Golf V R32 :: Can't Close The Door Due To Thick Auxiliary Cable
Dec 23, 2008
My R has the aux input in the glove box. Connecting to my iPod works, but the cable I have is too fat/thick to let me close the door. Any nice, thin/flat audio connector that would work so I can close the glove box and leave the iPod out where I can control it? If I can find one I'd get a portable nav and connect it via its headphone jack for Bluetooth phone use.
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So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
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Last weekend, I was riding my Golf 2.0L when it started losing power, then a thick blueish white smoke started coming out from the engine all the way through the exhaust. Stopped the car on the side of the road and had it towed back home. I've looked for loss of any oil or coolant but the levels are ok. No mixed fluids from sight. I've had a check engine light for oxygen sensor for a year or so, but I've been told that would not be the problem. I started the car a few hours after it was towed home, it was now cool so the smoke wasn't as thick. The smoke doesn't smell like coolant fluid. I took out a spark plug and there was a bit of oil onto it too. My engine runs normally. People have been telling me to look for head gasket, valve cover gasket, engine head, etc. A week later, I still can't find what it could be.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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My, auxilary cooling fan isn't working. However, the bigger (primary) fan is working fine. Fuses, looks ok and i see clutch is engaging fine too. well, the a/c is working but not as it used to before. Its cold but very faintly. I suppose this could be because of the not working auxiliary fan.
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Every so often my rear cargo door handle is impossible to open. I can hear the lock mechanism lock/unlock but the handle won't compress to open the door. I had a mechanic get in it the other day by removing the inside panel. He states I need a new cable assembly. I have ordered one using our discount from Sewell. I have since come across a TSB about the actuator being an issue. I'm assuming my mechanic would know the difference. He said the cable is stretched and it makes the handle travel too far to engage. I'll try the cable at $35 delivered before the whole mechanism for $250 delivered.
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2002 sc 430--interior door latch cable is broken at the ball. Is it possible to (purchase and) replace just the cable or is the cable integrated with the locking mechanism, requiring replacement of the whole unit. Also, need to get just cable and/or integrated cable/lock mechanism.
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I have a 2007 jetta city with the single DIN radio (stock). I would like to have an aux input or usb input. I would like to know what would be the better option? (I don't want to go aftermarket). I know that there is a lot of option but I don't know witch one will work on my radio. (no pre-wired cd changer, no satellite).
Also, on the bottom right of the radio there is two kind of blank plugs (circle and rectangular). It looks like a usb and aux input would fit right there. I saw a picture in witch someone as the exact same radio but with a usb input (instead of the rectangular thing).
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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Some how my aux water pump wires got ripped out and I'm not sure if they shorted out. I pig tailed the wires on the pump and ran the car up to temp and turned car off and pump was not running. If the wires did or can short out what would I look for to replace (ie fuse, relay). Also I'm not sure which wire goes to what pin as the plug got ripped off. Wires are black red, and brown black.
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the fuel door on my 02 Camry LE won't close. I'm guessing that there's a bar missing from where the hole is on the right side of the fuel cap. Can this problem can be fixed by myself (I have some mechanical knowledge, which I reckon I won't need for this)? If so, what are the parts I need to get?
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe. The passenger front door does not close well. It needs a very firm push to latch completely. Regular push and it only catches first click and bounces partially open. I loosened the catch on the jamb, but it seems this is not adjustable.
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A couple days ago my wife could not close the fuel door after pumping. What is the official name of the latch that keeps the fuel door closed? Or better yet, a part number?
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The passenger door doesn't always want to close? It's being very finicky. Basically, every so often (with no regularity) it seems as though the door won't "catch" and close. If I pull but the interior handle, and/or exterior handle a few times it eventually gets there.
Like (probably most of you) I replaced the actuator, and even had to replace the window motor on this side, so I'm intimately familiar with the inner workings of these doors, and how everything has to be taken apart to do any work with them.
It's pretty annoying, and I'm worried the thing could just fly open while I'm on the road.
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The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
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Our car was rear-ended (we had a great shop to the repairs and the car drives/looks like it did pre-accident). However, the navigation door magically stopped working now that we have the car back. The navigation screen still works fine, but the open/cose buttons will not make the door/lid open.
On other threads I have searched here, people have suggested this could be from the door being off-track (not the case here), a broken motor (could be the case), and/or a blown fuse (also could be the case).
What fuse I would need to check if it is in fact a fuse? I've looked at the fuse boxes in the engine bay (by the battery) and in the trunk, but all fuses look fine. Is there anywhere else I should look for a fuse before wasting a day at the dealer to diagnose/fix the problem?
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This morning was freezing outside, went to work , unlock the car turn it on get in close. The door and slam!! Slam! Slam ! It won't closed! I had to drive with one hand on wheel other holding the door, after that notice when I lock the car from inside the door stay almost closed like it kind of locked but still open the just push it in trying to closed it and then it lock..
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As of recent my Drivers Door seems like dead weight and is very hard to close compared to my other doors. No accidents or hitting anything. I checked the hinges and they are fine and the door is lined up perfect. Door is not rubbing anything either when its closing. All seems to be normal from inspecting. All the other doors are just fine. If I push the door with light force it comes back toward me.
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Every so often, when I close the drivers door slowly, I get a groaning/creaking noise. I can't decide if it just needs to be lubricated, or the alignment has been hurt and needs adjusting.
2001 1.8t manual ....
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Every time I get out on the driver side and close the door I get a big shock. It's strong enough to make me scared to touch the door. Now I close the door by pushing on the window. How to fix it?
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