Golf V R32 :: Car Bouncing From 500 To 600 RPMs Consistently At Idle
Feb 26, 2012
A few days ago I changed my oil and decided to throw in a can of sea foam with a fresh tank of gas. I live literally 100ft from a gas station so I poured the bottle of sea foam in my tank while on empty and then immediately drove over and filled up my car. Right after that my car was bouncing from 500-600 rpms consistently at idle...I gathered it did not mix well and was running mainly on the sea foam. After a day or so of really driving the car that issue had stopped and it was idling/driving normal.
Fast forward a few days to today and all of a sudden my CEL comes on. Also, when I come to a stop after a long drive my car decides to jump up to a 1200rpm idle. I let it sit there for a good 2-3 minutes and it will not come down. I've noticed before that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit it will get it to drop to its normal idle, but that is not working for this. Do you think all of this originates from running that sea foam or could it be a completely different issue? I just turned 62k miles and haven't had a single problem before this. It wont be until later this week when I can plug it in and check to see what codes it is throwing..
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I got a mkv R32 with 57k miles (DSG transmission) on it and the past few weeks ive been having some crazy issues. My car shuts off once in awhile when I come to a stop in traffic or at red lights. Last night it happen again I came to a red light and the car shut off, when I restarted it my idle was bouncing all over the place all the way up to 2500rpm and down to 1300rpm. Also, in addition to the idle every time i started pressing the gas the car would KICK like something was wrong with the transmission and a CEL came on. I ran the codes and it said MAF was at fault and I have had a MAF code again maybe a month ago.
I am thinking of replacing the MAF to see if it fixes the problem and I was wondering if it is a straight hardware swap or will i need to do some programming with a vag com?
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Came to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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1.8T Car only has 73k on it.? When I am sitting at a stop I can hear a vibration sound coming from the engine bay. It goes away as soon as RPMs hit about 2000. My best guess is old, worn out engine mounts.
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So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
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Have a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
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So I have a 2.0 jetta and I'm having this problem where my rpms fluctuate at idle and sometimes the car dies unless I give it gas.but when I'm driving if I'm not in gear and stop it sometimes dies.
I'm getting 5 codes : P0445, P0135, P0037, P0418, P1473
I checked all my grounds I changed the 02 sensor on the manifold checked for cut wires and nothing ...
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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My ICP is running low, 460 to 480 at idle and bouncing all over the place. It doesn't get above 2500 or so at WOT acceleration the ECM is throwing a "pending" DTC for low ICP. I removed the ICP regulator solenoid coil and cleaned the inside, filled the connector with dielectric grease and reconnected. That worked for a while but it's creeping down again. I'm going to pull the ICP regulator and clean and rebuild it as soon as I figure out how to do it w/o taking the whole HPOP assy off. How to determine if the root cause is the ICP reg. or the HPOP? Regulator duty cycle is running 15-20% at idle and less than 30% the rest of the time which makes me think it's the HPOP.
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A couple weeks ago I got a check engine light for the first time on my R, but before I could take it somewhere to get the code pulled, it went out on me. So I figure if it aint broke dont fix it. (FYI I have the flapper valve mod with the switch installed.)
Over the next few days the light would go on and off about once each time I drove it to work (about 45 min), and it seems to be associated with the flapper switch. The strange thing is that the light only comes on when I have been driving in "stock" mode for a while. Every time I leave the flapper open the light goes out after a while and seems to stay out.
I know "just leave the flapper open all the time!" which is what I've basically been doing, but still curious about what could be tripping the system.
Here's a pic...
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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Ok so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
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There's been a reoccurring squeak and click coming from my passenger side for a while now recently it has been a lot more consistent. For the longest while I'd thought it was my springs/swaybar or something generally just not being tight. Suffice to say I was surprised when I jacked up the front of my car to do an oil change today and happened to catch a glance to the rear while working under there. One of the four subframe bolts in the rear (passenger side, closest to the rear of car, not the one next to the control arms) is apparently no longer doing it's job.
The subframe was hanging free of the body there as though no bolt was there, but upon inspecting the bolt in the subframe itself it is torques to spec (74 lb/ft). So whatever it should be attaching to up in the car is apparently no longer doing it and if I feel around the back of the subframe and rubber bushing I can feel a nut that I suppose should be up in car to accept the thread of the bolt. The hole above the frame doesn't appear broken or deformed, what gives? I've never torques this bolt or removed it, I can only assume the damage was done to it long ago and has just been getting worse ( I've only had the car for a year now). Is there so kind of rivnut type action that I can insert up into the hole, do I need the dealer to fix this for me?
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During low speeds when I hit rough payment my steering wheel feels a little more bouncy than usual. Also I am hearing what sounds like a rattle in the front of the car. The steering feels tight otherwise.
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I just picked up a new GTI and noticed it was riding very firm and bouncing on the highway so I took it into the dealer and they forgot to remove the strut pucks. Even though the pucks are gone it's still bouncing pretty severely when on the highway especially when the concrete is just slightly wavy. I don't mind a slight firmness over cracks and bumps but the strong bouncing on certain roads is unbearable. I only rode with the pucks in for about 500 miles but had problems with it bouncing uncomfortably?
I hope that nothing is wrong with the suspension but if this is how all GTI's are then I might have to trade it in for a jetta or something.
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I just got home from work, opened my door and went to close it, it bounced back and did not shut. Tried it again, it would not close. Tried pushing the key fob lock/unlock, did not work. I looked at the lock and its closed, any fix for this issue?
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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