see very well during one of the nasty winter storms we got here in PA. Ever since the steering has felt off, like just not all there anymore. Over the smallest of bumps it makes this noise. Extremely aggravating for me since I try to take great care of the car and keep everything tight and new feeling. Since I don't know how to work on newer cars (only mk3 and lower) I have no clue what to do to check... I've had it at the dealership a few times to report the noise, 2 of the times they just took it for a drive around the area and back and each time the tech said he didn't hear a noise (of course).
Roughly 15k miles on the car currently
Noise started around 12-13k
Also recently noticed that only coming from the same side, the shock over big bumps makes squishy noises, as if it were blown or something...
People have suggested that it could be the sway bar, tie rods, end links, bushings, anything. I personally think it's the strut tower bushing or bearing, but again, I'm not much of a newer car mechanic.
Pics of car ...
I have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
View 6 RepliesHad my R for the last 2 months and just recently have noticed a quiet ticking type noise (e.g tuck tuck tuck tuck tuck) at low revs (1500) 1st/2nd gear. What this may be? it seems to be coming from the top right hand side of the engine.
View 3 Replies