When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
View 12 RepliesI have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
View 4 RepliesOver the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
[URL]......
Shifts slowly or stays in shifting mode longer than necessary. Must stop accelerating and wait a few seconds until the shifting is complete. Does something need adjusting?
View 6 RepliesHad a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
I noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.
View 9 RepliesI have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
View 1 RepliesRecently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
View 14 RepliesWhen I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
View 4 RepliesOk, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
Car in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
View 1 RepliesOnly during the summer, my 2003 Vue transmission jerks and shifts to (I believe) to a higher gear. Mechanic replaced the computer "harness" but it did not solve the problem. The car has little power to accelerate from a stop. I usually pull over, turn off the motor, and restart the vehicle.
View 3 RepliesI've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
View 24 Replies2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L V8 automatic transmission with 64,000 miles. The truck runs and drives well, but occasionally while driving, it acts like it shifts into a higher gear, slips a bit, then downshifts and runs fine. The duration of this "acting up" is about 1-2sec. It seems to do it when going up a slight grade at cruising speed about 40-50mph. (Not towing when it does it) It doesn't do it all the time. I'm planning to change the filter and fluid but am doubtful that will work. The fluid color is nice bright pink and does not smell unusual.
View 1 RepliesI just bought my new 2010 Prius the day before I went on a 300 mile trip out of state. Dealer showed me the eco mode, which sounded like a good idea to me. Drove on the expressway, about 70 mph, decided lots of power was not necessary and I wanted the best mpg so I put the car in Eco mode. Drove great for about 250 miles, then all of a sudden, I began to lose power. Fortunately, I was nearing a rest park. Pulled in, was there long enough to take care a Rest Park business, started back up and car ran fine. BUT I did not use Eco mode. Question: When should I use this mode and when should I not?
View 11 Replies