Golf V R32 :: Car Sounded Better After Flapper Exhaust Mod
Aug 19, 2012
I did the flapper mod on the exhaust... pulled the hole out, put a screw in at the end of the hose and then capped off the inlet where the hose would plug into. So have doing that I honestly could not tell a difference. The car sounded amazing when turned on after sitting awhile b/c it was idling just above 1K before it went below and sounded normal.
Also, having my car next to a MK4 R32 with the flapper, the Mk4 sounded much better and louder with the same mod done to stock systems. It is very simple and to the point and with not really hearing much of a difference with it done and then a MK4 sounding 10x better got me thinking and I wanted to ask
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
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What is the exact conditions under which the flapper is open? To my ears, it sounds like the only time there is a noticeable change in the exhaust note is when you are in 'S' mode. Is this correct?
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Well lately I haven't driven my truck much. Usually only on the weekends if Im lucky. Well I drove it today and I noticed this weird noise on acceleration. I have the cam phaser tick and have had that for about 50k miles or so. I started to think I was getting a manifold leak and that's what I thought this noise was until when I pulled over and put it in park and revved it up I did not hear the noise again.
It only does it when you hit the gas until you get to a steady rpm. I only drove 5 miles or so. So I couldn't do much testing cause its late and I got to get up in 4 hours. I don't even know how to explain the noise. It kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but it was more of like a lite thud noise I guess. Like I said it only does it when I hit the gas when its in drive but not in park. I tried to explain it the best I could. I just hope its not phaser problems cause I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it.
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Bought the car with 6900 miles so maybe the mod was already done? When I look done the tailpipe with a flashlight, the flapper is opened, with the car idling or even shut off. Shouldn't it be closed when idling? The hose is intact, but I know you can do the mod and it can look intact.
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I have the three way flapper switch and lately when I would start the car cold with the switch in the stock position I would hear a strange rattling/vibrating sound coming from the rear of the car then the other night I was trying to creep home and the flapper wouldn't close and still won't close no matter what position the switch is in. I looked and everything looks fine, the vacuum line is still connected and everything. Could this be a problem in the vacuum system or a blown fuse? Solenoid problem? I've never heard of this before....
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Took my car in (2011 Golf Base 2dr 5spd) for it's 10k mile oil change and checkup and mentioned that the A/C sounded a little noisy, kind of like a whine, every so often. It didn't really bother me but my wife would complain about it. The air was ice cold and I just figured maybe it was normal. Well I got a call from the service advisor and he said the noise was due to an internal failure and they were going to replace the compressor. I sure was surprised. Got the car back and the A/C is just as cold and is now nice and quiet.
So if your A/C is even slightly noisy I would bring it up. Could save yourself having to replace a costly compressor down the road.
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An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
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Had a really annoying noise from the HVAC today which sounded like something catching on the fan - but it would stop at moderate speed or when the air flow flap was closed. I took off the plenum cover and moved the flap spindle slightly which seemed to cure the problem. Could it be wear in the spindle (or lack of lubrication) causing the flap to vibrate, noting that with the HVAC in auto the fan is running fairly fast most of the time (and I always have it in auto). I have seen the thread about leaves getting into the HVAC plenum but I dont think thats the issue.
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I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup and on Sunday, driving home from camping, I noticed my fourth gear had a really high pitched chirping sound. I figured it was bc I was accelerating uphill, and thought nothing of it.
Monday night, I was driving down the street and it started again. In fourth gear. It literally sounded like crickets in my engine...
It's only in fourth gear, and it's only in mid fourth - like if I slow it down (like I'm about to shift into third) or speed up (like I should shift into fifth), it fades out.
My brother in law the mechanic said I should try getting my transmission serviced, which I did, the next morning. It still makes the chirping sound.
It doesn't make the sound when I have the clutch in, even a tiny little bit, but the second my foot it not resting on the pedal, it starts.
