Golf V R32 :: Bucking Between 500 - 1000 RPM While In 1st Gear
Oct 21, 2012
[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
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I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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I have a stick shift 2003 Ford Focus with close to 95k miles. Last week, the car started bucking at low RPM when it's in gear. It happens in all 5 gears, but less violent in the higher gears. To describe the bucking, imagine you're coming to a stop, and you forgot that you're still in fifth. That's kinda what it's like - as if it's ready to stall, but catches itself.
Since this doesn't happen when I'm in neutral or at higher RPMs, I'm guessing it's nothing to do with spark plugs or timing belts. Since it happens in ALL of the gears, I'm guessing it's not a gear going bad. My deductions leave me with the clutch.
I've had this car for a while, but I hadn't grown up with manual transmissions, so I don't know a ton about them. Also, I know that the clutch is more of an assembly, so I'm wondering what PART of the clutch may be going bad.
BTW, I'm also keeping in mind that the clutch may not be the issue at all, so fire away!
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
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When stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).
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Car started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
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So, this past Saturday, I was driving down the road at about 40mph when all of a sudden, the engine started to buck and violently shake the car. I immediately pull off the road and settled on a side street with engine still bucking. When I made the turn, I applied a bit of throttle to get it round and there was essentially no throttle, so I kind of coasted to a stop. It was the strangest thing. I let it sit for 10, turned the key, and the starter turned the engine over only to start bucking again. Immediately turned off the car.
Figured I'd program the car back to stock mode (have APR Stg 1 flash) and give it a shot. Except this time, the starter worked and the engine didn't turn over. Tried a few more time, but got the same result. Starter worked, engine didn't. Fast forward an hour and a half and a flatbed shows up to haul me to the dealer. Called the dealer today to find out they haven't been able to replicate the issue and there's no code. In fact, they actually got it to start and it's been idling for 30 mins. When the tow guy came out, he thought it might have been an issue with the car not getting fuel - which seemed like a possibility. But, the car has a full take of 93 oct in it.
Like I said, APR Stg 1 ecu flash and that's it. Has 31K mi. DSG. Funny thing was, a day before this all happened, I brought it in for a 30K check-up and there weren't any issues.
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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OK, I'm coming to the end of my first month of ownership. Have put on about 1,000 miles (need to drive this thing more - it's so much fun!)
Anyway, once the car is warmed up - I come to a traffic light and sit at idle. Idle starts off evenly at about 700 RPM. After a minute or so, it seems to jump up to about 1,000 RPM. Can feel it "pull" a little. After a bit of time at 1,000 RPM, it seems to drop back to 700 - but not all the time.
Mentioned it to the dealer and got a response like, "they have these things cammed". I don't think it's a cam issue. Just wondering if this is normal behavior or if there is an adjustment or part needed.
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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Title says it all. I was on my way to grab dinner, stopped at a light and heard it. At first, I thought it was a car next to me. Then it kept on going, and my CEL came on. I pulled over, shut off the car, popped the hood.
Temp normal, no smoke, restarted and watched the engine. Rough idle, and it appears to be bucking. Sounds like belt noise, not sure what is going on..
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
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