Golf V R32 :: Brakes Started To Shudder Each Time Touched Pedal
Jun 3, 2008
When my R32 had a little over 2000 miles on it I the brakes started to shudder each time I touched the brake pedal. Driving in the rain one day it was terrible because every mile or so when the brakes did the wiping the steering wheel would just shake. I took it in and they originally said I probably had rust on the brakes. The dealer ended up turning my rotors because they said they were warped pretty bad. After that the car was just fine for the next 1500 miles, then I slowly started to feel the shudder coming back when I brake. I am now at 4700 miles and it is as bad as it was before. I am taking it in for my first oil change Monday and told them to check my brakes again. I hope they do something because I don't want to run in every 2000 miles to have the rotors turned.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
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Brake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
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Starting yesterday, I have been experiencing a strange braking problem with my GTI. I leave my house, and then the first time I really have to use the brakes, it's like I have NO brakes. I push the pedal the normal amount, and I feel resistance in the pedal, but the car basically doesn't slow down. Then I press the pedal down HARD (don't want to run the stop sign at the bottom of the hill!) and then it slows down pretty quickly. After this first episode, the brakes are normal. Starting yesterday leaving work, it has done it to me three times in a row. It seems the car has to sit a while for this to happen.
Again, its not necessarily the first time I hit the brake pedal (my car is a manual) but it is the first time meaningful braking is needed. The car has 7k miles on it. When it started yesterday afternoon leaving work, as I pulled out, it felt like the brakes were stuck and abruptly released for a second, and it almost felt like the brakes were dragging slightly on the way home for a while. I do always use the handbrake, of course I release it fully. When I got to work, I checked all the brake rotors, they were all cool to the touch. How does the 'hill-holder' feature work (could it be messing up?)
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Went out to start my car today it had a rough time cranking over and when It started had a cel and in limp mode.
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Im having problems with my brakes mainly being pedal pressure. It's really really soft and has no bite till near the bottom which could be due to the res being low on fluid since both rear calipers seem to be leaking from the handbrake mechanism. When I got my car safetied they fixed my handbrake but I think they put the adjuster to tight cause I felt more rub then what I thought was normal but could be completely wrong. Not to mention this starting happening the day after I got it safetied
the handbrake bracket didn't retract like the other side but since then I loosened the compensator and pulled both side handbrake lines off and retracted the handbrake bracket by hand so now it looks like the right side.
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It happens quite often, when i start the car, and apply brakes, then there is some sort of knocking sound coming from the rear. It sounds like someone knocking on the door... But the sound will disappear after a while. The car drives fine, could it be the brakes?
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I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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My brakes started to squeal LOUD when I come to a turning stop. Although I don't hear it when I'm stopping going straight, it just makes a high pitch noise when I'm turning into a stop. Last time I went to the dealer, they blamed it on the brake dust... I only drove 300 miles since the last car wash.. it can't it the reason.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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My wife's 03 B5.5 with 130K has started to shudder really bad during all shifts, up or down.
The trans has never been serviced since that is what we were advised upon original purchase.
I've heard of valve body replacement and/or a service including a power flush. filter and screen cleaning might do the trick.
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So, a couple days ago, my car started to shudder a little bit and the check engine came on and started flashing. I pulled over and restarted it and it came back but then it went away. I tried to take it to Auto Zone the other day but for some reason my car wont communicate with their diagnostic computer. I read that its probably the coil packs but I want to be sure before I spend the money. I changed the spark plugs which were in desperate need of being replaced and it went away for a day and the CEL went off but it just came back today. I'm gonna try a different auto parts stores diagnostic computer before I give up on checking that.
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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I have a Phaeton W12. When I brake there is a slight shudder at most speeds unless I brake fairly hard, except when traveling at 120 km/h and 85km/h, at these speeds the shudder is severe uless I brake hard, but this could be that the car slows out of these 'bad speeds' quickly. The shudder is unnerving and severe enough to expect that it will cause damage. I did have the disks/rotors skimmed on a lathe, I thought this had fixed the problem, I can't be sure it didn't. All seemded fine initially, but I don't remember the speeds I was doing when I tested the skimmed disks for the first time.
To add to the fun, I brought with me when I moved countries and VW won't work on it before its registered locally and I need the brakes to be working to do so. Chicken and egg sort of problem. Parst are also not freely available here.
There is a rubber suspension bush in front which I noticed needs to be replaced, which I will order today, but it's likely to take a few weeks to get here unless it's used on an Audi or another car sold here, but it's the opposite front wheel which appears to have uneven wear on the disk.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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My daughter, after turning 16, has claimed our '07 with 170K as her own. Both my wife and daughter have been complaining that the car shudders when hitting the brakes.
For background, last fall, they heard a loud scraping noise coming from the front wheels, I decided that after 155K, it was time for a brake job. I pulled off the wheels and proceeded to swap the pads and rotors to discover that the scraping noise was coming from a rock caught between the hub and dust shield. Didn't really think about it prior to doing this, but this is a different beast when it comes to brakes and the pads still had plenty of life left on them. The piston on the right caliper refused to go back in to allow space for the new pads, so that needed to be replaced. Quite the frustrating job.
The brakes had been fine up until a month ago or so. I took it out for a test drive, but only detected a "shudder" when braking through about 20 mph. I didn't detect any pull in the brakes and the stopping power seems fine. They seem to experience something different than I do.
I plan on pulling the wheels off and having a closer look when our schedules allow. Is there anything in specific I should look for? The mechanical brakes kick in under 10 mph, correct? If the shuddering is happening above this speed, what in the regen braking system could cause this?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
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