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Had a howling noise that sounded like a bearing going out. After searching, I see that the fan belt is actually sliding on the pulley. Looks like a vertical alignment problem. It could be the idler pulley, the fan pulley or possibly the lower Crank (?) pulley knocking it out. I can see the belt sliding approx 3/8 to 1/2 inch . At idle it sits closer to the engine, as rev it seems to line up. All this action certainly means the belt is shot. But could be idler too.
I went through a few things to check it out. I looked at the power steering unit, pulled off the belt and check if there was any obvious play in each of the pulleys. All seemed ok. The idler seemed rough running but no wobble of play in it. I will replace the idler anyway since I bought one. The belt has no damage to it. It was changed about a year ago. So it's just been wandering on the fan pulley. Went to the Crank pulley and the dampener .and it feels tight. There are some obvious small plastic cracks on the outside. friend suggest pulling on the pulley and look for separation between the inner, outer, and rubber ring in between. Felt and looked tight. After I change the idler anyways, I'll look again. But could the crank dampener still be bad?
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Last night I found out my car can "sense" when I have low pressure in my tires as it sounded an alarm. It was right my back driver side tire must have a slow leak because it was down to 25 PSI. I looked in my manual and on my inside panel of my driver side door but couldn't find anywhere what the correct pressure should be. I checked all my tires. My two front, which are brand new tires came it at 38 PSI, my passenger side back was at 35. So I filled the other back tire back up to 35 and reset the low tire pressure alarm. Got up this morning and the tire was down to around 30, so off to the tire shop on Saturday. But where can I find out what is the best PSI for the four tires.
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I had a couple people in the bed of my new F150 SCrew with the 5.5 ft. bed and it sounded like the metal was cracking as they walked around in the bed. Is that normal? It didn't sound good.
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I have an 07 2.0t m/t w/ 19's. It rides great but the other day temps got down in low 30's high 20's which is cold for Myrtle Beach, SC. When going over speed bumps I could hear creaking which sounded like it was coming from the front wheels (didn't creak when back wheels went over bump) I figured maybe it was something to do with the cold. It did this for about two days and finally on third day when going over same speed bumps the noise was gone but it was still 30degrees. It resurfaced today and temps are in the 50's. Car has about 50,000 miles but it is a CPO vehicle warrantied for another 2years/24,000.
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My 2005 Chevy Malibu (97,000 miles) started sounding like the motor was going to die tonight as I was idling. When I started to drive again, the motor sounded kind of noisy and the RPM's went up and down (from 1 to 2 and back down again), and the engine light came on. The temperature gauge showed that the car was running a little hotter than usual, but not much. The gas was about half full, I have had no problems with the gas gauge. I change my oil regularly. No message came on my message panel. I can turn off the engine and start it up again just fine, but the engine still sounds bad and the light still comes on.
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The car won't start. It sounded like the battery was dying when we tried to start it the other day. We went and got a new battery, but it didn't work. It has a new altenator, new starter, new timing chain and it's also had a transmission rebuild all within the last 4 years. I'm not really sure when the spark plugs were last replaced. Could this be the issue?
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I was recently experiencing problems with my front brakes. It sounded like it was grinding on something (it doesn't screech) whenever the speed reaches below 15 mph. I called up my dealer to take a look and upon investigation they told me that i needed to do the front brakes job but they could save the rotor (they charged me around $300). Is this common ? It is a daily driven car and i mostly drive on highways. I drive the 2014 RWD IS-350 F-sport model and just recently hit 17.8K miles.
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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I've had this tapping in my engine for a few weeks now and I put it in drive then heard a huge bang from the front of my engine and then started making a very loud popping noise that almost sounded like air leaving the valve cover...
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Ok first of all i know this sounds really stupid. I got curious of the intake system and I unbolted the tube that does down to the (turbo i think) anyways I figured it was the intake for the engine. Anyways I went for a quick little drive, and it was not the intake for the engine it was the for the turbo. The turbo sounded pretty loud and made a whoosh when the throttle was released. Cool. 2 min later the car shut off i started it back up drove home, and put every back the way it was suppose to be! and there is a check engine light. My question is... How do I reset the light myself instead of the dealer doing it, I thought i remembered how to do it somehow without anything. Btw was doing that anyway harmful?
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