Golf V R32 :: Car Lost Power And The RPMs Dropped Promptly
Mar 16, 2013
Last wednesday when I was on my way home, the car felt like it lost power and the RPMs dropped, I keep on driving until I got home, I let the car cool off for a few minutes then I tried to start it and it wouldn't, after a few tries the car started and then died.
I didn't take it to the dealer because it was kinda late but I called and made an appointment for the next day, I ended up not taking in the car since it ran good all day and I know they don't do nothing unless they can replicate the problem, now this morning the car started acting again and it smells like gas inside the cabin and weird noises are coming from the gas tank filler neck.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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I have an issue with the 02 1.8t (wife has an issue). We recently took our car in to get some service work done and the mechanic informed me that he thinks the tranny is starting to go and just baby it....Fast forward a month the wife is driving the car, she said at around 40mph 2k RPM and the RPMs just drop after hearing a screeching/grinding noise....
Then she tried to apply throttle and it redlined...She said it would shoot up in RPM and not go over 30mph, she used the triptonic to get home and was able to get up to 45..Sat for a bit and I drove it, everything seemed ok..Shifts good, stops fine, no weird noises, etc....
Car is a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/ 148k miles, regularly maintained, never had tranny oil flushed..
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Mk4 12v vr6 afp. 170k ish. No real mods except a cleaned up bay. Was death knocking LONG before I started the bay. Probably 6k miles. My car knocks/rattles bad in low rpm but promptly stops all noise at 4k and up. Makes the noise in any gear but only when throttle is applied. Even does it when revved up in neutral. No CEL other than one explained later.
Suspecting wrist pins as con rod bearings are brand new (replaced for no reason they were fine) and i removed head and no problems were found. Lifters tick a bit but that's all. Cleaned and put back with new headgasket. Shined up the pistons of course. Timing chains also done. <10k miles on oil pump. I even tried taking the shifter rod completely out and driving to verify if that was the rattle and no change. What could be left mechanically?
I was afraid the noise was preignition because I was getting codes for knock sensor out of range, so I replaced the knock sensors multiple times each, coil pack, wires, new ngk bkr5e plugs gapped correctly, fuel filter and pump. Have ran multiple tanks of premium 94 from different stations as well.
The ecu pulls timing back to 0 btdc and it is still knocking so I just decided that the knock sensors are picking up a mechanical knock rather than pinging. Only thing left is wrist pins or piston slap. Maybe injectors causing a lean condition?
Here's a pic of my car for attention ....
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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So yesterday I was driving from a stoplight and for the second time in as many links, the car did something I've never experience and any of my vehicles before. It rev'd through 1-2-3 and on the 3-4 shift the rpms just held at 3k and it almost seemed the engine had lost all power or maybe I guess come to think of it seemed like the transmission was slipping. I know it had the TSB for the hard shifts which was for 1-2 and 3-4 if I remember right. I'm going to take it to the dealer but I know them by now that if I give them a general problem that isn't happening at that moment, then they'll say everything is working properly. Like I mentioned before, this is only the second time over the life of the car (45k miles) that this has been experience when I was in the car.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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Started the car and noticed a strange sloshing sound come from the dash. Following this the car's RPMs dropped and the engine made a sort of clunky/shaking/rattling sound. stopped and restarted, and drove home fine. check engine lights on so took it to autozone to be read. got back three codes.
What the problem might be or if each code is independent from one another. Here's the codes we found:
p0456 - evap emission control system pressure leak
p0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
p0117 - engine coolant temp (ECT) circuit fault
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99 ford taurus 232000 miles. Great car I keep it fairly well maintained or my mechanic does actually. The thermostat was faulty and while in a long idle it shot all the way to HOT. The car did not over heat. the thermostat was replaced. A week later another long idle and it shot up to HOT again. A few days after that it was discovered I had a leak from the O rings going into the radiator part/section. They were replaced.
Yesterday I drove from work to the store about 25 miles. I got back to my car - started it up - it was rough/sluggish. I drove it 100 feet and noticed the RPM dropped or would not go up to where it had been normally. 40 to 45 miles an hour RPM at 1 or 1.5 .....It drove home "ok" but, I have had the car 13 years and I know there is something wrong. But I do not know what.
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About a week ago I noticed my RPMs suddenly dropped while I was driving. a couple days later after driving the highway for about 45 mins, averaging probably 80-90mph, I got into town and I stopped for a car to park. Then it just stalled, I didn't notice a kick back, it's like the car just shut itself off. It took probably 10 attempts to start again. About a mile down the road it did the same thing pulling up to a stop light. I sat through 2 light cycles before it started again.
