Golf V R32 :: Car Tends To Jitter During Takeoff From Dead Stop
Mar 16, 2010
I have purchased number 4024, in CW, and I am posting to ask about the transmission. During take off from a dead stop, the car tends to jitter. Not a fast repetitive jitter, more like a slow, stalling out feeling. a go stop go stop go stop go that blends in to each perspective motion. Now when I purchased the car, it had already been modified by member CWR32. The mods included GIAC software, intake, exhaust as well as suspension, bar, skid plate and all of that good jazz.
What I am trying to figure out is if any of your cars do or has done the same, either stock or modified. I have read something stating that the software controlling transmissions such as DSG determines how smooth the transition of gears will be. Is it possible that the tranny software was upgraded, is this tranny REALLY that clunky, does yours tend to do the same.
There is also a slight tendency for the car to jar roughly when put into reverse or first if i let off the brake quickly.
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I have a 2001 Subaru outback. Recently I've noticed a rattle when I accelerate, especially when I take off from a dead stop. I sounds like it's coming from the front wheel area. It also occurs sometimes when making a turn and then accelerate. It almost sounds like an object in a box and someone is shaking the box-very noticeable.
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2010 F150 XLT FX4 5.4L Crew Cab Medium box, nice blue truck, lacking on chrome though.
My friend has a clunk/lag on take off from a dead stop only. Drives fine down the road, but when taking off from a complete stop, you step on the gas, and nothing happens for a second, feels like it lags, then clunks, gives a jerk, and takes off.
From talking to other newer Ford owners, seems like a common problem.
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As I said when I take off from a dead stop I can feel a clunk or a bump that feels like it is coming from the rear wheels. I can feel it more than I can hear it, although I can hear it a little. It is difficult to describe this. It is only for a second and kinda feels like the rear wheels have no traction then it bumps and takes off. If I ease into the accelerator I can avoid it, but I don't have to hit it real hard at all to get it to do it. I am sure it is not u-joints as I put a brand new drive shaft from driveshaft specialist on in the spring.
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My 06 FX4 has 106k it started acting up shifting last week and its driving me crazy not knowing what part to change. Sometimes when I take off slowly from a dead stop it shifts really quickly into o/d by the time I am at 15-20mph. Doesn't matter far as hot/cold but if i accelerate quickly it doesn't seem to do it. I have read it could be the Shift solenoid or TPS.
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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When my car is cold... sitting 8 hours below freezing I've noticed until the car warms up I hear almost like a quick scraping sound when I take off from a stop or when shifting. It's almost like when the engine is put under load the movement causes something to shift and makes this noise. Any chance I have a loose mount or a portion of the exhaust could be shifting coming in contact with something?
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The car is manual, 95.000 KM. The problem is everytime i put the car in gear and start rolling, I hear a loud thump/clunk coming from the underside of the engine.
The only mods on the car are intake, a tune and a dog bone insert. The clanking is way more apparent when i'm in reverse. Whether i'm backing out of my uphill driveway or on a flat surface, EVERYTIME the car is at a dead stop and I give it throttle, something clanks...
My mechanic had lifted the car. He thought it might have been suspension, but he ruled that out. He believes that it is in fact the dog bone insert that is faulty. Upon further inspection, the red insert (from USP I believe) had cracked. although the insert was visibly broken (I've had it for barely 5000 km's, WTF) I'm not entirely sure that that is what's making the clunking sound because that sound was there from before I had put the dog bone insert in place.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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So I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
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I have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as alot of guys here,come to a stop clunk,take off clunk. My question is my warranty ran out,I had a 30,000 or three year and now I have 31,000 plus it's like the truck new when the warranty ran out. There is a TSB on it,10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. Or Braking... Will they do any thing for me,and how much would it cost me to have the work done at a shop.
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I have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as a lot of guys here, come to a stop clunk, take off clunk. There is a TSB on it 10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. I am going to pull the rear driveshaft and put in new grease MERCURY MARINE GREASE with TEFLON (2-4-c ) part nbr 92-802863A . How much do I need, will 8 ounces be enough.
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I have a 2003 B5.5 1.8T. Recently i started hearing a weird noice in the back of my car like something is loose or rolling around. Had the brakes checked and everything is fine. You only hear it when you stop real sudden or take off real sudden. You can hear it on the inside too but its much louder with the window down.
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I've been catching up on some minor things with my car and have gotten to this one issue I've been having. When I take off from a stop I get a very slight click. Not every time but most of the time. It's a 2005 Elantra GT 5 speed. I replaced both axles due to torn boots. There is no play in the front end whatsoever, so I have ruled out ball joints and tie rod ends. Anything else I should look at?
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I have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
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I have a clunking sound coming from the rear of my X when I stop and take off. The sound does not happen until the vehicle has been driven for a few miles. After it has been driven, I will get one clunk when I stop. When I take off I will get one clunk as the vehicle starts to accelerate, and another clunk as I give it a little more gas. What could be the cause of this? I do not get the sound when I shift from park to drive, or drive to reverse.
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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Vehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
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I am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
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I have a 2006PSD 6.0. At about 60-70mph my truck will start to buck/jitter if i give about 5-10 percent throttle. It only happens at these speeds and i tried all sorts of fixes so far. Also there are no codes. Truck starts and idles great. At more than 10 percent throttle at 60mph, it acts normal. My current fix is just drive normally at 80mph. I also see talks about the possibility of the Turbo vanes being stuck, but wouldn't that happen at other speeds also?
Oil Change,
Fuel filter change
EOT and ECT within 8 degrees
FICM Change with Atlas 40
EGR Replacement (Unplugging and driving didnt change it.)
Replaced IPR valve
Turbo cleaned at 90k (Currently 140k)
Visual check of exhaust system and up pipes and no leak
Current mods
Fabtech 6" Lift
FICM Repair.com with Atlas 40
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
Edge CTS
4wd ESOF hose kit
SS Brake Lines
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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