Golf V R32 :: CEL Flashing And Engine Stuttering?
Jan 18, 2012
I test drove a R32 today and had a question about a throttle hiccup. I tried searching but didn't come up with much...
I drove about 5 miles in traffic at 35-45 mph, eventually traffic cleared out, and the speed limit bumped up to 55. While accelerating from 40-55, probably half throttle opening, the cel started flashing and the engine began to stutter. I stopped the car, turned it off, and it started back up fine. On the way back, the situation repeated, but simply letting off the gas stopped it, and the cel stopped flashing.
Relevant info: 35 degrees F, 55k mileage, car behaved fine under small throttle openings. My best guess is the air flow or o2 sensors are gummed up from sitting at the dealership, but they're supposed to look at it and call me tomorrow. Does this sound like a common thing?
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So I have been APR K04 for about 3500 miles and recently noticed that when its cold in the am and my car is not yet warmed up if I give it a little gas in 1st through 3rd between 2k and 4k there is almost like a stuttering i can feel the car surge a little. my first thought is the tune is responsible, my second thought is that perhaps a coil pack has gone bad (although no CEL).
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2008 elantra, 57,500 miles (~92,500 kilometers)
While lightly accelerating or maintaining speed anywhere in the 20-50mph (30-80kph) range there's a slight jumpy or stuttering feeling. It feels like it's coming from the engine. It's not violent. Passengers don't notice. But it definitely doesn't feel right. It's kind of like a small succession of shakes that I can feel through the pedal. I've been trying to play with it to see when it does it. If you accelerate quickly through this range it won't do it and it actually feels really smooth. Outside of this range is also pretty smooth regardless of how quickly you accelerate. However if you accelerate slowly or just maintain speed or let your foot off the gas and lightly resume acceleration at any point in this range, the stuttering intermittently happens.
This is pretty annoying as 20-50mph is the speed I'm driving at most of the time (city/suburban driving).
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I have an APR Stage 1 flash done about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it and never had any issues.
I always leave my car in program two which is the 93 octane. I was driving home yesterday and when I was in the higher gears and accelerating in like 3rd or 4th and got the rpms up to 3500 to 4000 the car would stutter pretty hard. At one point it stuttered like 3 times in a row and then the check engine light blinked about 10 times and went away. When I got home I put the car back into stock mode and tried the same thing, but it ran smoothly with no issues.
Experienced this with the APR stage one flash. I'm thinking maybe it could be bad gas or the program didn't get set correctly, but not sure. I am going to put it back into the 93 program today and see if it still does the same thing.
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I own a 1999 VW Golf with 136+ thousand miles. We drive it mostly on surface streets and it runs fine. However, this past holiday we hopped on the expressway and as soon as we got above 55mph it started to stutter. It felt almost as if the spark plugs were misfiring. I've since given the spark plugs a once over and they look fine but I'm due for a tune up soon anyway and i intend to replace them. I can't feeling though that if the plugs are the problem, the car would be stuttering regardless of speed.
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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1.6 FSI .. Very long story short, the engine is running like crap, idle is jumping up and down. Almost no power, its stuttering and so on and so on. Well I talked to a mechanic and he found out the problem, a throttle vacuum. (kinda like choke) he explained it as.
The part was ordered, and arrived. Me and my dad tried changing it and we met some struggles. After looking at it closely and trying different things we kinda gave up.
Here is the part that is broken, it adjusts the amount of fuel when its cold vs. hot
We concluded we needed to take the whole intake to access it ?
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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The past two days when I went to warm up my car, when I got back in it to leave I noticed the engine coolant light flashing. I checked the book and it just says if its flashing to contact the dealer. I have already done so for my next maintenance anyway. It has been around 10 degrees out both times when i started it. 2012 GTI with 9300 miles. Also, if you turn the car off, and start it back up, it does not come back on..
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I have experienced an odd behavior once today & once yesterday, while driving my 2007 BMW X3 3.0. Each time, I was RAPIDLY pulling onto a busy street, from a side street...I accelerated fairly aggressively from the intersection, moving across lanes of oncoming traffic and into the main traffic lanes on the far side. My SUV was driving without any issues up until that point. As i accelerated, the car began to stutter (shudder?), and the 'Service Engine Soon" light came on instantly. The car continued to drive, but struggled to maintain speed/acceleration. I pulled over to a full stop as soon as I could, and turned the engine off. After a couple of minutes, I turned the car back on, and the diagnostic light was no longer on, and the car resumed driving normally as before. Why this sudden acceleration is causing the Service Engine light to come on, and this odd driving behavior?
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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So last night i was having some fun doing a wot pull from 2-5th and bam misfire p0301 code for cylinder 1. During the pulls i felt and noticed slight hesitation/stuttering around 5500-6100 rpms. When i let off it felt like cylinder1 was totally dead. Had a flashing cel + epc light come on, so i pull over turn the car off and now it won start. When you go to start it, it just continues to turn over, doesn't even sound like it's attempting to fire up. Feels like it doesn't have compression. There wasn't any loud out of the ordinary noise when this happened, other than the obvious misfire.
I had changed the coilpacks to the r8 red tops, and swapped out my plugs about 8k miles ago, so i doubt it's them. Did the HPFP around 15k miles ago, so i doubt it's that, plus i smell fuel while turning it over. If i had to guess i screwed up a valve. Maybe an injector best case scenario, but i dont think so. At the dealer now waiting to hear back from them sometime next week.
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When I was driving home from work today PRNDS started to flash and i stopped my car and turned the ignition off, when I tried to start my car again nothing happens, Engine is not starting and the PRNDS flashed on the mfd. I had my laptop with me and plugged in vag-com to see if the error codes was the same people gets when mechatronic is failing but they was different and car should start even with bad mech.
The error codes i get is:
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100001
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100010
28775 - No Communication with Gear Selector Module
U0103 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
Fault Status: 01100100
00194 - Ignition Key Removal Lock
008 - Implausible Signal
Fault Status: 01101000
My car is in my garage and I have checked all of the fuses and removed/replugged the main contact to my mech box.
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Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
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My 2008 Accent started to stutter between 1500 and 2500 rpms. Now the check engine light has come on, and the engine is idling rough.
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I was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
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Today I was driving and all of a sudden the car started to seem like it wasnt responding well when giving the gas. then the check engine light came on flashing. I pulled over to check in my manual and it says there is a malfunction with the CAT, it started to smell like eggs. now i remember reading once that the smell of eggs is a burnt cat, is this the problem or could it be only the sensor ? How much a new one goes for ? how about the cat, how much does that go for ? if it is my cat how does putting in a high flow cat sound? good or bad ?
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My check engine light just appeared like an hour ago. In idle, it sounds like a big flicking V8 Supercharged (I actually feel the car vibrating) and I need to give it a LOT of gas to start in 1st. When I turn the key, it takes a while to start. It is flicking weird. I am dropping my car first thing in the morning, but somebody got that so far?! And the last thing I did before getting the light is reversing in a parking lot and parking my car. I have my car since december.
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This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
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I have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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