Got to my destination was there for maybe an hour, when I left the car started fine. Drove for about another hour on back roads when the Rpms started dropping again and I would need to dump the clutch to get them to go back up. Then my screen started beeping telling me to STOP with and oil pressure alert. I ended up driving the car home dumping the clutch whenever the rpms would drop. Once I got home I had my boyfriend take it out and nothing... Of course... A couple days have gone by and it hasnt been as bad but it still drops every now and then, and today after driving home maybe 5 miles it stalled again...
I've plugged it in and my speed sensor is throwing codes, but I don't think that's the entire problem. Whenever my car acts up the EPC light comes on but no check engine light so far. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t.....
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I have a '04 Ford Mustang Convertible, V6 engine, and today on the way home it really scared me. I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half, moving a few feet at a time, when all of the sudden, about 40 minutes into it, the RPM's dropped almost to the point of cutting off. This happened a total of 3 times until I finally got out of traffic. The last time it happened, I threw my hands up and said "I am going to see what it does." The previous 2 times I had stepped on the gas, but this time I did not, and it got to the point to almost cutting off, then caught itself and throttled back up.
Now, it was 90 degrees in Charlotte today and the AC was on. I was told this might be the issue. I have never had this happen before, but then again I don't live in Charlotte and this was something that has only happened this once in the whole year I have owned it. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, but the gage did not register as low, and no fuel light came on. I am hoping it was just the AC compressor driving the RPM's low...
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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The story is that during the last week I noticed that my car was having rough idles when it would first start on a cold morning (16 degrees). I thought I just got a bad batch of gas so I filled it all the way up with new gas and added a fuel stabilizer to it. Everything was going great until tonight on the way home it just stopped running and costed to a stop. I tried to turn it over until the battery died and even replaced the fuel pump relay (#409). Vagcom showed no faults that would explain it. I also noticed that the fuel pump didn't sound like it was priming when I turned the key.
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Heading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.
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My car turned off and lost all power randomly on the highway. This is what happened on the cluster when I tried to start it up. Alternator maybe?
Pics .....
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Yes my door switch is bad, but it hasn't caused any real issues. It works intermittently. I've never really had any issues with the car. I was driving home today about 60 miles, and out of nowhere I lost all power, when I pushed the pedal it would hold rpm and then just slowly fall. At highway speed with the clutch in I could feather it to maintain rpm, but it would misfire really bad. So I pulled off to the shoulder, it was still running. I popped the hood and looked around, nothing seemed out of place. I revved it an it would stumble. I messed with it for a about a minute or so, and hopped back in to go and if I got the rpms up it would do ok. I got it back up to speed and it was fine for about 2 miles. Then the same thing happened. By this time I was close enough to an offramp to get off the highway. I managed to get it off the offramp, and on to the shoulder. It then stumbled and died.
My first thought was alternator, I've been having some issues with my battery, but I thought that was just due to the cold temps. If I jumped it, it would drive and start fine. I only ever had issues if I didn't drive it for a few days, or it got below 10 degrees. It would turn over fine but it would barely catch and then just die. The battery was dead. We jumped it, and still the same issue. It would turn over just fine when attached to the other car. So we sat there for a little while, waiting for a tow truck. I called a few others and then thought about trying something else.
I got a breaker bar out of the trunk, got down on the ground and hit the fuel tank a couple times. Hopped back in the car, and it fired right up first try. Then I drove it home without any issues. It has started a few more times now without a hiccup. So, everything else aside, I have a shorting fuel pump I think. The car has 151k on it, so I should probably expect to replace the pump anyway.
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I was driving home today and when I got on to the freeway, the car lost power and the check engine light started to flash like it was misfiring, also the EPC light came on. When I got off the freeway and let it idle, it idled rough until I turned the car off and put my APR flash back to stock. After that the car was idling fine and the check engine and EPC lights were gone. Everything seemed to be working fine until I hit about 75 mph. The car started sputtering again only as long as i tried to accelerate. Under light to moderate acceleration the car works fine up to about 70 mph. After that or under heavy acceleration the car sputters and the CE light flashes and then turns off.
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I've lost all power steering about a week ago. I checked all the lines the return is bring fluid up from the pump and the res is flowing into the pump.
A) should I replace pump?
B) look into other things that could be causing the issue?
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Driving home tonight and my car lost all mechinical power, electronics still work. Car turns over but will not start, also hear a clicking noise coming from the driver side of the engine when car is being turned over.
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So the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.
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