Golf V R32 :: Car Is Throwing Error Codes
Oct 18, 2013
I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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Any LED I can throw in the footwells / license plate area that won't throw a code? I'm using the ones from superbrightleds.
They worked everywhere except the license plate and the footwells. Everytime I get in my car I have to see (check license plate lights!) and a bulb out icon.
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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Had the tail lights coded for at a local shop.. realized as I was leaving that the reverse lights are throwing an error. Can these be coded for? Now that the car recognizes the tails as LED, is the error coming from the incandescent? Should I replace the bulbs with low pulling LEDs without resistors? As for the fog, do I have to replace the bulb as well? No euro switch or wiring done. Basically, how do I get rid of the error.
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So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
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What I need to do to fix these codes
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p2637 torque management
p0420 ...
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The car doesn't seem to run that rough.
Replaced coil pack and spark plug wires with parts from O'reilly auto
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300 - 35 -10 - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
I have searched and browsed multiple websites and threads to no avail. They all seem to be dead ends.
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So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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I keep throwing a P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System error. My previous pump was seized so I replaced it, and broke a few of the chintzy air hoses in the process. Now, with new pump installed and new air hoses connected, I can go about 5 days before the code comes back on.
So to recap, I have:
Replaced the air pump
Verified the new air pump functions, yepReplaced the air hoses
Verified connection of air hoses at all junctions
Checked the Secondary Air Relay for function
I have not yet checked the solenoid - unsure how to do so.
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I'm reaching out to see if any other MQB platform owners who had DCC/Magride are experiencing suspension errors after upgrading to coilovers while employing a delete kit. Some of us S3 owners have been running into this issue after such an upgrade and using this kit by KW. I can throw a suspension error on demand in my S3 by taking a turn/curve at 40mph+ (highway on/off ramps work perfectly for this). A bumpy road or hard braking can also cause an error to be thrown.
Aside from the error being annoying sounding and looking it also re-enabled traction control. You cannot turn traction control back off until you've power cycled the car. This is a pretty annoying side effect that could also be pretty dangerous under the right circumstances. KW seems to think their kit is operating correctly and that the height sensors are out of range due to lowering the car. Currently there's no way to adjust where the height sensors sit so in my personal opinion this seems like a massive oversight on KWs part and their product is not working correctly.
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Add a few codes come up today ... P2187 & P218. Bank 1 & 2 running lean at idle
Haven't been able to find a definite answer..
Replace purge valve?? (P/N?)
MAF??
Fuel filter??
I keep getting engine codes and 265 miles per tank.
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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My girlfriend has a 2000 B5 and it's been throwing a p1136 (Fuel trim too lean: probably a vacuum leak) and p1113 (B1, S1, pre-cat O2 sensor) for about two weeks now. How long can she feasibly leave this stuff before doing any real damage?
I just don't have time to check her manifold for vacuum leaks for at least a few months (summer) or deal with the O2 sensor. I mean she doesn't need to get it inspected until Nov 2007, so, all she has to put up with is that really annoying beeping and "emissions workshop" lightshow every time she starts her car up.
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So my car has been running a little rough for a while(about 6-8 months now) and the CEL has been going off sporadically. The clutch went out last week and has been replaced fixing a large part of the issue, however the car still feels kind of rough in the 3k rpm range and up. I feel a strong vibration when I step on the throttle and the car hesitates to build power. On cold starts the car also has a rough idle where the rpms are hovering above 1k for a few minutes.
I recently took the car over to AU Tuning where they gave me a free diagnostic(Pacific German was charging me $100 just for a diagnostic!?). They told me the throttle body might need a cleaning but I was better off replacing the whole unit. They also discovered my air intake hose torn near the diverter valve and a 5 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator that was pressed in for added pressure.
Given that I just replaced the clutch, funds are tight and I don't have the money to replace everything right away
I should mention VAG-Com reported the following codes:
P1137 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 - System too Rich,
P1297 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1171 Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator(G188) Implausible Signal
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I recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
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I have had a wet weather issue twice, once last fall and once this spring. Both times were very wet and damp conditions causing a sputtering and chugging and dying at lights, both times no codes and after drying out in brother's shop it went away. Now this weekend up at the cabin it reappeared, again very wet conditions. Replaced the MAF...no change. Sputtered and chugged my way home with it killing at most stop signs/lights. Finally got home and couldn't even back the TT up the driveway, it would kill. Finally threw numerous codes (misfire in cylinders 1 and 9, and misfire in first 1000 revolutions). I'm thinking COPs as the plugs are not that old and the little research I have had time to do suggests this also. If it is COPs, I have heard there are some to avoid and some that are recommended?
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I'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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The car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computer, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!)
Here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
We also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14, for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
We also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm.
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